Bit of an oil leak....

[Northern Monkey]

that sounds ok to me, may as well get it sanded and painted while its off!

 

[DrFarkoff]

Be careful when Pulling it off There are timed gear wheels in behind for the balancer shaft (lower Shaft) I can;t remember if the later one has the bolt into the centre of the balancer / auxiliary shaft but the early ones do remember to remove it

Heat the cover well when trying to remove it !!! If you heat and then rub an ordinary candle on the cover it will give you an idea of temperature you want the candle to melt with a little pressure most ordinary white wax candles melt at "around" 100 degrees C which is your target temp

 

[Bendy toy]

Tha later models doesn't have a front cover bearing for the lower shaft so easier to remove.

Absolutely. If a timing wheel jumps a tooth you'll have to re-time the whole set or risk all sorts of nasties.

 

[Northern Monkey]

I'm scared now! I'll have a proper look tomorrow


Sent by magic

 

[Bendy toy]

Mark the teeth with Tippex so you'll know where they align.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Mark the teeth with Tippex so you'll know where they align.

Take out plugs and move the pistons to BDC that way you cannot have any contact between the valves and the pistons if you have a "moment"!

Then Before refitting the cover carefully turn the motor to TDC and just check the timing marks

 

[Northern Monkey]

Can the 'cogs' come off when removing the cover???


Sent by magic

 

[DrFarkoff]

I don;t "think" so, Its more precautionary tactics Being ahead of the game means you shouldn't have to ever say Ooops! when working on your bike

The Auxiliary shaft which runs the chains for the cams (Lower gear wheels )

Runs right through to the back of the motor where a balancer weight is bolted on (you can see it in the Pic, below the flywheel)

Like I say I don;t know if yours has the bearing but heating the front cover to just over 100 degrees C makes things sooo much easier

and here you can see the bob weight thingy below the clutch

 

[Bendy toy]

If you have a pre 2008 you will have that support bearing in the lower part of the front cover. After 2008 don't have that bearing so no close tolerances to worry about.

When you refit the cover, its easier on the shaft seal to fit it AFTER the cover is fitted. Fitting the seal first (which seems the obvious way) it's all too easy to tear or fold the seal lip.

 

[theoneandonly]

not one person has said ...CLEAN IT , and find the leak first

 

[Northern Monkey]

not one person has said ...CLEAN IT , and find the leak first

It started out as diagnosis by replacing the easy 'likely' culprits, unfortunately it's now more a rescue from disaster! The plan was to test it after o ring and washer replacement - it still will be once I fix the threads

 

[cookie]

not one person has said ...CLEAN IT , and find the leak first

yeah, bit odd that.

 

[Bendy toy]

not one person has said ...CLEAN IT , and find the leak first

From personal experience no point (in this case anyway). A clean engine looks oily all over so nothing useful to glean from it. The dirt helps to show where the leak is coming from.

Mine was dirty when the leak started. Bother's bike was spotless and took ages to find the source. Initially we thought it was the previous owner's farkle spare oil bottle. His ended up being the same problem as mine. Corroded crank position sensor.

 

[Northern Monkey]

Ok - so nob head of the year award has a new contender! I tried a bigger screw in the hole and it screwed in perfectly ........ Turns out I was using the wrong fecking screw! Used the right bolt and jobs a good un!!

All re assembled and cleaned and no signs of leaks ...... Yet!

Thanks for all your help


Sent by magic

 

[st247]

not one person has said ...CLEAN IT , and find the leak first

No one likes to talk about sucking eggs.

 

[Bendy toy]

I really struggled to get the crank sensor out of the casing. The O ring had really stuck. I used two flat screwdrivers (one each side) to carefully lever it straight out.