I read that the Motobatt doesn't fit into the Stock R1150GS Battery Tray, is that correct?
I run a Motobatt on my HD and was looking at swapping the GS 's Varta for one.
Battery question ? (Yes another one)
- Thread starter boxintwins
- Start date
I read that the Motobatt doesn't fit into the Stock R1150GS Battery Tray, is that correct?
I run a Motobatt on my HD and was looking at swapping the GS 's Varta for one.
stuart kerr
Registered user
Any battery that is left for long periods of time will discharge. Optimate charger or similar is the way to go. A weak battery can also cause Abs system to behave lazily
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I've always had odyssey batteries, but this time went for the motobatt AGM. I'd say the Motobatt is better. The bike hasn't been used for 2 months and cranked straight up a couple of days ago for a ride out.
Same as the dishonorable gent above
re the Oydessy batteries.. And will order a mottobat about March as I don't know the history / age of the battery in my current GSA & for the sake of a few quid a fresh battery is in order..
I was away for a weekend do when my original battery died on my '03 1150GS. Rode to the nearest big town bought a Motobatt, fitted it at the roadside. Fitted straight in, no issues, rode back to the campsite. Cranked like a star.
The alarm will likely be the issue for the OP, if you want to have an alarm fitted and only use the bike occassionally it will need to be on a trickle charger. Buy a good one as a cheapie could do more harm than good if it over-charges.
The alarm will likely be the issue for the OP, if you want to have an alarm fitted and only use the bike occassionally it will need to be on a trickle charger. Buy a good one as a cheapie could do more harm than good if it over-charges.
Roger 04 RT
Registered user
The key to an AGM battery in an Oilhead is getting it fully charged. Our alternators keep them 80-90% charges in a lot of cases, which shorten their life.
The trickle charge voltage for AFMs is about 13.8V. That is about what our alternators put out. To charge quickly an AGM wants 14.8V.
There are three solutions to keeping an AGM fully charged: ride for a long time every trip, which trickle charges the battery to 100%; add a diode inside your alternator to boost its voltage to 14.7V; or charge your battery frequently with a proper AGM charger. I went the diode route. My battery is now 4 years old and good as new.
The trickle charge voltage for AFMs is about 13.8V. That is about what our alternators put out. To charge quickly an AGM wants 14.8V.
There are three solutions to keeping an AGM fully charged: ride for a long time every trip, which trickle charges the battery to 100%; add a diode inside your alternator to boost its voltage to 14.7V; or charge your battery frequently with a proper AGM charger. I went the diode route. My battery is now 4 years old and good as new.
Hmm.. that would explain when I put a multimeter on my battery to check its charging it doesnt go over 14v
Cheaper budget batteries
https://www.batteriesdirect.ie/magento/index.php/cp18-12.html
Do motobat and odyssey really supply twice the cranking power? For double the price? Really?
https://www.batteriesdirect.ie/magento/index.php/cp18-12.html
Do motobat and odyssey really supply twice the cranking power? For double the price? Really?
Is the motobatt twice the price? The odyssey probably is. Unibat is a decent make which I'd be happy to buy at that price.
Where did you get "twice the price"? The unibatt one you have given a link for, want 78 euros plus 5 euros postage thats 83 euros. Made in Italy that well known country for quality electrics?
A respected batterymake, motobatt can be had for £77 delivered. (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motobatt-...595076?hash=item19ee2528c4:g:Um8AAOxycgVTizSy) maybe cheaper if you look around..
The Odyssey one is around £79. delivered, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Odyssey-E...254470?hash=item4621b58346:g:dgQAAOSw0vBUfQ3f again maybe cheaper if you look around.
The claim for both is 20% extra cranking power over a gel or wet acid battery which is due to lower internal resistance that you get with AGM battery construction, not magic just fact.
20% seems more likely all right. I got double the price based on the link I posted. Not suggesting they are they best value place, it's just that I needed a battery quickly and it works well.
roger do you have instructions on what diode to get and where to place it in the alternator circuit
Roger 04 RT
Registered user
Here it is from another thread.
I got to the "diode" project over the weekend. The alternator is now charging at 14.75 volts. Many thanks to GSAddict for his valuable help, often on a moment's notice at the crack of dawn.
While the project seems a success, it is a bear of a job. At this point I can't say for certain that it won't be bad for the bulbs, or other electronics. Nor do I know for sure that the higher voltage won't be bad for the ABS or Motronic. I don't know that I've selected the best diode, and I don't know how long the diode will last. If the diode fails, the alternator will stop charging. (But often overloaded diodes short out in which case the alternator will operate but at its original voltage.)
The first time I reassembled, the diode interfered with the alternator body causing two internal pins on the voltage regulator to touch. This happened because I attempted to do the work without pulling the alternator. You really have to remove the alternator to do a good job, which I did the second time. (It would be better to find a voltage regulator that was adjustable or a higher voltage, then swap regulators. I haven't found one yet.) Removal of the ABS system takes a great deal of care.
RB
If I haven't scared you off from trying, and you're willing to take all the risk yourself, and you want to install a diode, here is a brief outline of what I did:
Step 1
Remove the alternator by removing:
-Seats, left and right fairing and fuel tank
-Alternator Belt Cover
-Battery
-ABS (requires bleeding all circuits afterward)
-Motronic
Step 2
Remove the Voltage Regulator from the Alternator by:
-Removing the black cover on the alternator
And then:
-Drill out the spot weld on the ground lug
-CAREFULLY remove Ground Lug. (Note in the photo below that I have started removing the ground and it is bent upward.)
-Save ground lug to shim the underside of the regulator when you reinstall it.
Step 3
Boost the Voltage by Adding:
-One NTE 5812 Diode in series with the internal ground
-Reinstall Vreg
-Reinstall Alternator
-Reinstall fuel tank and battery
-Test alternator output
Step 4
-Pull fuel tank and battery again
-Reinstall and Bleed ABS system
-Reinstall everything else
There are a lot of steps and skills needed for this project. It would be easy to do it wrong and cause serious damage. This outline and the photos should be sufficient if you have the right skill set to take this on. Otherwise, if you have an Odyssey PC680 battery and want to keep it 100% charged, consider charging your battery with an approved Odyssey charger every few weeks. Or at your next battery change consider a regular lead acid or Gel battery, both of which are fully charged with the standard alternator.
I got to the "diode" project over the weekend. The alternator is now charging at 14.75 volts. Many thanks to GSAddict for his valuable help, often on a moment's notice at the crack of dawn.
While the project seems a success, it is a bear of a job. At this point I can't say for certain that it won't be bad for the bulbs, or other electronics. Nor do I know for sure that the higher voltage won't be bad for the ABS or Motronic. I don't know that I've selected the best diode, and I don't know how long the diode will last. If the diode fails, the alternator will stop charging. (But often overloaded diodes short out in which case the alternator will operate but at its original voltage.)
The first time I reassembled, the diode interfered with the alternator body causing two internal pins on the voltage regulator to touch. This happened because I attempted to do the work without pulling the alternator. You really have to remove the alternator to do a good job, which I did the second time. (It would be better to find a voltage regulator that was adjustable or a higher voltage, then swap regulators. I haven't found one yet.) Removal of the ABS system takes a great deal of care.
RB
If I haven't scared you off from trying, and you're willing to take all the risk yourself, and you want to install a diode, here is a brief outline of what I did:
Step 1
Remove the alternator by removing:
-Seats, left and right fairing and fuel tank
-Alternator Belt Cover
-Battery
-ABS (requires bleeding all circuits afterward)
-Motronic
Step 2
Remove the Voltage Regulator from the Alternator by:
-Removing the black cover on the alternator
And then:
-Drill out the spot weld on the ground lug
-CAREFULLY remove Ground Lug. (Note in the photo below that I have started removing the ground and it is bent upward.)
-Save ground lug to shim the underside of the regulator when you reinstall it.
Step 3
Boost the Voltage by Adding:
-One NTE 5812 Diode in series with the internal ground
-Reinstall Vreg
-Reinstall Alternator
-Reinstall fuel tank and battery
-Test alternator output
Step 4
-Pull fuel tank and battery again
-Reinstall and Bleed ABS system
-Reinstall everything else
There are a lot of steps and skills needed for this project. It would be easy to do it wrong and cause serious damage. This outline and the photos should be sufficient if you have the right skill set to take this on. Otherwise, if you have an Odyssey PC680 battery and want to keep it 100% charged, consider charging your battery with an approved Odyssey charger every few weeks. Or at your next battery change consider a regular lead acid or Gel battery, both of which are fully charged with the standard alternator.
is there any battery last more than a few years in freezing weather conditions. My gel exide battery just died and it was only 2 years old. i only left my bike for 2 weeks without riding it and had no alarm or whatsoever . as it was on solar trickle charger but they don't help with the battery charge at all.
is motobatt any better than others or odysess stronger than exide.
is motobatt any better than others or odysess stronger than exide.
are you sure the battery is at fault? Batteries are often blamed when there is a problem with the charging circuit. If the solar charger was not charging the battery, was it in fact draining the battery? Did you try recovering the Exide battery with a proper charger after it went flat? In my experience, a decent quality battery will last for 6 or more years of the battery is maintained properly i.e. properly charged up before being left over winter - we often take shorter rides in autumn so the battery is partly discharged when we put the bike into winter hibernation. Give it a boost before hibernation. Unless there is a load such as an alarm, you don't need an Optimate or similar connected to the bike, just top it up once a month if not using the bike.
most probably the battery itself i believe. i checked it with voltmeter before starting and it showed me 12.08 and didn't turn the engine. i have no alarm nothing , i event take out the huber 3 fuse to avoid draining from the battery.
do you guys suggest me to buy a proper charger and charge it if it is gonna save it.
do you guys suggest me to buy a proper charger and charge it if it is gonna save it.
there is more to diagnosing the problem than checking the battery voltage - check http://www.batteryfaq.org/ which has a good process for identifying where to find the problem
moonhead911
Registered user
Here it is from another thread.
I got to the "diode" project over the weekend. The alternator is now charging at 14.75 volts. Many thanks to GSAddict for his valuable help, often on a moment's notice at the crack of dawn.
While the project seems a success, it is a bear of a job. At this point I can't say for certain that it won't be bad for the bulbs, or other electronics. Nor do I know for sure that the higher voltage won't be bad for the ABS or Motronic. I don't know that I've selected the best diode, and I don't know how long the diode will last. If the diode fails, the alternator will stop charging. (But often overloaded diodes short out in which case the alternator will operate but at its original voltage.)
The first time I reassembled, the diode interfered with the alternator body causing two internal pins on the voltage regulator to touch. This happened because I attempted to do the work without pulling the alternator. You really have to remove the alternator to do a good job, which I did the second time. (It would be better to find a voltage regulator that was adjustable or a higher voltage, then swap regulators. I haven't found one yet.) Removal of the ABS system takes a great deal of care.
RB
If I haven't scared you off from trying, and you're willing to take all the risk yourself, and you want to install a diode, here is a brief outline of what I did:
Step 1
Remove the alternator by removing:
-Seats, left and right fairing and fuel tank
-Alternator Belt Cover
-Battery
-ABS (requires bleeding all circuits afterward)
-Motronic
Step 2
Remove the Voltage Regulator from the Alternator by:
-Removing the black cover on the alternator
And then:
-Drill out the spot weld on the ground lug
-CAREFULLY remove Ground Lug. (Note in the photo below that I have started removing the ground and it is bent upward.)
-Save ground lug to shim the underside of the regulator when you reinstall it.
Step 3
Boost the Voltage by Adding:
-One NTE 5812 Diode in series with the internal ground
-Reinstall Vreg
-Reinstall Alternator
-Reinstall fuel tank and battery
-Test alternator output
Step 4
-Pull fuel tank and battery again
-Reinstall and Bleed ABS system
-Reinstall everything else
There are a lot of steps and skills needed for this project. It would be easy to do it wrong and cause serious damage. This outline and the photos should be sufficient if you have the right skill set to take this on. Otherwise, if you have an Odyssey PC680 battery and want to keep it 100% charged, consider charging your battery with an approved Odyssey charger every few weeks. Or at your next battery change consider a regular lead acid or Gel battery, both of which are fully charged with the standard alternator.
hi roger i have just fitted a new regulator rated at 14.5v it was a straight swap on my 1150 gs my bike is now charging about 14.5v to 14.6v max and about 13.8 on the ignition read out from my gs 911 the only problem i have is that i hear the fuel pump. pumping quicker or it sounds loader will this cause a problem long term
thanks
