Botheration

For the paralever (pivot) bearings you can make a puller from sockets, washers and threaded rod. Or you can knock them out as in the ADV link you found (harder when the swingarm is still on the bike though). If you knock them out its a good idea to have a helper with a heavy dolly of some sort held against the other side of the swingarm to absorb the shock.

I've never done a big bearing but the adv thing is similar to other tutorials I've seen but he changes the taper bearing too (you won't be doing that). Make sure you save the big spacer shim and reuse it. There's a posting somewhere on adv from Steptoe were he changes the big bearing at the side of the road (I don't have a link to it but I think it's buried in a huge 'final drive failure' thread - perhaps someone else will have a link to it). His post is great because it shows a bare bones, minimal tools method and makes it look easy - almost anything else in your garage at home will be easier!
 
. Or you can knock them out as in the ADV link you found (harder when the swingarm is still on the bike though).


It's easy with the swingarm on the bike - takes hardly any force to knock out the inner bearing race.
Heat up the swingarm and you can tap it out using your hand. :D
 
It's easy with the swingarm on the bike - takes hardly any force to knock out the inner bearing race.
Heat up the swingarm and you can tap it out using your hand. :D

Brill - only ever done it with the swingarm off myself - good to know it's as easy with everything assembled. :thumb2
 
Well, over the last few days I've had the rear wheel & final drive off the GS and done a bit of work. The feck-off big crown bearing has been replaced, along with its seal. I've also replaced the two pivot bearings as there seemed to be some play and I don't want to take all this apart ever again.

I had a good long look at the thread mentioned earlier. Unlike that chap I did not remove the swinging arm.

My GS is cleaner than his. I did not think there was a GS dirtier than mine but it turns out there is. Well, muddier anyhow :)

It's been good fun to get on with it, however my shoulder has complained rather so I'm very glad indeed I didn't attempt to do the clutch a few weeks back. Hoiking the gearbox around would be a serious no-no.

The only thing left to do is to ride the bike for around 50 miles. If there's no play then and no oil leaking out[ii] then I'll change the final drive oil[iii] and that'll be it :)

broke my collarbone in late Feb & it's not healed entirely rightly
[ii] I may have damaged the surface the seal fits into on the final drive cover[iv]
[iii] it was not clean inside my drive casing, in fact it was covered in blackness, which I have thoroughly cleaned off.
[iv] or just put the seal in wrong[v]
[v] I am inept, after all
 
Well, I'm pleased to say that one successful test ride later I changed the oil, found no bits and (as it wasn't raining) took a 2nd test ride. Everything feels just fab & nothing's leaked out. A sucess!

Thanks for the advice & help.

Cheers
 


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