Bike not starting in gear

DaveTez

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Had the 2016 GS LC MOT’d yesterday (passed) Tech commented there’s an issue that the bike won’t start in gear. I had noticed this but not being a big issue have always selected N to start. Is this a common thing on GS’s?
 
I always start in gear. You have a problem.
 
Had the 2016 GS LC MOT’d yesterday (passed) Tech commented there’s an issue that the bike won’t start in gear. I had noticed this but not being a big issue have always selected N to start. Is this a common thing on GS’s?
I'm guessing you mean in gear with the clutch pulled in?
 
Sounds like the clutch switch isn't being activated. Or it's the side stand switch.
 
Sounds like the clutch switch isn't being activated. Or it's the side stand switch.
Exactly what i was thinking.

The clutch has 2 microswitches, sometimes you can hear them if you listen close with the bike off and pull the clutch in slowly.

There is a switch in the side stand too, it may be that your bike permanently thinks your stand is down.
But I would have thought if it was that, it would cut out when you put it in gear?
Im not with bike ATM, so cant check that theory.
 
Exactly what i was thinking.

The clutch has 2 microswitches, sometimes you can hear them if you listen close with the bike off and pull the clutch in slowly.

There is a switch in the side stand too, it may be that your bike permanently thinks your stand is down.
But I would have thought if it was that, it would cut out when you put it in gear?
Im not with bike ATM, so cant check that theory.
The side stand inhibit is working correctly ie engine cuts if side stand extended with bike in gear, it’s just that it won’t start while in gear (yes with clutch pulled Bravo)
Has anyone successfully cleaned or replaced the clutch micro switch, easy job? Dealer job? Cost etc etc please.
 
Try adjusting the span on the clutch lever, I have small hands and if I adjusted the span too much it caused the issue you have.
Al.
 
Eazy Job, but take the lever off before you do anything else. It could be the little actuator lobe that's broken or misaligned. Once you have the lever off you'll see the switch and how the lobe should be contacting it. Give you a better idea of what's needed.
 
Hardly, the forums are rife with reports of failed BMW clutch switches.

That being said the AliExpress switches are the same "quality" and equally prone to failure but at a fraction of BMW's outrageous price.
I actually agree with this
 
Very simple fix, Just remove the micro switch (one small torx screw ) and bend both small leavers a tad. One is for cruise control tother is clutch switch. Replace and all sorted 5 min job. Did it two days ago.
 
Haven’t had a go yet but there’s quite a few YouTube vids available & switches are £60 from Motorworks uk or £23 AliExpress
32 72 8 537 609 part number
 
Last edited:
Very simple fix, Just remove the micro switch (one small torx screw ) and bend both small leavers a tad. One is for cruise control tother is clutch switch. Replace and all sorted 5 min job. Did it two days ago.
If you hear the 2 clicks when pulling in the lever then this is not the answer.

A common issue is that the contact resistance becomes too high for the ECU to recognize it as a closure.
 
No need to take lever off! It's 1 wee torx screw .......... remove said screw, take off switch, bend contacts, replace sorted 5 Minutes max

Loads of vids on YouTube
 
If you hear the 2 clicks when pulling in the lever then this is not the answer.

A common issue is that the contact resistance becomes too high for the ECU to recognize it as a closure.
Now fixed, new switch from BMW sorted it, guessing contact resistance as you explained was the issue, could definitely hear both clicks on the faulty switch as the contacts were made. 👍🏻
 
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Now fixed, new switch from BMW sorted it, guessing contact resistance as you explained was the issue, could definitely hear both clicks on the faulty switch as the contacts were made. 👍🏻
Good to hear that it's sorted. If you are so inclined measure the resistance of the contacts.
 


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