Buying Advice GS

[Bickers2208]

I'm going to look at a paralever R100GS next week. It looks to have covered 6000 miles in 12 years
Shy of the normal tyre kicking is there anything I should be looking out for that is airhead specific?
I'm mechanically capable but I haven't had an airhead for 10 years

 

[barny]

See if the exhaust to Head joint has been lubricated with Copperslip or similar. Check tank for corrosion if its been standing during the 6K usage. Otherwise good luck most things can be overcome but it depends on your pocket. Also look at the tyre age if its done 6K in 12 years they could well be over 10 years old which could help with bargaining the price down (£200 for a set min)

Barny

 

[Redboots]

(£200 for a set min)

You was robbed then.

 

[B Murr]

Will you be allowed to take it for a test run, listen for whining gearbox bearings if you do . Driveshaft can be a weak point, bike on centre stand rotate back wheel and listen for knocking/clicking noise from driveshaft. Do a compression test if you can. When started it should sound a bit rattly, if very quiet in rocker box area then valve seats may have receded. Ask about when splines were lubed. If its been stood in weather check gearbox oil for water, I presume not stood outside as if stood that long in weather you've a whole host of potential gremlins lurking..

 

[Kenny]

Bloody good full service should sort it all out. Might not want to start if carbs gummed up. Hard to give advice without seeing bike.

 

[Beemerboff]

All the bearings in the drive line are expensive and suspect, so when you have the bike on the certre stand to check for play in the driveshaft UJs check the rear wheel for rock, then the bearings at the back and pivot of the paralever.

All should all be slightly preloaded and have no play.

The paralever bearings are theoretically adjustable, but by the time the rear ones need much adjustment they are usually stuffed,, and they and the pivots are not a true taper roller and both fragile and prone to turn on the pivot pins so not a cheap fix.

If you have to replace the "wheel" bearing in the final drive it is not DIY and could be expensive, as is a replacement/ rebuild drive shaft, and if the para bearings need doing too it could easily end up well into four figures.

But if all need to be one the rest of the bike is likely to be little better----------------.

 

[Blackplate]

Excessive oil on the ‘engine-shelf’ under the gearbox. It may give you an idea about the rear crank seal condition. Damage to the gearbox end case & actuation lever mounts. All repairable but knock money off if you see that.
If starting is hard but it does go, I’d be happy, it means most of the ignition is probably ok but the carbs may need a good clean & set up. Not unusual.

 

[(RIP) Arkwright]

A 100GS should go first bump of the starter even the heap of shit I finished up with started up. But it now has finished up with a new engine, a rebuilt gearbox, driveshaft and bevel drive. It now has a siemens ignition kit and a set of omega pistons and runs beatifully.

 

[mikeyboy]

If you are unsure of what you are looking at,
Take someone with you who knows the bikes.
The bikes are 30 + years old,and may have unknown history,unrecorded mileage and dubious repairs may have been done in the past.
There is no such thing as a cheap motorbike

 

[Tetley]

I bought this one....

This had 5000 miles on it when I bought it. The one previous owner bought it for a trip to the iom, but didn’t make it. Stayed in his shed with little use until I bought it three years ago.
All I can say is, if it’s a genuine 6000 miler then it should look un molested. If it looks like it’s had any work done on it proceed with caution.
I changed all of the fluids on mine plus a full service. It has never missed a beat.

 

[Beemerboff]

Excessive oil on the ‘engine-shelf’ under the gearbox. It may give you an idea about the rear crank seal condition. Damage to the gearbox end case & actuation lever mounts. All repairable but knock money off if you see that.
If starting is hard but it does go, I’d be happy, it means most of the ignition is probably ok but the carbs may need a good clean & set up. Not unusual.

Oil on the shelf can also be leaking from the neutral switch - DAHIK!

 

[mikeyboy]

You don’t state the total mileage?
But ,condition is the main factor for me.
If it’s a corroded heap,it’s got to be cheap.
You can budget on £500 + just to refurb the wheels and tyres

 

[solidstate100]

You don’t state the total mileage?

Did you read the first line of the first post?

 

[JJH]

Did you read the first line of the first post?

It looks to have coverd 6000 miles in last 12 years. What about the other 18 or so years? JJH

 

[Bem]

Did you read the first line of the first post?

Err, I read it and am still looking for the total mileage.............

 

[mikeyboy]

Did you read the first line of the first post?

As said above ,an R100gs could be 30 years old,
Last time I checked ,they were not made in 2006.

 

[mikeyboy]

You don’t state the total mileage?
But ,condition is the main factor for me.
If it’s a corroded heap,it’s got to be cheap.
You can budget on £500 + just to refurb the wheels and tyres

If the bikes been stood,check for perished pushrod tube seals,
Also worth checking the clutch releases ok by putting it in gear and trying to turn the rear wheel with clutch in.
If it runs ,valve gear wants to be fairly quiet as does the timing chain.when hot.
I’d want to do a cold start up,(I’d want to know why if the motor was already warm)
Crank it over till the oil pressure light goes out,then stop cranking,the oil light wants to stay out for over 10 secs.
These bikes have a habit of getting expensive if you start pulling them apart.

 

[solidstate100]

As said above ,an R100gs could be 30 years old,
Last time I checked ,they were not made in 2006.

Ha! My bad. Soz.

 

[Istanbulian]

Look for cracking on the coils..a weakpoint of the R100GS