BMW r1200GS lc 2013 problems

Yetiboy

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Just replaced an indicator which I’d banged into and knocked off in the garage! The new indicator was tested and worked fine.

Charged battery with optimate 4 Dual (plugged into canbus sae socket as I normally do ) and didn’t seem to charge properly (both lights flashing like it couldn’t find the canbus circuit) so charged in standard mode.


Then went for a ride today.
No indicators.
No main beam.
No brake light.
No fuel level.
No heated grips.

Ride mode/suspension settings button works, rides fine on the road, Abs seems to function. LHS handlebar switch connections seem fine no loose wires.

When I switch bike on it shows 11.9V but runs upto 14.4V when engine started. The battery is less than 2 yrs old.

Checked the two fuses and also checked for a 50A fuse described in the riders manual. It literally is not there!!(I googled this and early 2013 LC’s dint have the alternator fuse)



Any ideas?
 
Forgot to say the general error red triangle comes on permanently after a minutes running and the battery icon is shown.
 
Actually think you just need new battery. Not sure about where you are, but down to -10C here couple of times. Need to keep on trickle charge when sub zero.
I’d eliminate battery from enquiries before digging deeper


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If your lucky, new battery, if not it could be the alternator, MY2013, were known for having stator failures

The old stator was 9 or 11 windings the new has 13 windings

The very bad news is its an engine out and gearbox off to replace

16hrs labour to remove ,split, & replace, + the cost of the new stator
 
If your lucky, new battery, if not it could be the alternator, MY2013, were known for having stator failures

The old stator was 9 or 11 windings the new has 13 windings

The very bad news is its an engine out and gearbox off to replace

16hrs labour to remove ,split, & replace, + the cost of the new stator

If down to that, get running and trade in for 1250. Good deals to be had with introduction of 1300


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Actually think you just need new battery. Not sure about where you are, but down to -10C here couple of times. Need to keep on trickle charge when sub zero.
I’d eliminate battery from enquiries before digging deeper


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Battery elimination is always the first step. Try not to see too many bogies up ahead until you get there.
Assuming 11.9v after charging for more than a few hours then it is probably toast. 14.4v engine running suggests that at least part of the charging circuit is working.
Test,test,test.
 
It does charge the battery, could it still be the stator?

What's the battery votlage showing as with the Bike running?

I had my alternator done last year (same Biek/year as you), at BMW was £1621 to get it done. half the cost is the part, the other half is the labour. (if i remembered the invoice right)


edit; checked my invoice.
Labour £660 plus VAT (£792) IIRC Bahnstormer labour rate is £120 p/h
Alternator £690.92 plus VAT (£829.11)
 
Last edited:
If your lucky, new battery, if not it could be the alternator, MY2013, were known for having stator failures

The old stator was 9 or 11 windings the new has 13 windings

The very bad news is its an engine out and gearbox off to replace

16hrs labour to remove ,split, & replace, + the cost of the new stator

Pretty sure it's not a 16 hour job. i certainly didn't get charged 16 hours of labour.....more like 8
 
I’ve heard about this alternator replacement before and think it’s outrageous!! I know BMW like to discourage DIY, but this is taking the piss!! Alternator replacement should be a bolt off/ on job. Anyway, I wouldn’t fight the nazis or pay £1,600 to repair……….I’d fully charge and trade in for a shinier one. After all it’s winter and they’re desperate to move stock……….and this little dud gremlin might slip right under their radar.



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PS. If trading in, choose dealer with BMW car franchise, it’ll all get absorbed in the wholesale conundrum. Thanks to the yanks, we live in a consumer society……..so consume, not fix


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Pretty sure it's not a 16 hour job. i certainly didn't get charged 16 hours of labour.....more like 8
Yup my bad, i missed the / between install & replace

engine out / in is 39 FRU - Gearbox off/on 15 FRU - Stator -3 FRU - Diags 5 FRU

Thats about 5.6 hrs labour I've probably missed some stuff as well

Dealers can also use some goodwill as well when it comes to labour - but either way its not a small job

my ECU failure was a complete strip to chassis and loom check + a host of parts the ECU was £1k+ just for the part
 
Maybe I should get a diagnostic tool? I have iPhone and iPad but nothing android an no laptop. Suppose that limits me, looks like obdlink lx+ and motoscan only works with android or pc. Is GS911 the only option? That seems to cost literally hundreds of pounds. What’s the best way to find if someone local could scan it for me? My bmw dealer is an hour away, I can’t ride the bike with no brakes light or indicators.
 
Maybe I should get a diagnostic tool? I have iPhone and iPad but nothing android an no laptop. Suppose that limits me, looks like obdlink lx+ and motoscan only works with android or pc. Is GS911 the only option? That seems to cost literally hundreds of pounds. What’s the best way to find if someone local could scan it for me? My bmw dealer is an hour away, I can’t ride the bike with no brakes light or indicators.

The GS911 supports Apple stuff, but not cheap. I have one if you’re in Scotland??
The red triangle might be the kiss of death


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Let’s see what happens after new battery


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Yup my bad, i missed the / between install & replace

engine out / in is 39 FRU - Gearbox off/on 15 FRU - Stator -3 FRU - Diags 5 FRU

Thats about 5.6 hrs labour I've probably missed some stuff as well

Dealers can also use some goodwill as well when it comes to labour - but either way its not a small job

my ECU failure was a complete strip to chassis and loom check + a host of parts the ECU was £1k+ just for the part
There is a big difference in what a main dealer can charge for. And how long it actually takes. It's an all day job requiring two people at times.
 
Just replaced an indicator which I’d banged into and knocked off in the garage! The new indicator was tested and worked fine.

Charged battery with optimate 4 Dual (plugged into canbus sae socket as I normally do ) and didn’t seem to charge properly (both lights flashing like it couldn’t find the canbus circuit) so charged in standard mode.


Then went for a ride today.
No indicators.
No main beam.
No brake light.
No fuel level.
No heated grips.

Ride mode/suspension settings button works, rides fine on the road, Abs seems to function. LHS handlebar switch connections seem fine no loose wires.

When I switch bike on it shows 11.9V but runs upto 14.4V when engine started. The battery is less than 2 yrs old.

Checked the two fuses and also checked for a 50A fuse described in the riders manual. It literally is not there!!(I googled this and early 2013 LC’s dint have the alternator fuse)



Any ideas?

It doesn't sound like an alternator. You don't have the alternator light on the dash too do you ?

Sounds like your dodgy charger or socket might have tripped a fuse on a control unit. They're not physical switches. Because all of those things that aren't working are controlled by a single control unit. You've got a red triangle. Get it plugged in.


You could try disconnecting your battery for 24 hrs too. They might reset.
 
It doesn't sound like an alternator. You don't have the alternator light on the dash too do you ?

Sounds like your dodgy charger or socket might have tripped a fuse on a control unit. They're not physical switches. Because all of those things that aren't working are controlled by a single control unit. You've got a red triangle. Get it plugged in.


You could try disconnecting your battery for 24 hrs too. They might reset.
I’ll definitely disconnect as you suggest.
 


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