BMW dealer diagnostics

[denny]

Good day fellow tossers,

Do BMW main dealers have a super duper device other than the small yellow diagnostics device (911?) that my mechanic uses?

I've had a recurring stalling issue since June last year. It has made me cancel one holiday and I nearly had an off the other day

Plugs, coilpacks, injectors, hall sensor and a bunch of other things have been changed/swapped with new parts or from healthy bikes...only for it to start stalling again after a short period.

The problem I have now is when warm ie after my blast on the m.way while commuting to work, all is good, but when I stop at lights or while in first gear in slow moving traffic the revs will drop & she'll either pick up or stall. Sometimes when in first when rolling around a corner the revs will drop and pick up again...the last this happened I almost dropped the beast!

The tank internals have not been checked as the fuel pumped was changed approx 10000kms ago and the fuel filter even sooner.

Do BMW dealers have a another device that can run tests on the bike...or do whatever is needed to sort this? Can anybody offer any further advice on what can be done?

I don't mind forking out some wedge now as I'm at my wits end and want this sorted as I'm really starting to go off the bike. I've had the bike for over 2 years now and she ran like a dream until this problem appeared.

HELP

 

[Steptoe]

I'm afraid the 1150 is very basic on it's capability of talking to diagnostic equipment.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Difficult one to know what is happening without being there!

What is your throttle position sensor set at ? Little black box left hand throttle body! I'm heading back out to fix my own car here or I'd have a look for a link for you

Look for "setting throttle position sensor on BMW R1150"

Also Try disconnecting your lamda probe Right side of frame under tank follow the wire up and just unplug

The ECU will go to a default fueling map So you need to notice does it improve or get worse with this change

Search in the font of all knowledge for the "cat code plug removal" (I think) I had a problem with a tuned bike and it bugged me until I checked the code plug and changed the link route

Do come back and tell us if anything made a difference

 

[denny]

I'm afraid the 1150 is very basic on it's capability of talking to diagnostic equipment.

Clearly so. Another GS'er told me about a funkadelic computer/machine at the local stealer...does such a thing exist...does it see things the usual diag device doesn't or is it a myth???

Dr...TPS is set correctly. I havent tried removing the lamda plug but the readings while running were almost identical to a perfectly healthy bike. I'll try again with the plug removed too.

Thought I might try removing the main fuse on the fuse panel and see if it makes a difference without any accessories. You may laugh but I'm willing to try anything right now

 

[Jiffy176]

What about throttle stop screws loose missing tip fallen off? or knackered throttle bodies / oring gone somewhere spoiling the mixture?
Water in tank. I'd be tempted to change the fuel filter or check pipe for splits.
Have you checked spray pattern from injectors?

 

[DrFarkoff]

Check this out

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28293&highlight=code+plug

Post 12 you may find that you have nothing or a pink or yellow or blue "thing" that looks like a relay in that spot????

You can try Steptoe's link as it produces a slightly enhanced fuelling for the remus and Y piece

Also What did your mech set the TPS to?? Is his Multimeter decent or is it a £2 chinese P.O.S. of E bay??

 

[Steptoe]

Clearly so. Another GS'er told me about a funkadelic computer/machine at the local stealer...does such a thing exist...does it see things the usual diag device doesn't or is it a myth???

Yes, they do have a funkadelic machine at the dealers.
But, as i've said, the electronics are very basic on an 1150 and it's very limited in what it can tell the funky machine when they talk to each other.

Think of the 1150 as being a three year old child and the 1200 as a 30 year old man, both having a conversation with a doctor about their health.

 

[AberdeenAngus]

Dr...TPS is set correctly. I havent tried removing the lamda plug but the readings while running were almost identical to a perfectly healthy bike.

but was your bike behaving itself at the time ?

Have you tried changing the ht leads?

 

[denny]

What about throttle stop screws loose missing tip fallen off? or knackered throttle bodies / oring gone somewhere spoiling the mixture?
Water in tank. I'd be tempted to change the fuel filter or check pipe for splits.
Have you checked spray pattern from injectors?

Everything in place. Fuel filter changed less than 5000kms ago. Fuel lines changed at the same time. Not sure what the spray pattern is but the injecters were cleaned off the bike.

Also What did your mech set the TPS to?? Is his Multimeter decent or is it a £2 chinese P.O.S. of E bay??

Not sure what you mean. The TPS was set right in the middle of the scale as per the programme on the comp. The tools he uses are decent...not sure of the make though.

Think of the 1150 as being a three year old child and the 1200 as a 30 year old man, both having a conversation with a doctor about their health.

And I'm the 1 year old that doesnt have a clue

but was your bike behaving itself at the time ?

Have you tried changing the ht leads?

Yes it was....as it seems to do when idling even when warm. All seems ok, I leave the shop, do a smooth 5 km run then when I hit traffic it starts playing up.

I dont think the leads have been changed. Would swapping them over highlight a problem?

 

[denny]

One thing I forgot to mention is when cruising at speed, say in 4th or 5th at about 3k RPM, if I whack the throttle open it'll pull to about 5k RPM then decide to cut out (not stall though) and will only engage if I drop or go up a gear. Not sure if these are connected in any way but I can live with this...it's the stalling that is driving me nuts!

 

[DrFarkoff]

My thoughts? "Sounds" like a fuelling or ECU issue but very very hard to diagnose from a thousand miles away

Neil (Steptoe) has a lot more experience and may have another suggestion

What is the idle speed / engine temperature when the bike is having these wee moments?

Did you change the Main engine "motronic" ignition control unit in from a known good bike with no issues? (Big silver electronic alloy box thing under tank just behind alternator)

Do a run and if it does the stalling thing? As soon as possible open the fuel cap do you hear a rush of air into the tank?

Do a run with the Lamda disconnected? Does it do it ?

Is the air box lid properly closed and the filter properly seated?

 

[Steptoe]

Measure the resistance across both injectors. Should be around 16 ohms, or whatever it is you measure resistance in

 

[Timolgra]

Are the rubber caps under the throttle bodys ok?

 

[denny]

Dr...engine temp was 5 bars, idle was 1100 ish.

Don't think the motronic was changed.

Pretty sure the air filter (K&N) is seated properly. Lid is deffo shut tight.

Will do the other checks tommorrow if not tonight.

Steptoe...not sure how to check the resistance across the injectors, please tell.

Timolgra...yes, present with no signs of cracks/wear

 

[DrFarkoff]

Neil probably away working just now but basically lift back the connecting plug on the injectors and you need an ohm-meter (multimeter usually have them inbuilt)

One probe goes on one electrical contact of the injector and one on the other and check the reading

 

[Black Rooster]

note if measuring resistance make sure bike electrics are off

 

[littleredrooster]

note if measuring resistance make sure bike electrics are off

The only way to measure them is after the connector has been pulled off...

 

[uncle dick]

Measure the resistance across both injectors. Should be around 16 ohms, or whatever it is you measure resistance in

That would be Ohms then - in deference to Mr Ohm.

 

[Steptoe]

note if measuring resistance make sure bike electrics are off

It's an unplugged injector.

 

[Ted]

Get a fuel pressure gauge and check the fuel line pressure. If it drops as the engine stalls or when opening the throttle likely be a pump or pressure regulator. Not sure if they have a fuel pump/ecu relay Niel will correct me im sure, but they fail occasionaly on cars and give the same symptoms.
Also have a good look at the wired around the head stock bearings, they can crack and split. do a pysical check a continuity test would show ok with just 1 strand of wire still attached. my old 1150 started playing up and found a couple of these wires just hanging on.
This site is great for looking at parts and locations.

http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated_catalog2/MicroList.aspx?id=51759&catID=16&catname=Fuel_Supply&bindName=FUEL_DISTRIBUTOR_PRESSURE_REGULATOR&bindCat=16_0832