Bike wont start – suspected Hall Senor failure R1150 Twinspark

[DrAlf]

OK here’s the problem. R1150 twin spark 03 starts to miss at above 5000rpm. Hardly noticeable at first but it got to the point where it would randomly cut out above 5000rpm. Up -changing or down-changing brought it back to life. Fuel pump noise is a higher pitched than normal. Limped home from Llangollen last weekend, searched the forums and discovered possible coil pack problem. Bought x2 new coil packs. Replaced them both and bike would hardly start, when it did it would run on one cylinder and immediately conk out at idle. Changing the coil packs back, bike runs on one then conks out. Only one down-pipe gets hot. If I pull out both coil packs and just run on the secondary plugs – same symptoms. All spark plugs appear to spark when placed on cylinder heads (i.e. not under compression).

I suspect hall senor failure – I’ve sprayed WD40 in all the hall sensor wiring loom connectors but same symptoms.

Am I on the right lines here? Has this happened to anyone else before? Anyone got a hall sensor they’d like to sell me?

As always, thanks in advance

 

[Stewart H]

Do you have water in your fuel?
Stewart

 

[DrAlf]

Do you have water in your fuel?
Stewart

Don’t know – how do I find out

As discussed at Llangollen, I found some dryfuel and dumped it into the tank on the way home……

 

[sockpuppet]

Take the injectors out and get them to fire into a jar. If there is water in it you'll see.

 

[DrAlf]

Thanks No fuel on the right hand injector whatsoever when cranked over. Left injector shoots fuel. Fuel contains bubbles. Any ideas

 

[Stewart H]

Blocked fuel filter due to water? chuck a bottle of "dry fuel" in there see if the fuel pump quietens down.
Stewart

 

[Colban]

Thanks No fuel on the right hand injector whatsoever when cranked over. Left injector shoots fuel. Fuel contains bubbles. Any ideas

Try swapping injectors over-see if the fault moves.

 

[bardicastle]

Blocked fuel filter due to water? chuck a bottle of "dry fuel" in there see if the fuel pump quietens down.
Stewart

Sorry to butt in but what's "dry fuel"

 

[Pukmeister]

Wynns dry fuel, its a product made by Wynns, designed to remove water from your fuel tank and clean the fuel system. Mainly used on carburetted engined bikes in winter to alleviate the symptoms of carb icing.

Another similar product from Silkolene is ProFST.

 

[DrAlf]

Thanks for the help so far Pulled both injectors this morning, now neither of them appear to be firing at all. Fuel pump primes – I assume that the injectors are supposed to fire when the pump primes? Injectors don’t fire at all on start up or cranking. If I disconnect that QD’s a small amount of fuel pours out. Guessing fuel pump is working

What next – any ideas

 

[argos]

sometimes the OE hose clips insde tank come loose,you lose fuel pressure as it just squirts into tank,i would get a new tank o ring,fuel filter and 4 13mm hose clamps and test it off the bike then take it from there.cheers ps iwould also move filter outside tank.buy 6 inch of injector hose thats designed to be immersed and 2 more 13mm hose clamps and a transparent car filter,believe there is a thread on here on how to do it

 

[DrFarkoff]

OK here’s the problem. R1150 twin spark 03 starts to miss at above 5000rpm. Hardly noticeable at first but it got to the point where it would randomly cut out above 5000rpm. Up -changing or down-changing brought it back to life. Fuel pump noise is a higher pitched than normal. Limped home from Llangollen last weekend, searched the forums and discovered possible coil pack problem. Bought x2 new coil packs. Replaced them both and bike would hardly start, when it did it would run on one cylinder and immediately conk out at idle. Changing the coil packs back, bike runs on one then conks out. Only one down-pipe gets hot. If I pull out both coil packs and just run on the secondary plugs – same symptoms. All spark plugs appear to spark when placed on cylinder heads (i.e. not under compression).

I suspect hall senor failure – I’ve sprayed WD40 in all the hall sensor wiring loom connectors but same symptoms.

Am I on the right lines here? Has this happened to anyone else before? Anyone got a hall sensor they’d like to sell me?

As always, thanks in advance

I hate to ask but did you lift the tank off? And possibly dislodge the throttle cable in it's holder?

Hall sensor things are wierd BY the way IF you THINK you have HES failure

MAKE SURE AND TURN THE IGNITION OFF BEFORE you handle a sparkplug!!

I found out that the reason the HES fail is usually a break down in the insulation which can be intermittent

Intermittent enough to cause 20 seconds of sparks just as I was replacing a sparkplug that the spark looked a bit weak on! Feckin wasn't weak at all when the fecker started sparking in me mitt and me not touched starter button or feck all else

 

[DrAlf]

Thanks all PM suggested that I turn the rear wheel with ignition on – fuel pump primes when the wheel is cranked so it can’t be the hall sensor. As above, now suspect fuel pump again. Have had the tank off loads trying to diagnose the problem but have checked the throttle cables are seated correctly – it’s routine habit, been caught out before

Looks like I’m going to have to take the internals out of the tank and check them over - got an almost full tank of fuel too

 

[DrAlf]

Fixed It turned out to be the coil packs that were causing the original problem. What I failed to mention in my earlier posts is that I have a power commander fitted to my bike. When I was initially looking for the cause of the problem I had disconnected the power commander and cleaned the connectors. I then refitted the power commander and replaced the coil packs. As it turns out, the connectors on the power commander can actually be connected the wrong way round. This stops the bike from running. Guess which way I had fitted them

Thanks for your help Bike now running, just in time to go back to work