Battery drain?

[t'other dave]

Now then, 2000, r1150gs, non abs and totally standard, has anybody got any ideas as to what might be slowly draining my battery? I'm on my 3rd battery Exide gel original lasted 7 years no problems at all but the 2nd n 3rd both become flat after 3 weeks without use, its ok in the summer but once the temps drop the battery is dead.
Cheers in advance, Dave

 

[Cortina]

First step - measure the loss (ammeter in line) ... how many amps or fractions of an amp is "something " drawing ??

get that answer , then one can apply some logic to it ...........

 

[warmshed]

Its the change from the original that seems strange. Have you recently fitted an alarm? alternative clock etc?

 

[Tinytim]

Hi Dave. Ya sure it's the batteries?

Initially, I thought I had a problem with battery drain the last couple of months.
New battery went the same way and MikeP then confirmed an inkling I had about the starter motor. Motor stripped and magnets all off. Result...in a twisted sorta way

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207984

Just a thought Dave.

 

[t'other dave]

Cheers chaps for replys, Firstly it had a new starter 2 poss 3 year ago Ive been through the starter magnet problem, but its not that. Next it is completly standard, no alarm, no extras, I will hopfully get time at weekend to have a mooch with my ampmeter (bike lives in unlite dark shed).
Dave.

 

[Boxergs]

worth checking?

I had a similar issue earlier this year, turned out to be a corroded terminal in the feed from alternator to battery under the tank, (front left side).

May be worth checking?

Some pics here,2nd page
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2776794#post2776794

 

[t'other dave]

Finally got round to having a mooch at the bike, The old battery is dead and a new one fitted. Started at 12.88 v and over 4 days it lost .02 a day to 12.82v. disconected it and it lost .02 over 3 days. The drain is .03 amps (multimeter between battery terminal and disconected lead). I'm not auto electricly keyed up and tried searching the net for acceptable drain levels does anyone on here know if these are ok readings. R1150gs totaly standard no alarms or extra gadgets.
Cheers Dave.

 

[I_S]

Keep the meter reading current from the battery then pull every fuse one at a time.

Does the current draw drop to 0.00A ?

 

[Packer]

As the temperature drops the battery isn't so efficient.
You may also be using lights more often in the winter.
The lower temperature means a heavier load when cranking the engine.
Poor battery connections, corrode earth points may mean the battery isn't getting charged as effectively.
Lastly, you may have a diode failing in the alternator which allows back leakage of current and can drain the battery.

 

[Trullion]

Keep the meter reading current from the battery then pull every fuse one at a time.

Does the current draw drop to 0.00A ?

I agree with this approach. I had a similar problem with my car battery flattening over maybe 10 ten days of non-use. By following this procedure I isolated the fault to a particular circuit, then traced it to the radio. FWIW the reading I got with the fuse in place was about 0.03amp. With the fault corrected the "dark" current drain is only 1 milliamp, the power to the immobiliser and radio.

Unless you have an immobiliser, which if the bike is totally standard you don't, the only current draw is probably the clock. The current used by this should be negligible. I would say that there is definitely an unusual current drain somewhere. Pull each fuse in turn until the current reduces, then see what that fuse controls and take it from there.

 

[I_S]

It may be that some electronic components are fed with power not passing through the fuse box. If removing the fuses doesn't stop the drain the next stage is separating connector blocks on the loom. There are a lot of connectors for switches & modules. Hopefully at some point the fault will disappear.

A lot of patience is required, good luck.

 

[tosh23]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0

Everything ya need ta know including draw and current....Tosh

 

[Sunny Jim]

Thanks for that Tosh - always been shy of the electrics but Eric makes it pretty clear - next purchase is a decent meter

 

[t'other dave]

Thanks guys, it seems that the clock (rid) takes the .02 amp drain with that fuse out it reads 00.00 , Today I have been told just the check the diodes in the alternator to make sure it is working correctly as a faulty one could draw currant.
Dave

 

[tosh23]

Your welcome Jim

 

[warmshed]

Thanks guys, it seems that the clock (rid) takes the .02 amp drain with that fuse out it reads 00.00 , Today I have been told just the check the diodes in the alternator to make sure it is working correctly as a faulty one could draw currant.
Dave

If you have checked that the current drops to zero with the clock disconnected its unlikely that the diodes are faulty, you would have had a drain if they were letting reverse voltage through so you have in fact tested them.

As you still have the problem then its over to checking the start circuit for continuity with no bad connections if you are sure the starter is fine.

 

[t'other dave]

If you have checked that the current drops to zero with the clock disconnected its unlikely that the diodes are faulty, you would have had a drain if they were letting reverse voltage through so you have in fact tested them.

As you still have the problem then its over to checking the start circuit for continuity with no bad connections if you are sure the starter is fine.

Thanks Warmshed, yeah starter is fine so Im taking it may just have been a faulty battery last time around or the way Ive charged it. I have been reading up about batteries. I don't use the bike as much as I used to with several hobbies trying to fit them all in around working 6 days a week, so it can sit for 3 weeks then do 350 miles then sit for another 3 weeks without a trickle charge.
Cheers chaps, Dave.

 

[AberdeenAngus]

0.03 Amps x 24hrs x 7 days x 3 weeks = approx 15 Amp/Hrs = frat battely

It seems a bit high for just the clock, but there you go.

Get a trickle charger or pop the lead off the battery when you store it.

 

[warmshed]

0.03 Amps x 24hrs x 7 days x 3 weeks = approx 15 Amp/Hrs = frat battely

It seems a bit high for just the clock, but there you go.

Get a trickle charger or pop the lead off the battery when you store it.

You have to add to that the self discharge of the battery and Gel lead acid has the highest self discharge of the lead acid series of batteries and tend to sulphate up easier if left at a low state of charge. This will tend to knacker the battery. trickle charger is the answer if you can get power to it.

 

[NeilDD]

A typical gel l/a battery will loose nearly 50% of its charge in a month if not charged.
Then add in your drain from the RID

So maybe 4-5 weeks before you have problems