Batteries

Miff said:
As long as the alternator is putting out more than the bike is actually using, then the extra will go into the battery. It might take longer to fully charge the battery, but it will still charge it.
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That's pretty much what I thought. :thumb2:thumb2
 
Both links to you to the same page! :blast

THIS is the link to the very comprehensive test of the Motobatt battery against others, including the Hawker Odyssey.

The fascinating test is where they used the batteries to start a V10 engined pickup. Both the Motobatt and Odyssey started one 25 times on the trot. They continued with the test and the Motobatt succeeded 50/50 times. The Odyssey achieved 45/50.

For a glass mat battery it's astonishng value for money.
 
Bendy toy said:
Lead acid battery is old technology (>100 years) and not very efficient for size or weight, but can kick out a heavy current so they have remained for starter batteries. Starting a 1200cc twin will really hammer the battery, hence the physically large model normally used on a GS. Cheaper batteries will work for a while but show the strain in reduced useful life.

Ballistic batteries are probably no better in power storage capacity, but being more efficient are much smaller and lighter. The main benefit is the high current kick. For me that's worth the extra money. For me, the small size is a bonus.

Of course they are not cheap, but given their long design life and small size, when my big Exide gives up (its now showing some strain) Ballistic will get my business.
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If you care to head over to advrider and search for lithium batteries you might change your mind. There are comments from battery experts and users that say these aren't ready yet for mainstream. It would also appear that the manufacturers are overstating their cranking power by a factor of 2 at least. Basically they are having to go 3 sizes up to even have a hope of starting the bike in cold weather or you have to heat the battery up. The plus side is the manufacturers are standing by their products (shora is anyway) with upgrades or refunds. Don't get me wrong, I know in optimal conditions lithium batteries can perform extremely well but with cold issues and the cells going out of balance I don't think they are worth the expense just yet and certainly don't seem to be equaling the promise .
 
Humbug said:
Both links to you to the same page! :blast

THIS is the link to the very comprehensive test of the Motobatt battery against others, including the Hawker Odyssey.

The fascinating test is where they used the batteries to start a V10 engined pickup. Both the Motobatt and Odyssey started one 25 times on the trot. They continued with the test and the Motobatt succeeded 50/50 times. The Odyssey achieved 45/50.

For a glass mat battery it's astonishng value for money.
Click to expand...

Really good testing and reporting, thanks for that.
 
Bendy toy said:
Lead acid battery is old technology (>100 years) and not very efficient for size or weight, but can kick out a heavy current so they have remained for starter batteries. Starting a 1200cc twin will really hammer the battery, hence the physically large model normally used on a GS. Cheaper batteries will work for a while but show the strain in reduced useful life.

Ballistic batteries are probably no better in power storage capacity, but being more efficient are much smaller and lighter. The main benefit is the high current kick. For me that's worth the extra money. For me, the small size is a bonus.

Of course they are not cheap, but given their long design life and small size, when my big Exide gives up (its now showing some strain) Ballistic will get my business.
Click to expand...

i am not convinced yet, they seem more fragile than lead acid and can be damaged severely by over charging or by going low voltage below a certain threshold, in other applications they have controllers that prevent these type of events happening

i have also seen advice not to use them in very hot climates

having said that let us all know how you get on !!
 
trainman said:
i am not convinced yet, they seem more fragile than lead acid and can be damaged severely by over charging or by going low voltage below a certain threshold, in other applications they have controllers that prevent these type of events happening

i have also seen advice not to use them in very hot climates

having said that let us all know how you get on !!
Click to expand...

I am going to assume that the Ballistic batteries are lithium iron so in their defence they are a lot tougher than what you have seen on the news lately. The batteries that made the news via Boeing and the 787 are lithium cobalt which are a different animal. They need very careful charging or catch fire. They are also a different voltage and really aren't suitable for a bike or cars charging system which will overcharge them. Lithium iron though are spot on voltage wise so the only problem and circuit you need extra is a form of cell balancing. This is circuit is contained in the case of the battery but the cells can still go out of whack and need an expensive charger to recover them.
Still not convinced by them though because of the cold performance problem.
 
Thanks for the new information on lithium iron batteries. Not to be confused with lithium ion which AFAIK are not the same.

The point about cold start with such as Ballistic batteries was they self heat when cranking. So in cold weather they turn better after a few seconds. Being dry they heat easily compared to water filled batteries.

Just thinking aloud, but this could mean that over sizing a battery could be the wrong option - less internal warming?

Ballistic claim a 10 year service life but only when their £40 balance charger is used regularly. They also say discharging too low will kill the battery. Presumably that's open circuit volts rather than under load. They don't seem to have a circuit to prevent that happening.

I read a USA review of these batteries against a good lead acid. However the ambient temperature was 50F. Hardly extreme and their lead acid was on a conditioning charger. no surprise they found no difference.
 
Your right, using the starter will heat the battery but while your doing that you are under powering the starter. This increases the strain on it which might shorten its life. Basically in the winter it could take 2 or 3 attempts to get it to start. Whether that will make a huge difference to its life or not I don't know. Others seem to recommend turning your lights on for 5 mins to wake up the battery instead. It's hardly turn key and go though in the cold.
 
On the other hand my GSA chunters in cold weather with the standard BMW Exide battery - 14AH so starter strain is there anyway. I cant easily find a firm spec for the cold cranking amps (CCA) but it seems to be around 200 for 5 seconds. Mine is almost certainly not making that much.

I've just looked the battery for a 1200cc Fiat Punto Mk2 - 40AH, 360CCA, weight 10Kg. That capacity makes sense with electric power steering, heater fan, heated window, etc. They have no reputation for poor cold starting (owner abuse of older Puntos excluded), but no surprise with 360CCA and pistons half the size. The pre-engaged starter looks very similar to the R1200 starter. Its no wimp.

It's no wonder the typical 14AH battery in many R1200 struggles. Its got two huge slugs to throw over with half the cold cranking power. This is why Im considering a Lithiun Iron. I just want a decent starting punch. Small size is a bonus but for the serious money I expect serious reliability.

This is what Wkipedia has to say (with all the usual caveats).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_iron_phosphate_battery
 
I assume everyone pulls in the clutch whist cranking the engine over?, saves turning over the gear box with all that thick cold oil if you don't, try it and see the difference. Taken from an old time V W hand book, and it works!.
 
This is review I was on about earlier.

Its by far not a very good test or comparison with lead acid technology but it's now been updated and has many user comments.
http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcy...i-ion-motorcycle-battery.htm#revised-terminal

By the way. The same reviewers originally slated the Shuberth C2 for noise and draughts (drafts). It turned out they hadn't bothered to read the instructions and were not aware of the visor's forward venting position. D'Oh!
 
Bendy toy said:
Lead acid battery is old technology (>100 years)
Click to expand...

So is the internal combustion engine.

Bendy toy said:
and not very efficient for size or weight
Click to expand...

Nor is the internal combustion engine.


Bendy toy said:
Of course they are not cheap, but given their long design life and small size, when my big Exide gives up (its now showing some strain) Ballistic will get my business.
Click to expand...

My OE Exide lasted 7 years. I replaced it with another Exide.
 
I've got a Suzuki TL1000S which I bought new in august 98. It has big pistons and probably a higher compression rate than the GSA, the original battery lasted 9 years.and about 55,000 miles, never on a trickle charger. Second battery is still going strong at nearly 6 years old now, it seems strange how.many people on here have battery trouble with the gs's.
Both me and the missus haven't had a problem with our gsa's in the the 5 years we've owned them.
 
Exide battery for £36

Exide make the OE batteries.

NewBattery.jpg


OldBattery.jpg
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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