Now mine only ever leaks from the left hand side, so I will swap this one for your left one. That way I get a pair that dont leak and you can have a pair that leak evenly from both sides, I think this is a fair offer
Carbs should / shouldn't I ????????
- Thread starter BegesRus
- Start date
Now mine only ever leaks from the left hand side, so I will swap this one for your left one. That way I get a pair that dont leak and you can have a pair that leak evenly from both sides, I think this is a fair offer
cm246
Guest
HAHAHA or maybe we can swap them the other way around !
SJRoome
Registered user
Hi
The inside of the tank is coated. It is this that is flaking off. You can see pictures in my thread on repairing a rusty tank here. http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188228.
Having one side leak and the other not is quite normal. We just need to find why that one is leaking. Taking it off will mean that the carbs will lose synchronisation, but as you will not be touching the idle or mixture screws while it is off you wont be effecting the tuning. You can worry about things like that once you have stopped the leak. If you measure the free play in the cables before you take them off and put the back with the same play it will be near enough for now.
Go carefully through the steps I gave and report back on the results. For example if it leaks, where does it leak from? How much?
Steve
The inside of the tank is coated. It is this that is flaking off. You can see pictures in my thread on repairing a rusty tank here. http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188228.
Having one side leak and the other not is quite normal. We just need to find why that one is leaking. Taking it off will mean that the carbs will lose synchronisation, but as you will not be touching the idle or mixture screws while it is off you wont be effecting the tuning. You can worry about things like that once you have stopped the leak. If you measure the free play in the cables before you take them off and put the back with the same play it will be near enough for now.
Go carefully through the steps I gave and report back on the results. For example if it leaks, where does it leak from? How much?
Steve
cm246
Guest
Thanks Steve
I will start from the tank I will oerder the Motorcycle Fuel Tank Repair Kit POR15 and start from that. I am off work next week so that gives me plenty of time to do it. That kit contains other chemicals to clean and remove the rust before you apply the coat so I wont be doing the electrolisis part from your post. Yesterday I opened the taps and exept from a few pices of rust that I found on both of them on the left hand one I also discovered that the internal gauze filter is missing. So I will order one of those too. Maybe the lack of this filter causes the leak as it allows the rust to go through? Maybe . On youtube i found a video that shows that of the petrol goes through with enough mechanical speed then the carb will start leaking maybe the missing filter is causing that too? Another thing that found is that the breather pipe might be blocked it the tank and creates pressure inside the tank.
Any comments on those ?
I will start from the tank I will oerder the Motorcycle Fuel Tank Repair Kit POR15 and start from that. I am off work next week so that gives me plenty of time to do it. That kit contains other chemicals to clean and remove the rust before you apply the coat so I wont be doing the electrolisis part from your post. Yesterday I opened the taps and exept from a few pices of rust that I found on both of them on the left hand one I also discovered that the internal gauze filter is missing. So I will order one of those too. Maybe the lack of this filter causes the leak as it allows the rust to go through? Maybe . On youtube i found a video that shows that of the petrol goes through with enough mechanical speed then the carb will start leaking maybe the missing filter is causing that too? Another thing that found is that the breather pipe might be blocked it the tank and creates pressure inside the tank.
Any comments on those ?
cm246
Guest
Should I add a few bolts and a chain as well as other posts suggest in order to get rid of the rust/coat?
+1!!!
You either can or can't do this; a half hearted approach is no good. If the butterfly shaft o-ring is worn, the carb will suck air and be difficult to balance, and you need a special peening tool for the small brass screws on the shaft (along with a modicum of experience at doing it). Soooo, I would go the whole hog and send them to Steve Scriminger. They will come back as new with the peace of mind that they are good for a loooooong time.
Gentle advice from someone who has "been there.."
Regards
Eng
My R80GS is at Steve's at the moment for a full service & set up, plus sort out the tappety noise on the LH pot.
I think I'll ring him tomorrow & get him to do that full carb service whilst he's got it.
Thanks for the tip folks
SJRoome
Registered user
Hi
I found the electrolysis method got rid of the loose coating very effectively. If you prefer to use an old chain or set of nuts and bolts that works too, but because of the shape of the tank it is quite difficult to clear the entire internal surface this way. You will need to get rid of all the loose stuff before you start using the POR kit.
The missing filter wont effect the leak, it will just mean that the rubbish from the tank will end up in the inline fuel filters. I would advise fitting one though.
If the breather pipe is blocked it restricts the fuel flow, not increases it.
The reason for the leak wont be anything eosoteric like fuel velocity. It will be something like rust stuck on the bush the float needle seats on, or rust on the tip of the float needle, or an old float needle whose rubber tip has hardened, or simply an incorrectly fitted float bowl gasket.
I had one very persistent leak that took me days to diagnose and cure. This was due to damage of the face of the seat of the float valve. This was difficult to cure since it required regrinding the valve seat. Most leaks are nothing like as difficult to cure as this.
Steve
I found the electrolysis method got rid of the loose coating very effectively. If you prefer to use an old chain or set of nuts and bolts that works too, but because of the shape of the tank it is quite difficult to clear the entire internal surface this way. You will need to get rid of all the loose stuff before you start using the POR kit.
The missing filter wont effect the leak, it will just mean that the rubbish from the tank will end up in the inline fuel filters. I would advise fitting one though.
If the breather pipe is blocked it restricts the fuel flow, not increases it.
The reason for the leak wont be anything eosoteric like fuel velocity. It will be something like rust stuck on the bush the float needle seats on, or rust on the tip of the float needle, or an old float needle whose rubber tip has hardened, or simply an incorrectly fitted float bowl gasket.
I had one very persistent leak that took me days to diagnose and cure. This was due to damage of the face of the seat of the float valve. This was difficult to cure since it required regrinding the valve seat. Most leaks are nothing like as difficult to cure as this.
Steve
cm246
Guest
And Yes after reading and reading your advise I did the electrolysis in the tank I cleaned but still a great amound of varnish wouldnt shift. I used all the chemicals from the kit and finaly I coated the inside after waiting more than 96 hours just in case. I filled the tank I connected everythibng and whent for a ride.
Everything was working fine but still the right carb will leak but result no crap was found in the float bowles anymore.
Anyway I found two carbs on ebay and there are on their way to Lincs for cleaning and refurbishment.
Today I tried to start the bike and it wouldt start I thing I flooded it in the first time. I wated for a while and then tried again. It started but the engine runs very poorly and it wont idle with the choke closed. I opened the bowles tapped the needles but still no improvement.
What is wrong?
Everything was working fine but still the right carb will leak but result no crap was found in the float bowles anymore.
Anyway I found two carbs on ebay and there are on their way to Lincs for cleaning and refurbishment.
Today I tried to start the bike and it wouldt start I thing I flooded it in the first time. I wated for a while and then tried again. It started but the engine runs very poorly and it wont idle with the choke closed. I opened the bowles tapped the needles but still no improvement.
What is wrong?
SJRoome
Registered user
Hi
It is very difficult to diagnose a problem from a vague set of symptoms. I would suggest following my step by step instructions to sort out the leak first. Then you can address the poor starting and idling.
Has it always been like this or has the problem started recently? If it has started recently you may have one or more blocked idle jets. You could take them out one at a time and clean them with Carb cleaner. You can do this with the carbs on the bike so you wont upset the tune.
If this doesnt improve things you are going to have to retune the carbs. Do you have a carb balancer? If not you could balance the carbs by ear, but this takes experience.
Steve
It is very difficult to diagnose a problem from a vague set of symptoms. I would suggest following my step by step instructions to sort out the leak first. Then you can address the poor starting and idling.
Has it always been like this or has the problem started recently? If it has started recently you may have one or more blocked idle jets. You could take them out one at a time and clean them with Carb cleaner. You can do this with the carbs on the bike so you wont upset the tune.
If this doesnt improve things you are going to have to retune the carbs. Do you have a carb balancer? If not you could balance the carbs by ear, but this takes experience.
Steve
My R80GS is at Steve's at the moment for a full service & set up, plus sort out the tappety noise on the LH pot.
I think I'll ring him tomorrow & get him to do that full carb service whilst he's got it.
Thanks for the tip folks
Got the bike back from SED a couple of weeks ago & been out riding it ever since !
What a difference
He changed all the fluids, gave the carbs a bloody good service & clean out, & set it up properly for the Kiehin exhaust (without the balancer pipe)
the tappity noise turned out to be an under shimmed exhaust rocker.
She flies along now.
This weekend I'm fitting my Migsel sidestand, handguards, & a new gear lever rubber, then giving it a bloody good clean.
Got to get some new tyres then ........any recommendations ? I'd like to do some light off-road use, but mainly roads - although I'm considering taking it to the Picos this back-end & I know there are some nice trails over there.
Mate... clean it first
I going to try Scorpions like I had on my 950 ADV. They worked well on the black stuff.
John
cm246
Guest
Got the bike back from SED a couple of weeks ago & been out riding it ever since !
What a difference
He changed all the fluids, gave the carbs a bloody good service & clean out, & set it up properly for the Kiehin exhaust (without the balancer pipe)
the tappity noise turned out to be an under shimmed exhaust rocker.
She flies along now.
This weekend I'm fitting my Migsel sidestand, handguards, & a new gear lever rubber, then giving it a bloody good clean.
Got to get some new tyres then ........any recommendations ? I'd like to do some light off-road use, but mainly roads - although I'm considering taking it to the Picos this back-end & I know there are some nice trails over there.
Hi mate how much did it cost you for the all the above?
cm246
Guest
Right I dont want to give it a bad spell but.... On Saturday I cleaned the carbs with Carb spray and took out the idle jets and cleaned them too. Result the Bikes starts and runs ok and I have been to work and back today without any Leaks from the cabs at all. ! I am still waiting for the carbs from Scriminger but if the bike continues to run as it runs now I will leave it as it is.
Thank you all for you help and knowledge.
Thank you all for you help and knowledge.
cm246
Guest
No guess what!!!..........................................the right hand one has started to leak ! $^"($^"&$%^"%
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