Beak Removal

Old Codger

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Hi
havent looked closely yet. Have an 1150gs How easy is the beak removal to fit an oil cooler guard and do I have to remove the indicators first?
thanks in anticipation Frank
 
You don't need to remove the beak.

Remove screen (unless you have Tobinators fitted in which case mark the position carefully then just loosen it off and tilt it back)

Remove silver moulded plate

slot coooler cover in carefully

refit cover
refit screen

If you're a bit cack handed, stick a line of masking tape across the beak butting up to where the bottom edge of the grille will be ..the grilles can have sharp edges and it is fairly easy to scratch the beak.

HTH.....but if you do have Tobinators, take a lot of care to mark the position they're in so you can get back to it without having to go through all that buuffet, tweak, ride, buffet, tweak, ride, buffet, tweak, ride, buffet, tweak, ride, buffet, tweak bit :D
 
PS before you start, lay a soft blanket on the ground well away from the bike to put the screen on...and shut the dog in the house ;)
 
Codge......


Depends which oil cooler grill mate.

You can do it the way Fanum says for the thinner ones like Reyno`s or the Wunderlich one but if it`s the Touratat one its better to remove the beak `cos its a bit fatter in profile and you can`t just slide it in as you`d like.. :o .

If you need to remove the Beak it is real easy and yes if i remember correctly you do need to undo the winkicators but its all fairly straight forward except.......the feckin little screw inside the Beak....with my Babboon hands it was a tight squeeze. if you use an extension 1/4, go at it from the opposite side of the handlebars.... :thumb

Hope that helps.
BB
 
PS....


Take your time with those little feckers inside `cos they only go into plastic and if you get `em cross threaded it aint good...... ;)
 
thanks

Thanks Guys

its toura-tat so beaks coming off just waiting for stiebel horn from nippys so ill do that at the same time.
Im on the accessories gravy train already Help !!!!
Frank
 
OK Codge....


I have put one 0` those on my ADV so if you need owt else just giz a shout.. :)

If you can I would mount the horn so that any water from either weather or washing the bike runs out of the hooter. I think that Dahoum even drilled a hole in his to stop it getting full o` watter.
I made a small bracket out of the supplied bits o` tin in the hooter kit. my hooter now sits vertical with the trumpet bit pointing down.

Which Hooter you ordered....?
 
Bronco my horn is

Bronco

The horn is the Stebel Magnum 136db the small round one Have fitted them on other bm bikes Enough grunt easy to fit into existing wiring and no faffing about with relays. Small and fits into existing space
Yuk sounds like an advert
Frank
 
Yep.....same as mine.

I fitted mine flat for a start but if it gets watter in it, it sounds like a duck farting.

Just rotate the hooter so that when you mount it any watter just runs out.

If you need I could post a picture.........its dead easy to do mate... ;)
 
Heres how I positioned mine mate..........
 

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This will hopefully be a useful guide for anyone needing to remove the beak on an 1150GSA, for example if you need to replace an oil cooler pipe......

First up, it is not as bad as it looks you just need to be methodical so here goes....

1. Remove the yellow glass from the indicators and carefuly disconnect the spade terminals on each. It does not seem to matter which way round you put the spades back so don't worry too much.

2. Remove the spotlights if fitted.

3. Remove the screen and the console cover.

4. Remove the headlight cover, undo the three studs holding the headlights in place and use a large flathead screwdriver to carefully lift the headlight unit off the adjustment ball (bottom right, white plastic as you look into the headlights). Disconnect the wires from the headlights and put them somewhere safe.

5. Disconnect the console (one bolt and two prongs in white rubber washers) and rest it gently on the handlebars. Don't try to disconnect anything from the console itself, that path leads to perdition.

6. There are two torx bolts under where the back of the headlights used to be, undo them.

7. There are two torx bolts next to the indicator units, undo them.

8. Have a cuppa and calm your nerves. Buy a newspaper, referrably a broadsheet and a pack of imperial mints. Ideally do this on a Sunday.

9. There are two torx bolts holding the beak to the plastic frame that holds the headlights and console (at 90 degrees to the orientation of the bike, deeply recessed on one side). If you are lucky they will simply undo. If you are unlucky some f**king prick has put thread lock on the bolds and the brass inserts in the plastic of the beak are now twisting, stopping you from removing the bloody thing.

10. Have another cuppa and a sneaky fag even though you gave up years ago.

11. Try Clamping the plastic to grip the plastic onto the brass inserts.

12. That won't work.

13. Call a mate who will advise you to buy a Jap bike next time.

14. Have a coffee and trawl UKGSer until you find this post.

15. Relax, it'll all be OK.

16. Undo the indicator units by undoing the large nut on the inside. Pull the wires through and tuck them behind the forks.

17. Shoogle (wiggle) the beak a little and gently open the beak so it pops off the brass insert on one side. Do the same on the other side and the beak will come off.

18. The oil cooler is now exposed. Undo one of the pipe clamps and pop a pipe off and the plastic headlight/console unit comes free.

19. Have another cuppa and sneaky fag. Call your mate back and tell him to stick his rice burner up his fundament.

20. Realise that to remove the pipe you need to drain the sump. To drain the sump you need to remove the sump guard. The deck is covered is sh1t but fortunately you have a newspaper to hand (see step 8), remove the sump guard (six bolts, two biggies four wee). Undo the sump bolt and watch as your oil pishes everywhere (unless you have a container to hand). DO NOT keep your helmet to hand. They leak.

22. Remove the front crash bar and lower half of the crash bar on the LHS of the bike (for the oil cooler outlet pipe removal).

23. Remove the six bolts from the alternator cover plate/oil cooler holding plate.

24. Undo the banjo bolt at the bottom of the oil cooler pipe.

25. The pipe needs to go up first, a bit of juggling then it will come out going downwards.

26. Clean up all removed components. Braise the pipe if there are any cracks. Paint it with black enamel. Feel smug. It won't last.

27. Remove the torx screw and brass inserts from the bike frame and use a thread cutter to remove any threadlock from the inside of the inserts. Carefully glue them back into the beak. Gorrilla glue is ideal.

28. Your mate will turn up at this point on his bike, try to look calm amidst the chaos around you. Also, you will need his help to get the beak back on as someone needs to hold it while the other puts ths bolts in. Try not to piss him off.

The refit is the reverse of the removal. Be liberal with copperslip, count your bolts back in and make sure the right ones go in the right place.

Have an imperial mint to cover up your fag breath (see step 8). Light a small bonfire, burn your oil soaked newspaper and your filthy copy of the Haynes manual (with foreword by Roald Dahl and The Brothers Grim with commentary on the importance of the modern fairy tale).

Job done.
 


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