Brake Pad Change ... How Easy ?

DJ GSA

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I just changed the front and rear pads on my 2015GSA-LC for the first time.

Piece of piss took me an hour basically cos I was guessing but I reckon 30 mins next time around, including a quick road test.

Begs the question, what were BMW gonna charge me £75 plus parts for ?

Any ideas what BMW would charge for the actual pads ? I have genuine "Brembo" pads
 
Genuine Brembo

Carbon/Ceramic Sintered (whatever the hell that means)

plaquettes_brembo_sinter.jpg


(There weren't that many in the box)
 
I just changed the front and rear pads on my 2015GSA-LC for the first time.

Piece of piss took me an hour basically cos I was guessing but I reckon 30 mins next time around, including a quick road test.

Begs the question, what were BMW gonna charge me £75 plus parts for ?

Any ideas what BMW would charge for the actual pads ? I have genuine "Brembo" pads

as a matter of interest how long did they last ?
 
My rear breakpads don't last that long. 6k miles. Bike on 12k now and second set. Front pads will be done before we set off for holiday. I do confess that I use the rear more to stabilise the bike going slow and trimming speed in a corner because of over enthusiasm entering it. My style is also to engage both brakes to slow the bike down. Yes I know the rear is engaged by the bike for normal stuff. I like to have that control.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
No mate, no problem with the ABS. Undo the bolts. For the rear you have to take off the mudguard and wheel before taking the caliper off. Take the pin out. Take the pads out, note the orientation. Push the pistons back. New pads in with or without some copperslip. Pin back in. Refit the caliper. The front caliper torque values are in the riders manual. The rear is 24Nm if I recall correctly. Refit rear wheel and mudguard. Important. Don't forget to pump the brake lever till the pads contact the brake disc. You might stretch the white of your eyes if you don't :D
 
No mate, no problem with the ABS. Undo the bolts. For the rear you have to take off the mudguard and wheel before taking the caliper off. Take the pin out. Take the pads out, note the orientation. Push the pistons back. New pads in with or without some copperslip. Pin back in. Refit the caliper. The front caliper torque values are in the riders manual. The rear is 24Nm if I recall correctly. Refit rear wheel and mudguard. Important. Don't forget to pump the brake lever till the pads contact the brake disc. You might stretch the white of your eyes if you don't :D

Why remove the rear wheel to change the pads ? there is no need.

Front pads £20 a set. Rear Pads £16 - Ferodo. Not so hard as most pads so you don't end up wearing the discs out. :D
 
Why remove the rear wheel to change the pads ? there is no need.

Front pads £20 a set. Rear Pads £16 - Ferodo. Not so hard as most pads so you don't end up wearing the discs out. :D

I haven't replaced the rear pads yet, but I've had them out to clean and copper slip as it was squealing a bit. You don't have to remove the wheel or anything else, just remove the clips from the pad retaining pin, pull the pin out and remove the pads, 5 minute job max
 
Still on my new original front and rear pads after more than 14,000 miles - loads left on the front, rear about half worn at a guess.
 
Why remove the rear wheel to change the pads ? there is no need.

Front pads £20 a set. Rear Pads £16 - Ferodo. Not so hard as most pads so you don't end up wearing the discs out. :D
Yes, you are right. I clean the calipers when I replace the pads. You can get the rear caliper off but with new pads in it is better to have the wheel off when refitting. Also good chance to do a bit of cleaning on a rarely seen part of the bike and give it the mk1 eyeball. That is just how I work on the bike.

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as a matter of interest how long did they last ?

I've done 15k from new and this is the first change. I have no experience with pads for the bike I went with Brambo cos that the name on the caliper and they sound kinda cool Carbon/Ceramic. But happy to take advice and recommendations from others

Why remove the rear wheel to change the pads ? there is no need.

The rear caliper came off easy enough, but had to slack the back wheel to get the caliper back on. That was for spoked wheels I'm guessing that cast wheels wont have that problem

There we no warnings or anything on the dash after and the bike goes and stops fine.

I rechecked and retightened everything and all it well

Still on my new original front and rear pads after more than 14,000 miles - loads left on the front, rear about half worn at a guess.

In my opinion there was plenty left on both sets of pads, but maybe BMW thought probably not enough to get the the next service hence the recommendation.

Anyway glad I did it as i like a bit of spannering
 
Still on my new original front and rear pads after more than 14,000 miles - loads left on the front, rear about half worn at a guess.

Same here, I've had 1 GS and two GSA all the same no issues at all with pads wearing out early. Done 12,000 miles now and both front and rear have loads of wear left.

Terry
 
I've just changed my front pads at 13.5k miles and they had maybe 1mm of the wear line left.

The rear was supposedly 50% worn at the 6.5k service, but I had to get a new set fitted at 8k in Italy as several days in the Alps had worn them out :D They're now ready for replacement again :eek:

I do ride two-up all the time on twisty roads in the Lakes, Dales and North Pennines etc. Motorway mileage doesn't wear stuff out as quickly ;)
 
I just changed the front and rear pads on my 2015GSA-LC for the first time.

Piece of piss took me an hour basically cos I was guessing but I reckon 30 mins next time around, including a quick road test.

Begs the question, what were BMW gonna charge me £75 plus parts for ?

Any ideas what BMW would charge for the actual pads ? I have genuine "Brembo" pads

Basically, a dealership has a fixed cost it needs to generate income & profit

Its a simple formula, overheads, rent, gas, electric, rates, wages, & consumables... All this gives a dealership a fixed

cost for a year

Divide that by 12/52/40 as appropriate, to get an hourly rate, add on 33% profit margin, and there's the hourly rate.

If the dealership is in the burbs it will be low, inner city and it will be high.

Spares, are an even bigger markup, consumables are the biggest one ;) you can hit a 55% markup on some items

Honda used to have a 60% markup on some of there bulbs !!.

Also you are paying for a fixed time for the pad change.

The blue books give a time to change the pads, say 60 mins, if the dealer completes the job in 45mins, you still get

charged for the full 60 mins .

However if they encounter a problem, and the job takes 90 mins, they cant charge over the 60 mins ...

Book time for a clutch change on a Mk2 Escort 90 mins - I watched my best man at his garage do 3 in that time...

(including my own lol )

many years ago I used to work for a company that supplied seat belts to xxxx for the xxxx series .. cost for a full set

of belts ... Front Left, Front Right, Rear Left & Rear Right & the centre lap belt ??? £7!!!

Bearing in mind we built & shipped 5000 sets per day!

Try to buy one as an individual spare part ...... £35

Mart
 


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