Bloody gearbox failed?

Michael R1150GS Adventure

Well-known member
UKGSer Subscriber
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
1,656
Reaction score
19
Location
Tyne Valley
Ah damn it. Just back from France . 1500 miles and I think I may have lost a gearbox bearing or drive shaft failure in progress
The transmission was really loud it was uncomfortable to ride. It got me back but bugger me its noisy. Really rough clutch engagement, proper clank more than normal and then very gravelly running when accelerating. Have recorded the appalling noise it makes with the back wheel chocked up standing. It fairly rattles and basically sounds very sick. Anyone fancy a shufty at watching the video?
I changed the gearbox oil a short while ago, seems a little suspicious to me. I used castrol syntrax universal.
Help!

2003 GSA 45000 miles.
 
Why not drop the gearbox oil into a clean container and see if there is any bits of metal etc......if nothing found then it could be the shaft or final drive unit.
Im still learning all about these machines so chances are someone else will have more ideas.
 
Not likely to be a final drive issue surely if the clutch actuation has been affected. It sound a lot like mine did when the gearbox was buggered. Start getting mentally prepared for a very large bill.:tears
 
Noise seems to from back of gearbox. Little oil coming from larger diameter gaiter at final drive. That's new (the oil leak)

10 minutes to determine problem.

1. snip cable ties on gaiter to final drive, anything falls out?

2. drain g,box oil, sieve.

3. drain final drive oil, sieve.

99% chance you will know the answer :beer:
 
rear gaiter off, no clear leak from front or rear apparant
just seems to be a combination of slight misting and mucky water from my off road exploits leaking out of bottom of gaiter.
All cleaned up and back to gether.

Next, gearbox oil - drained sieved and clear. Looks like new oil
Next rear drive oil - drained sieved and clear. Looks liek new oil.

Perhaps I should use a heavier oil.

OR go to my mates to see if his does the same grinding clanking when the back wheel is off the ground and the bike is snicked into 1st gear at idle?

Anyone fancy doing that for me and tellign me what noise the box is making?

Sounds grindy and very clanky. Just sounds wrong :(
 
OR go to my mates to see if his does the same grinding clanking when the back wheel is off the ground and the bike is snicked into 1st gear at idle?

Anyone fancy doing that for me and tellign me what noise the box is making?

Sounds grindy and very clanky. Just sounds wrong :(

Doing the above makes a terrible noise on all BMW's, especially GS's with their longer shocks which makes the driveshaft U/J's at full articulation when on the stand and running in gear with no load.

That's why it's not a recomended thing to do. You'll feck the shaft up. :blast
 
cheers steptoe - yeah i remember it was a bad thing so only did it for a few seconds a couple of times in total. :D

what i didnt appreciate was how much the oil change has made things noisier

gonna try castrol axle 80W-90 GL5 next and see how things go

at least the oil wasnt full of sh1t so thats a start.
 
What Oil did you put in ?? was it a lower grade or spec?

It's a car type box so you could use Molyslip gearbox additive "In the correct measurement! i.e. amount of Molyslip per litre gearbox oil "

As a temporary measure to get you through to the winter for a strip and rebuild
 
cheers

have ruled out the clutch - the take up clunk is in the shaft not the actual clutch mech anism as far a si can tell.
Oil looked just like i had put it in - 2000 miles since changed
 
As far as I'm aware ( but what the feck do I know):D you are only supposed to use an 80/90 bevel drive oil in the gearbox and final drive.....and here's the big taboo bit. It MUST be GL5 rating! :thumb
But someone may say different. I tend to follow steptoe s advice as he knows his bunions :D
 


Back
Top Bottom