Bike won't start in gear

DevonAl

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As the title, in the handbook it say's that you can switch on the ignition and then pull the clutch in, then start the bike with it in gear. I can't do that on my bike, I'm assuming there is a switch of some description on the clutch, is this a common fault? No problem starting in neutral.

Al.
 
Yes it means your clutch switch is either knackered or you have your lever too close to the bar to activate it. Some after-market levers can be adjusted more than stock. If you can hear it "click" when you pull the clutch in then it is probably faulty. I had mine replaced I think about £60 - £70 or thereabouts from the dealers. If it does not click, maybe the lever is too close or the switch needs moving - you can move them a bit I think there is a small hex screw underneath.
 
The clutch switch is adjustable. Yours is obviously out of adjustment.
 
Thanks for the replies, lever is adjusted for my titchy fingers so it may need tweaking a bit, job for tonight.

Al.
 
Thanks for the replies, lever is adjusted for my titchy fingers so it may need tweaking a bit, job for tonight.

Al.

If the lever is adjusted to suit you for comfort reasons , why don't you just put the bike into neutral and start it there ? Like most riders would ?
 
If the lever is adjusted to suit you for comfort reasons , why don't you just put the bike into neutral and start it there ? Like most riders would ?

Whilst I agree with what you said in principle, not so easy in practice at times, when my switch was playing up, I got caught out a couple of times, stalled at lights and a faff trying to get neutral with cars behind impatiently trying to accelerate up your arse.
Also when off road in a precarious position it was almost impossible sometimes to lift my left foot to get neutral to restart, if the switch was working it would have been easy, I replaced mine in the end,
 
The grub screw for switch is tiny and is on the under side of the lever mount, very easy to lose DAMHIK ��
 
Thanks for the replies, lever is adjusted for my titchy fingers so it may need tweaking a bit, job for tonight.

Al.

The lever adjustment or span has nothing to do with the clutch switch adjustment - they're completely seperate issues.
 
The lever adjustment or span has nothing to do with the clutch switch adjustment - they're completely seperate issues.

They are separate but related. I have the clutch switch as far left as it will go, with my levers on settings 1 and 2 they don't move enough to open it so I can only get it to work on 3 - 6.
 
My Titax levers are span adjustable but the pivoting block (which should hit the micro switch) does not move with span adjustment.
They work the brake switch but not the clutch switch.
 
Whilst I agree with what you said in principle, not so easy in practice at times, when my switch was playing up, I got caught out a couple of times, stalled at lights and a faff trying to get neutral with cars behind impatiently trying to accelerate up your arse.
Also when off road in a precarious position it was almost impossible sometimes to lift my left foot to get neutral to restart, if the switch was working it would have been easy, I replaced mine in the end,

Mine has been like this for at least 2 years. It's only an issue when the coils pack up.
 
I always start my bike in 1st gear as its left parked in 1st gear, I see no point in changing to neutral just to start it. Why would you?
 
I always start my bike in 1st gear as its left parked in 1st gear, I see no point in changing to neutral just to start it. Why would you?

Because not having to stir up the gearbox oil is less strain on the starter motor. Always assuming it goes into first gear without crashing like some bikes do.
 
The Divvie 900 was started in gear because its wet clutch plates stuck & crashed the gears badly when cold.
 


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