Biting point adjustment

carbold

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Hi guys
my clutch is starting to bite very late - when the lever is close to the final position. I've done a search but - even though some had the same problem - there was no answer...Is there any way to move the biting point as for non-hydraulic clutches?
 
what bike is it?

i would have a go at adjusting the cable first. there is usually a threaded thingy at the clutch lever where the cable goes in. and maybe another one down at the gearbox somewhere.
 
Yes that would be the case with a normal cable-operated clutch but mine is hydraulic ('99 1150gs). I replaced the fluid and used good synthetic dot4 but it didn't make any difference.
 
dunno about GS's, but on a car that would tend to indicate the clutch was pretty worn.
 
Don't fill the reservoir to the top - as the clutch wears, the level rises -
 
I have the same problem, clutch takes up only when the lever is almost fully out. I think this is normal. I haven`t got round to it yet but I think the only option is to use the adjustment grub screw on the lever. I haven`t got round to it because it is threadlocked and needs some persuasion! :)
 

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Bleed point No 12 is located on the rear subframe offside ( r/h side) .
cable tied to the subframe in a foam sleeve, just rearwards of the rear brake mastercylinder reservoir -
 
Lukate, I'm afraid that would only change the distance between lever and handle-bar, the biting point would always be far out...
 
You're supposed to be an Engineer aren't you ?

Do an FEA analysis on the clutch lever.

Analyse the whole system in mathematical formulae - indicating the possible causes.

Write a report about it - padding it to about 20 pages, and drawing a non-committal conclusion.



.... Then take it to someone who knows what they're doing and can actually fix the problem in 10 mins :D
 
I'm gonna have to finish my PhD first...Only then I will be able to scientifically address the problem and draw some conclusion...
:D

Dr Carbold
 
2002-2003 1150 GS's : apparently there were a few dodgy slave cylinder mechanisms.

Mine failed completely at 6000 miles.

But the 'bite' moved inwards not outwards as it failed (ie closer to the bar.)
 
I'm afraid that would only change the distance between lever and handle-bar
Are you sure? In my experience, most bikes I have worked on have a setup similar to my sketch below. This will alter the lever angle when the clutch bites. Maybe the GS is different? Anyone? Steptoe? :beer:
 

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Ignore that previous sketch!! :D
It is back to front, D`oh!
Principle is the same though :beer:
 

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