Barrelling through Belgium

[cafemaestro]

With an exhibition to see in Dusseldorf the decision was:

1 day away flying Ryanair, hiring a car and driving 250 miles at a cost of £££

or

5 days away riding a GS across 5 countries for 1200 miles, visiting friends and family at a cost of £

Tough one!

So, Eurotunnel, Flanders fields, Brussels, Dusseldorf, Aachen, Luxembourg, the Ardennes and France it was !

First stop Ypres:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035907090/" title="_-5.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2744/4035907090_53f95d4ec7_o.jpg" width="531" height="800" alt="_-5.jpg" /></a>

Raining as usual...and they say Blighty is bad!

Ypres Cloth hall was very impressive - rebuilt after WW1 as was almost all of the town, but you'd never guess

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035154261/" title="_.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2465/4035154261_9fbfa07489_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_.jpg" /></a>

However the architecture pales into insignificance when you visit this...
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035180565/" title="_-53.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2671/4035180565_ec358ce6b6_o.jpg" width="531" height="800" alt="_-53.jpg" /></a>

As it says on the gate - all the names of the British missing in the Ypres salient are recorded here

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035902716/" title="_-2.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3540/4035902716_d63e9d1f44_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-2.jpg" /></a>

250,000 of them - and that's just the British - and that's just around Ypres

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035152063/" title="_-4.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2803/4035152063_b6472b5939_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-4.jpg" /></a>

The Menin Gate is huge and it is covered, and I mean covered, in names: inside and out on all four sides. It was heart wrenching - and these were just the missing!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035904212/" title="_-3.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2541/4035904212_7cdf96b0cd_o.jpg" width="531" height="800" alt="_-3.jpg" /></a>

 

[cafemaestro]

From Ypres it was on to Hill 60 - still raining

This was fought over for the whole of WW1. It was poxy hill made from the spoil when they were digging the neighbouring railway cutting.

See here: http://www.ww1battlefields.co.uk/flanders/hill60.html for a full history - well worth a read.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035153709/" title="_-6.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2433/4035153709_5bceb84ff6_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-6.jpg" /></a>

Unfortunately, by now I was a half drowned rat (you can understand how the battlefields could turn into mudpits). I was starting to run late so I packed the camera and dashed through Belgium for a night at friends in Brussels.

Next day was a big bakery exhibition in Dusseldorf. It was all motorways and not worth a photo until I arrived in Aachen for the night: Charlemagne's capital:

Town Hall:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035147243/" title="_-10.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2547/4035147243_ed819a70e8_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-10.jpg" /></a>

Cathedral:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035153973/" title="_-8.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2671/4035153973_c64b11f80e_o.jpg" width="531" height="800" alt="_-8.jpg" /></a>

With some of the biggest stained glass windows I'd ever seen:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035153887/" title="_-7.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2777/4035153887_072972e098_o.jpg" width="531" height="800" alt="_-7.jpg" /></a>

Germany's answer to crappy British High St. clones:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035147603/" title="_-11.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2652/4035147603_6276af5356_o.jpg" width="531" height="800" alt="_-11.jpg" /></a>

I saw this window and suddenly developed an insatiable desire for lebkuchen (bloody gorgeous gingerbread to you & me)

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035907894/" title="_-9.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2526/4035907894_84d6c0c7fe_o.jpg" width="531" height="800" alt="_-9.jpg" /></a>

 

[cafemaestro]

Barreling along through Belgium

Having eaten too much gingerbread I was fast becoming the barrel referred to in the title, so it was time to move on.

Stayed in Spa for the night - by the time I arrived it was too dark for photos and when I left it was too rainy.

So, next stop - the Ardennes

About 10km out of Spa I saw a sign"Grottes" As a big fan of Famous Five in Devon I'd always wanted to see some proper caves.

This is the place http://www.mondesauvage.be/grottes/fr/index.htm

It said 15Eur to get in so I asked if I could just pop my head in for a photo instead.

One gallic (or is it Belgic) shrug later I was in for free

As you can see, the caves weren't grotty at all.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035153573/" title="_-51.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2428/4035153573_7369e33131_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-51.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035901766/" title="_-13.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2542/4035901766_7ecea772d0_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-13.jpg" /></a>

You could even take a boat trip through them - not for me though. Too hard to swim in m/c boots and back protector!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035901884/" title="_-14.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2725/4035901884_89329e112f_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-14.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035901600/" title="_-12.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2748/4035901600_6bba27e187_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-12.jpg" /></a>

There was also a sign saying no photos, but I only saw it on the way out - honest!

Right! having wasted VRT, I did some of this:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035151425/" title="_-35.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2742/4035151425_3e16cc1e7d_o.jpg" width="531" height="800" alt="_-35.jpg" /></a>

And a bit of that:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035150087/" title="_-27.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2567/4035150087_2c930b56f7_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-27.jpg" /></a>

Until I got to here:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035148471/" title="_-16.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2650/4035148471_e6a9871fac_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-16.jpg" /></a>

La Roche-en-Ardennes: Very pretty and typical of the Ardennes. As you'll guess from the tanks, it featured in the Battle of the Bulge.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035902280/" title="_-17.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3482/4035902280_453620f6ed_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-17.jpg" /></a>

It had a typically "local" museum which was like museums I remember as a kid (no buttons to press or AV presentations, just unreal dummies dressed up) and lots and lots of stuff to look at:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035906692/" title="_-47.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3526/4035906692_dd901450a7_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-47.jpg" /></a>

There were three floors of this.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035902948/" title="_-21.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3493/4035902948_444eff538f_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-21.jpg" /></a>

Guns galore:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035903054/" title="_-22.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2423/4035903054_7e7b709979_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-22.jpg" /></a>

And then you get an exhibit like this - I'm not sure what part they played in the Battle of the Bulge - they weren't in the film!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035149123/" title="_-20.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3536/4035149123_9d21d3d99c_o.jpg" width="531" height="800" alt="_-20.jpg" /></a>

I think it's meant to be Churchill

 

[cafemaestro]

Having ordered half a poulet roti + frites for lunch, I am still unsure what exactly was served. It was pretty terrible so on seeing this:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035902520/" title="_-18.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2756/4035902520_b68ac4a859_o.jpg" width="531" height="800" alt="_-18.jpg" /></a>

I thought I'd pop in to ask for help with my digestion. The church was gutted in the Battle of the Bulge and they had this at the back of the church:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035153067/" title="_-48.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2554/4035153067_aa24dbaaaf_o.jpg" width="531" height="800" alt="_-48.jpg" /></a>

It was the original cross from the altar, all charred. Next to it was a sign that read: "Remember! I suffered this for you" - Quite poignant.

Because it was rebuilt, the church had modern stained glass windows which gave some fantastic light:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035148907/" title="_-19.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2575/4035148907_909052f7ae_o.jpg" width="531" height="800" alt="_-19.jpg" /></a>

So, having seen the light , it was time to hit the ....

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035150499/" title="_-29.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2467/4035150499_98ed36baed_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-29.jpg" /></a>

En route there was plenty of lovely roads and beautiful autumn scenery:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035152517/" title="_-43.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2709/4035152517_fec0b7c109_o.jpg" width="531" height="800" alt="_-43.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035903894/" title="_-28.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2734/4035903894_1b84bb165b_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-28.jpg" /></a>

 

[davidgibson999]

cool photos so far.

 

[cafemaestro]

Barrelling along through Belgium

Following Whatton's recommendation on this very site, I pootled on down to stay in Bouillon for the night.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035150905/" title="_-31.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2544/4035150905_95dd9226ab_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-31.jpg" /></a>

A very pretty place

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035153443/" title="_-50.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2626/4035153443_6155acccfb_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-50.jpg" /></a>

Geoffroy de Bouillon's castle (he led the first crusade and thus became quite famous)

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035148333/" title="_-15.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2694/4035148333_7e8d8a7b85_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-15.jpg" /></a>

From the front:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035150755/" title="_-30.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2712/4035150755_c464bea975_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-30.jpg" /></a>

I stayed in the Hotel Cosy and enjoyed my own Fawlty Towers experience:

Picture the scene: I arrive at the front desk in the twilight. No lights are on but there is a man half hidden by a stuffed hare (that happens to be holding a shotgun) behind the front desk.

"Excusez-moi Monsieur. Est-que vous avez une chambre?"

"Oui"

"Pour ce soir?"

"Oui"

"Pour une personne?"

"Oui"

"C'est combien?"

"Une chambre a deux personnes est 60Eur"

"Et une chambre pour une personne?"

"Oui"

"Parlez-vous anglais?"

"Oui"



"Right, can I have room for one person?"

"Oui"

"For tonight?"

"Oui"

"And how much would that be?"

"40 Euros"

"Right! Fine! Great! "

"But there's no breakfast"

AAAAAAAAHHHHHHH!

Sod it! Ok

I paid him and then he showed me to my room and disappeared! I never saw him again. !

Hotel Cosy apart, Bouillon was great. I had a great evening Chez Betty's with the locals playing cards. Whatton is spot on with suggesting this as a base for the Ardennes. Easy to reach from Calais and so many great roads you want to ride again and again.

Speaking of which:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035905608/" title="_-39.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2571/4035905608_01e3ce2461_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-39.jpg" /></a>

And lots of fine views:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035903428/" title="_-25.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2442/4035903428_1b4aaec532_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-25.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035904588/" title="_-32.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2689/4035904588_a4dcc0171d_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-32.jpg" /></a>

More to follow - my lunch break is up

 

[cafemaestro]

Barrelling along through Belgium

Right, I've just got time to sneak a few more photos in so....

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035903544/" title="_-26.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2672/4035903544_dc46035e1d_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-26.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035904738/" title="_-33.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3533/4035904738_d482f29240_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-33.jpg" /></a>

I just had to stop and enjoy the incredible quiet. And no, it was not because of a FPC failure.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035904906/" title="_-34.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2469/4035904906_a15a07b2e0_o.jpg" width="531" height="800" alt="_-34.jpg" /></a>

Who needs an Indian head massage when you can just sit and enjoy this

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035905480/" title="_-38.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2730/4035905480_f0a834133c_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-38.jpg" /></a>

So I did just sit and enjoy that... and this ....

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035151683/" title="_-37.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2629/4035151683_cee5f78f7c_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-37.jpg" /></a>

Whilst parked here for lunch

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035151549/" title="_-36.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2784/4035151549_de6f6145df_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-36.jpg" /></a>

After that it was off to Bastogne - well you have to really

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035903192/" title="_-23.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2686/4035903192_c8058356ca_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-23.jpg" /></a>

A pleasant coffee in the square and then off through the Maginot Line (not much to see, just woods).

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035903280/" title="_-24.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2435/4035903280_bd87e0ca89_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-24.jpg" /></a>

Still I did meet a local lass...

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035905814/" title="_-40.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2495/4035905814_ba1c13996d_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-40.jpg" /></a>

It's good stuff that Belgian beer! So I visited the Abbey where they make Chimay

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035906276/" title="_-44.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2506/4035906276_f6d2687a98_o.jpg" width="531" height="800" alt="_-44.jpg" /></a>

 

[cafemaestro]

Barrelling along through Belgium

After a stroll round the Abbe de Notre Dame de Stourmont, (which by the way was one of the tidiest places I have ever seen), it was onwards through some lovely twisty roads into France

More gorgeous Autumn clours (photo does not do them justice)

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035906048/" title="_-42.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3484/4035906048_93f526a6a6_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-42.jpg" /></a>

And some more great views:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035905950/" title="_-41.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2528/4035905950_97edf262f4_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-41.jpg" /></a>

Before it was another night at some more friends' and on to the homeward leg:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035164519/" title="_-52.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2699/4035164519_ae09cb049e_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-52.jpg" /></a>

The chap in the background, John - head chef at a hotel in Birmingham - had just ridden back from Monza on a '09 Fireblade through torrential rain with throwovers . He said the bike was fantastic!

He still had to warm his gloves on my cylinders tho'
And no there is no ! intended!

So, overall a really enjoyable trip. I heartily recommend the Ardennes for a short trip to Europe. It really is beautiful and the roads are just fantastic - Like Scotland with trees. If you go in the Autumn you get less traffic and fantastic colours, but some arse clenching wet leaf litter on hairpins

And finally a gratuitous photo of the bike. 1200 miles and absolutely faultless. A real joy to ride - especially with tunes on the zumo

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tombrucciani/4035906558/" title="_-46.jpg by cafemaestro_uk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2466/4035906558_0430115972_o.jpg" width="800" height="531" alt="_-46.jpg" /></a>

Hope you enjoyed the read.

 

[Stewart H]

Looks great, those Autumn colours come out pretty

Stewart

 

[wildernessrob]

Thanks for the write up Cafemaestro. Its always useful to read these trip reports to help get a feel for the area.

A group of us completed a not dissimilar trip a couple of years ago, and I always feel moved when visiting Ypers, The Menin Gate & Tyne Cott.

We stayed in a fairly functional campsite about 1/4 mile outside Bastogne, but did'nt have time to explore the area.

Im interested that you said that the Maginot Line is just a line of trees, as I had been suggesting that we could include it in a circular trip - Verdun - Maginot Line - Ypres?! I might have to review that plan

I like the look of Bouillon though.

 

[hondated]

Thanks...

Cafemaestro great read. 2010 cannot come fast enough so I can get back over to France

 

[jeffers]

guys, the maginot line is a fantastic sight to visit, it consists of a series of forts, some superb examples around verdun, fort douamont, fort fermont etc. i thinks its fermont where you ride the train a couple kliks underground, well worth a visit, been to the area 3 years running and going back next may.

great report though, may plan in the Ardennes

 

[BegesRus]

Good call making the trip

 

[cafemaestro]

Thanks for the write up Cafemaestro. Its always useful to read these trip reports to help get a feel for the area.

A group of us completed a not dissimilar trip a couple of years ago, and I always feel moved when visiting Ypers, The Menin Gate & Tyne Cott.

We stayed in a fairly functional campsite about 1/4 mile outside Bastogne, but did'nt have time to explore the area.

Im interested that you said that the Maginot Line is just a line of trees, as I had been suggesting that we could include it in a circular trip - Verdun - Maginot Line - Ypres?! I might have to review that plan

I like the look of Bouillon though.

guys, the maginot line is a fantastic sight to visit, it consists of a series of forts, some superb examples around verdun, fort douamont, fort fermont etc. i thinks its fermont where you ride the train a couple kliks underground, well worth a visit, been to the area 3 years running and going back next may.

great report though, may plan in the Ardennes

Gents, my apologies,

The Maginot Line is indeed worth a visit - but not where I visited it ! Although the main fortified areas of the line were around Verdun, the line actually stretched further north beyond the Ardennes. However, at these points if was more a series of defense lines & ditches. I rode through just south of Chimay in the Bois de Chimay. There any remains of the Maginot line were only really accessible on foot and in fairly dense woodland and consist of notceboards telling you what used to be there and the history of the line.

I would indeed recommend a visit further south nearer Verdun.

If you are planning the Ardennes - Bouillon really is a good starting point.and yes, it is definitely worth visiting.

 

[Michel110]

Hi folks, nice tour great picture ....

on the maginot question ....
I know it´s a bit out of the way when visiting the Ardennes but if you are interested in the Ligne- Maginot you have to visit Fort Hackenberg which is situated in France roundabout 30 KM southeast of Luxemburg.

http://www.maginot-hackenberg.com/



See the Ardennes fuel up cheap petrol in Luxemburg and visit hackenebrg. The Fort is that huge that you are transportetd by a little electric train inside ....

Living in the Cologne area I went many times on weekend trips to the Verdun battlefields and saw some of he WWI fortifications and Tunnels there .... but the Maginots Forts are much bigger ... and to visit the museum-forts much less dangerous
....

greets
michael

 

[peejay]

Good report and pics, thanks

Going back next year, want to take in the Ardennes, so now I have clues.

 

[Twotter]

Nice report. A visit to the Ardennes is definitely on my to-do list