Brakes again 1100GS 97

i have put it in the for sale section, if it don't go i will persevere but i am pissed off at the mo. Thanks to all who offered advice :thumb
 
1100

How much?
Dave (I hate christmas) GS
 
I will see wot i can do on the pics and Dave the staps are £00.02p each or if you mean the bike checkout the for sale post :thumb2 anyway i thought you would of said "feck it off onto ebay" by know :D
I have bought a winter hack which a member of this parish is delivering tomorrow morning as the GS looks like a long term project now :blast
 
Brakes

Took the words out of my mouth!!, just leave it tied you for a while but honestly I cannot understand how it is doing this where does thuis air come from? is these somthing not right with the abs unt?. Why not by pass the unit? but don't do it all in flexible hose or it will be spngy as othwers have found that is if your going to use it with no abs. But why not bridge it out
and see if it's ok then this is a drastic step but drastic probl;ems ned drastic remedys. Good luck with it don't give up!. But don't forget we've all ridden bikes for ever with out ABS so it wouldent be the end of the world.
Dave (I hate christmas ( brakes) GS
 
Think thats the way its going to go Dave, checked this morning, no improvement, will call Goodrich next week and order the lines.
 
This may sound like a simple question, and is based on a similar issue with a GS850 in the past.

Have you used a new banjo bolt at the master cyclinder ? Or re-used the old one with new pipes ?

I had the issue where the new bolt was too long and would not allow me to fully bleed the system.

Then I found the old bolt was too short and let air in...

I ended up shiming the new bolt with copper washers until I had everything aligned.

Three of us had spent a weekend in a mates garage trying to work it out until my mates wife asked us had we checked the bolts worked!Sounded like a daft question at first but 15 mins later we had a working system.

Still works a treat 5 years later.
 
Interesting, i have not checked the length of the goodrich s/s bolt against the original (if i can find it !!) but all unions are new using the bolts supplied with the hose kit, i will look into it.
Another thing after reading the post on here about the ABS modulator, i dont suppose some wiz would know how i can get the modulator to do its thing as i am wondering if that will move the trapped air :nenau
Not had much time due to being on nights but did install the pads and calipers after fitting the wheel today before coming to work as had to move it to make room for my new winter tool delivered by a top bloke from Leeds today :thumb
After it was all back together tried it, still nowt so back on with the cable tie.
I am off tomorrow so after i have prepped the winter tool for winter i will have another go. cheers
 
(...) Another thing after reading the post on here about the ABS modulator, i dont suppose some wiz would know how i can get the modulator to do its thing as i am wondering if that will move the trapped air :nenau
(...)

Hi Den,

I had the same thoughts as you when i had my problem too. I had a theory that the dealer would connect a gizmo to the modulator, opening the valves and bleeding the full system. But no... not on the 1150.

Based on my experience, the strap removes the air from the ABS modulator.

If you bleed the system as well as you could, and if you left the strap on, you shoud definitely be able to sort it out. Otherwise, I would suggest you have another problem other that air in the modulator (could you have some pistons with the seals nacked?).
 
brakes

Looking at th earlier post about unions leaking air, why not check with some soapy water. Make a strong solution with washing up liquid and water, paint it around thwe unions amd pump the levers see if any thing happens. WEioth a try cost's nothing at least you can eliminate this as the cause.
 
nunesaf i will continue with the strap routine and Dave i will check all unions and seals, the pistons are working on the discs if you pump the lever fast enough and releasing well. I will check though, i have to take the heads off next to get the studs removed so that will keep me occupied for a while :augie.
cheers guys
 
have you tried the molegrip method on th brake lines yet ?

1. clamp a molegrip at the rubber hose straight out of the M/C

pump it against the moles -
does it go rock hard ? yes - goto step 2
no - its the m/c seals.

2. clamp the lh caliper off at the top of the rubber hose - move your top molegrips down to the bottom of the top hose ?

still hard - keep going - soft ? - its the hose

etc etc and keep eliminating sections. for one side - then do the other side
 
it'll still work if they're braided

just be very careful - don't overtighten them - squash them round afterwards etc.

better than no brakes at all :thumb
 
(...)the pistons are working on the discs if you pump the lever fast enough and releasing well (...)
Just out of curiosity - did you adjust the pivot screw on the lever? It could be that it is too far from the master cycilinder... just a thought really :P
 
no, havent adjusted lever.
i am still pumping the lever daily but am now moving on to the cylinder head removal so i can get the exhaust studs removed.

Shall i start a new post :augie
 
no, havent adjusted lever.
i am still pumping the lever daily but am now moving on to the cylinder head removal so i can get the exhaust studs removed.

Shall i start a new post :augie

Hi Den,

That may very well be a potential source for your problem.

Be right back with further instructions (I am on a meeting right now)
 
Hi Den,

This may be just a possibility. I know you can hear the fluid passing through the system and that you swaped the master cylinder to isolate the cause. But as you never tied the lever for a while with another master cylinder, check out the pivot screw on your current master cylinder as it may be too far from the piston :nenau.

This is what may be happening: http://www.sendmefile.com/nunesaf/00656422
 


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