Both RDC sensors died during one ride

[Joepi5]

Last week after washing my bike I took it out for a short ride to dry moisture away.
During the first few miles my from RDC sensor gave strange readings. Temperature -7 degrees C, while it was 22 degrees C outside, pressure at 3.9 Bar while there was around 2.5 Bar.
Moments later no readings at all.

The rear was reading fine/expected values. Later that ride 30 minutes or so the rear stopped giving readings and the dashboard check light came on. Since then I have not had any readings at all.
Could it be a coincidence that both batteries died almost simsimultaneously? Or could it be the RDC reading unit that has given the ghost? Is there a way to check and determine if it is the sensors or the RDC unit?

 

[glenn2926]

Err, what’s an RDC sensor?

 

[Joepi5]

Err, what’s an RDC sensor?

Reifen Druck Controlsystem. Tyre pressure monitoring system, but in German.

 

[glenn2926]

Reifen Druck Controlsystem. Tyre pressure monitoring system, but in German.

Ahh, no wonder I didn’t know what it was. Thanks.

 

[Joepi5]

During the ride home today from work, after a fuel stop the rear one started again. So luckily I think it's just a dead battery in the front.

 

[er-minio]

Given the after market ones are fairly cheap (just installed two a few months ago) might make sense to replace them both at the same time.

 

[Joepi5]

Given the after market ones are fairly cheap (just installed two a few months ago) might make sense to replace them both at the same time.

My thinking exactly. Only I plan on getting the updated Schrader 3141m oroginals. Just a peace of mind that they will work and will last.

 

[er-minio]

Double check if the new Schrader work with the old RDC receivers (the alarm/rdc unit in the tail of the Hexhead).

I installed the cheap Chinese ones you can find on eBay. I was skeptical at first but they do work perfectly.
I am going to install a second set on the other set of wheels too.

 

[Joepi5]

Double check if the new Schrader work with the old RDC receivers (the alarm/rdc unit in the tail of the Hexhead).

I installed the cheap Chinese ones you can find on eBay. I was skeptical at first but they do work perfectly.
I am going to install a second set on the other set of wheels too.

According to this thread they do.

Thread 'TPMS'

Jun 24, 2023

I tried to post this on a previous thread, but couldn’t get an answer, so sorry I’ve started a fresh one.
I have a 2010 30th Anniversary 1200GSA and the rear TPM is working intermittently. Can someone please post a link for a replacement that will work on my bike please. I have read all the threads I can find, but still not 100% sure what I need. Thanks in advance.

• short001
• Replies: 28
• Forum: 1200 GS Hexhead

Both work at 433mHz.

Edit:
And I hate cheap Chinese stuff from AliExpress or Alibaba with a passion. So it's either these schrader units or I disable the function all together.

This hate comes from the fact that a company I worked for got their designs stolen and copied. After a while our designs were available on the cheap from China. We caught the flak for faulty units and eventually it really damaged the reputation.

It's too cheap and it's causing damage to European/British/American companies and I believe we should not let this happen.

 

[er-minio]

And I hate cheap Chinese stuff from AliExpress or Alibaba with a passion. So it's either these schrader units or I disable the function all together.

I respect that.

I try to avoid Chinese knock off shit as much as possible, but admit I caved on the sensors.

 

[leadfarmer]

Just changed all 4 on my car, 180 euros for 4 Schrader valves, fitted and programmed

Sometimes you just get your wallet out

 

[RadioFlyer]

Pretty much all sensors work at 433.92 MHz. The frequency is not what makes them incompatible. Rather it is things like message format, modulation scheme and coding. All the BMW Schrader RDCs use the same parameters.

 

[Slipperyeel]

Just seen this post.

Like Er-minio, I also fitted the cheap Chinese ones. However....some weeks back, the front sensor would send a failure signal if I hit a big bump. Ignition on/off fixed it. But since I was about to fit new tyres, I got my wallet out and bought the non BMW branded Schroeder units from Motorworks. All is good. A doddle with the GS911 to wipe the old and input the new Schraders.

When I took the rear tyre off, I got it onto the jig and discovered it was running out (axially) by a good 2mm. So it got a total strip down and rebuild. Now it's almost perfect. All done in one day . Return trip to Italy was smoother than ever, which to be honest I put down to lots of time spent balancing them.

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[Joepi5]

Just seen this post.

Like Er-minio, I also fitted the cheap Chinese ones. However....some weeks back, the front sensor would send a failure signal if I hit a big bump. Ignition on/off fixed it. But since I was about to fit new tyres, I got my wallet out and bought the non BMW branded Schroeder units from Motorworks. All is good. A doddle with the GS911 to wipe the old and input the new Schraders.

When I took the rear tyre off, I got it onto the jig and discovered it was running out (axially) by a good 2mm. So it got a total strip down and rebuild. Now it's almost perfect. All done in one day . Return trip to Italy was smoother than ever, which to be honest I put down to lots of time spent balancing them.

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Did you fix the runout yourself? Do you have some tips on it? It's something I'm thinking about doing this winter. If it's not to be recommended to do yourself I'm taking them to a specialist.

 

[Slipperyeel]

Did you fix the runout yourself? Do you have some tips on it? It's something I'm thinking about doing this winter. If it's not to be recommended to do yourself I'm taking them to a specialist.

Get yourself a jig - rather than just a balancing frame/stand. A torque wrench (1-10Nm). Some 0000 wire wool and you'll need to remove every single nipple and clean the seat of the nipple and hub. A long T40 torx bit to remove the nipples, but first a 2mm Allen to remove all the grub screws from the nipples (I suggest drenching each one in a light oil the night before). You'll need some way to support the rear wheel (I printed something for this) on the jig spindle. The last and super useful tool, but horribly expensive, TruSpoke tool to measure everything before you start (and record so you can resemble with close approximation if where it will was before you started). But I now know it's not essential but flippin useful. Look at the BMW service manual for spec on torque and run out limits.
With all that, it's a matter of committing yourself! Record the state before you touch anything (photos, video). I suggest a battery drill with the T40 torx to remove all the nipples. Do each spoke individually so you don't have to work out how to lace it all again!
It'll drive you insane to begin with. But depending on how your brain works and how patient you are, it'll all start to make sense.
I've done 3 pairs of wheels now plus one. Several thousand miles now on my own wheels and all good

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[Joepi5]

That tool indeed is very expensive... For the price of the tool I can have both my wheels done three separate times at a wheel builder . Guess I will just take them to Haan Wheels in the Netherlands.

 

[Slipperyeel]

That tool indeed is very expensive... For the price of the tool I can have both my wheels done three separate times at a wheel builder . Guess I will just take them to Haan Wheels in the Netherlands.

I did go to two wheel builders to get my front wheel done around a year ago. One was retired (but wouldn't touch these cross spoked wheels anyway) the other, in the Midlands in the UK, wouldn't touch these wheels either! So I thought f it, I'll do it myself!

Yes. That tool is horribly expensive. But it has given me independence. Which I decided is worth a lot. But I totally get your thinking, especially if you actually have access to people who will take on these wheels. In theory it's not a job you'd hope to be doing that often!

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