Battery voltage

[Doc]

Have bike on a ctek charger and when I put ignition on it got a warning saying battery was low. Charger wasn't showing up any issues and showing fully charged.
Battery is showing 12.3v after putting ignition on. Is that about normal ?


Cheers Doc

 

[NeilDD]

Engine off with a light load that's acceptable
What you need to do if you have a multimeter is to monitor the voltage during an engine start, The voltage will drop a little, but it shouldn't drop ideally below 11V
If it does it means a loss of capacity and the battery is on its way out

 

[Doc]

Cheers Neil.
It's a big old tank to turn over so that's why I was asking.

 

[Guru Gora]

12.3 is ok.

As above, the dip on starting is important.

Get a helper if you can, way easier than trying to hold 2 prongs and hit the starter

 

[Guru Gora]

 

[Doc]

Suppose it would help if I had one.

 

[ChasF]

It’s at the low end of OK which is probably why the electronics on the bike flags it up as low. If the bike starts well enough (cranks over at a normal speed) then I wouldn’t worry about it. I don’t have much faith in battery conditioners and prefer to chage each bike separately a couple of times through the winter which is a bit of a faff but works for me.

 

[NeilDD]

Have a look in Aldi or Lidl
They often do multimeters for around a £5
Not bad and will do what you want for keeping bikes going

 

[Guru Gora]

IndoTeam Digital Multimeter Tester - Voltmeter Ohmmeter Ammeter Multi Voltage Tester Meter with Backlit LCD Electronic Test Meter - Voltage Testers measures Voltage, Current, Resistance, Diode https://amzn.eu/d/08jWe0SL

 

[Guru Gora]

Next day 7 quid, order whilst in slippers

 

[Blue]

RV Tech Library - Battery Charge Voltage

 

[wessie]

I would not completely trust the readout on the dash. Get a multimeter out and check the battery at the terminals with the ignition off and on.

Have you fitted any device to the bike that is powered when the ignition is off? Satnav cradle and phone chargers direct to the battery are the usual offenders after security devices.

 

[Doc]

I would not completely trust the readout on the dash. Get a multimeter out and check the battery at the terminals with the ignition off and on.

Have you fitted any device to the bike that is powered when the ignition is off? Satnav cradle and phone chargers direct to the battery are the usual offenders after security devices.

Phone charger usb Wessie. Wouldn't have thought that would draw anything unless Phone plugged in but I'm not a electric wizard when it comes to this stuff.

 

[wessie]

Phone charger usb Wessie. Wouldn't have thought that would draw anything unless Phone plugged in but I'm not a electric wizard when it comes to this stuff.

they can draw up to half a watt but if the Ctek is working properly, it should compensate for any drain.

check the battery voltage with a proper meter before worrying about anything!

 

[Doc]

Ordered one.

 

[fatbaldbob]

Doc; see below for Challenger battery.

• Fully Charged: 12.8 volts.
• Maintenance Required: Below 12.5 volts.
• Starting Issues: If your bike is below 12.6 volts, you may experience difficulty starting.
• Running Voltage: Once the engine is running, the charging system should typically maintain between 13.8 and 14.3 volts.

Your battery could potentially be on the way out, but before replacing it I would check battery and earth to frame connections are tight, common issue on the TS bikes I know yours is a PP but worth ruling out.

Also RC tends to throw a load of chassis related fault codes too if battery is low.

Regarding auxiliary equipment you have added, I trust you are aware that Indian provides a number of switched live connections for you to connect to so you do not have to connect direct to the battery?

There was also a recall to rectify a parasitic draw that affected some bikes, worth getting a dealer to check if yours is one that’s been affected, I believe the fix is a software update.

There are YouTube videos on this subject specific to the Challenger too also do a search on that other forum and you will find loads of info ref this.

 

[Doc]

Thanks Bob. Didn't know about the switched live connections.

 

[squibb34]

A multi meter will give some idea of battery health, but it's the progressive loss of cold cranking amps due to degradation, that is the ultimate concern.

It's a right PITA if the bike says 'no thanks' when you hit the button, so I always think that, if in any doubt, get the battery tested for CCA. Sh1t usually happens at the most inconvenient moments; it's the law.

 

[Doc]

A multi meter will give some idea of battery health, but it's the progressive loss of cold cranking amps due to degradation, that is the ultimate concern.

It's a right PITA if the bike says 'no thanks' when you hit the button, so I always think that, if in any doubt, get the battery tested for CCA. Sh1t usually happens at the most inconvenient moments; it's the law.

Yup i will test the battery but going to buy a new one anyway. Bike going for a service soon so i will get them to check what Bob mentioned.
Got one of these on the Harley after a recommendation on here.

https://www.motoelectrical.co.uk/product/mbtx20u-motobatt-12v-21ah-copy/

 

[fatbaldbob]

Yup i will test the battery but going to buy a new one anyway. Bike going for a service soon so i will get them to check what Bob mentioned.

Doc, whatever you do, do not buy the battery from Indian, you will pay 3x price.

The battery has an Indian part number on it, just ignore that, look for the manufacturers part number Yuasa on most Indians. Use this number to buy the right item from a motor factor. I bought my last one from Halfords for a fraction of the Indian price. It’s the exact same battery without the Indian info stamped on it.