Brakes and ABS

[Tim Cullis]

HELP! Problems extracting brake caliper pin

I'm trying to change the front pads on an F650GS twin, though the procedure is pretty much the same as on other bikes. I've removed the 'R' clip that runs through the pad locating pin, but I can't budge the pin.

I've tried removing the caliper block so I can hammer a drift through with a bit more force but I'm concerned about hitting it too hard.

I guess there's some corrosion though the bike is only 9 months old. Any ideas welcome!

Tim

 

[cookie]

maybe i'm imagining it, but don't some of those pins screw in?

 

[Tim Cullis]

There's no sign of a thread and I'm pretty sure I've just drifted the pin out on the 1200GSA. Bit like Gecko's pic on this thread.

 

[cookie]

you're probably right. i just remember some caliper where the pin was slotted and it screwed out. maybe not bmw at all

 

[Tim Cullis]

No, it was BMW. I've just looked at the 1200GSA and the front caliper pin is a screw, the rear is a push. The F650GS twin front brake is pretty much like the 1200GS rear, so to get the pin out one would drift it from the righthand side of the bike.

Tim

 

[Tim Cullis]

OK, problem sorted, a mate came round with a helping of technical expertise. First of all he tried grabbing the pin with mole grips and turning it--it wouldn't budge. Then he hit the pin in the opposite direction which eventually got it moving.

Reassembled after cleaning with emery cloth and some grease.

Tim

 

[tr5esu]

They are quite hard to take out on the 800, but they are even harder to push back in! I used a nail which was slightly thinner to hammer it out. It you think there's corrosion in there then you can spray some WD40 or some other lubricant and let it loosen it up a bit.

Cheers!

 

[Womble_Jim]

Rear brake ABS

Just a quick question from a newbie.
Whilst on the way into work I was caught by two(!) lightning quick traffic signal changes which made me brake a lot harder than usual.
My question is when braking I felt an obvious pulsing from the rear brake, but not from the front. I presume this is normal but does it mean I was being too hard on the rear causing only the rear wheel to activate the ABS? Or did I just not notice the front ABS kicking in? Or am I completely imagining things?...
Many thanks guys!

 

[Greggers]

I think the rear ABS is quite sensitive anyway, but I think what you've felt is all down to weight tranference under braking... If you brake only with the rear wheel, then the bike is relatively stable in terms of loading, but the moment you apply front brake then a lot of weight is transferred forward, effectively 'unloading' the rear wheel - As the rear gets lighter obviously the grip it has on the road surface lessens, and it starts to lock - which is when the ABS kicks in.
An extreme illustration is a GP bike braking hard on the front wheel - the rear will be skipping on the road surfce - no contact = no grip which is why the rear brake is next to redundant on a race bike ...

 

[manxpanzer]

sensetive abs

yup it was the rear abs kicking in, it's way too sensetive anyway. ya can trigger it just by hitting a pot hole!

 

[smokey]

I have had the ABS going on my 800 in a moment of 'thanks for pulling out on me Mr car driver' and I have to say I found it way more sensitive but also more refined than the ABS on my old fazer.

 

[snowlife_9999]

I have had the ABS going on my 800 in a moment of 'thanks for pulling out on me Mr car driver' and I have to say I found it way more sensitive but also more refined than the ABS on my old fazer.

Ok, take the bike to a dry back street, hit 35+mph, 70+k/ph. Ensure that there is no one around. Then stamp on the back break. It will feel like there is a small hammer under you foot. That is all cool.

BUT, i think that i kicks in to early. I have been breaking into a stop sign a bit faster than normal but safe. The rear ABS have activated, like normal, also the front has activated for 3/4 hammer hits.

I think that it really kicks in too early in dry conditions. In addition to that I also believe that it extends you breaking distance (i have activated both in the dry and i over shot a STOP sign by 2m when i thought that i would be fine).

Verdict, dry it activate to early and extend breaking distance, in the WET (back only) works a treat.

If i had my time again (26y.o.) i would NOT get ABS (detract from the fun)

 

[Klanky]

Dont know if the Aussie bikes are a different spec, Snowlife - but in the UK you can disable the ABS using the buttons if you're not happy with it.

 

[snowlife_9999]

Dont know if the Aussie bikes are a different spec, Snowlife - but in the UK you can disable the ABS using the buttons if you're not happy with it.

yes, you can disable, but it is when the ignition is on but the bike is not running. I would really like it if the ABS button was a 5sec (about) hold down to disable while moving.

The question is, 'Do you always want to stop and turn off the bike every time the riding conditions change?'

 

[Klanky]

yes, you can disable, but it is when the ignition is on but the bike is not running. I would really like it if the ABS button was a 5sec (about) hold down to disable while moving....

Which would sound like a Sensible Thing....

But I bet the reason why the ABS cannot be disabled on the move is more to do with litigation risks as opposed to a physical reason. More's the pity.

 

[Aretsukusu]

Pitted Front Disc @ 5k!

I'm looking for some warranty advice.

I was checking over SWMBO's F650GS yesterday and noticed some severe pitting on the front disc. We dropped by the dealership to get it checked out and it was agreed that that they would replace the disc under warranty .

However, (and heres the catch), they need/have to replace the brake pads as part of the job and want to charge £60.00+ parts & labour and thats not covered by the warranty.

I had a chunt about this as its not our fault the disc is made of monkey metal and the protocol requires the pads replacing. The guys advised their hands were tied by the BMW warranty and suggested taking it up with Customer Services.

Any and all advice on dealing with BMW on this type of thing gratefully received!

 

[cookie]

that is normal IME.

get the old pads and put them back in when the new ones wear out

 

[GSmonkey]

I've had two discs changed out under warranty in my time. On one occasion the pads were mostly worn, so I agreed to pay for new pads. Second time, there were loads of meat left..........BMW paid without asking.

 

[Wookie]

IMHO they should change the pads as well, thats just BS them not changing them and id personnely 'spit the dummy' out over that one.

 

[spannerman]

Rear Brake Not working

Whilst in the dealers today picking my bike up after its 12000 mile service, I mentioned that the rear brake on the good ladys f800gs has stopped working the dealer suggested he would be able to look at it in july!!!!! anybody got any ideas to speed the T!!ts up a bit ?