Centech fuse panel with relay kit
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If you connect directly the auxiliary devices can flatten the battery. You can buy a relay for £5 and with some cables and connections you are away! Here's a write up I did earlier for the XT660.com forum...
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I want to run quite a few additional electrical devices on my Tenere
- heated grips
- Gerbing heated jacket
- auxilliary spotlights
- Garmin Zumo GPS
- DIN socket to run power into a tank bag
All of these need fuses and the easy way to provide fused power is to connect a Centech fuse box to the battery terminals, then run the wires from there to the devices. You can buy the Centech fuse box at £40 from Nippy Norman.
The Centech unit holds five fuses, the inner three handle two connections each, the outer two handle one connection, so up to eight devices can be powered at once with 5amp, 10amp, 15amp or 20amp fuses.
But in all cases I wanted switchable power--in other words, when the ignition is off, the devices are off. The way to do this is to insert a relay between the positive battery power and the fusebox. The relay is activated by a feed coming from the sidelight near the instrument panel.
The four relay terminals are labelled 30, 85, 86 and 87. These are connected as follows:
- 30: positive battery terminal
- 85: cable from sidelight
- 86: earth (or negative battery terminal)
- 87: Centech unit
There's space for the Centech unit under the seat with the relay tucked away next to the positive battery terminal. The thin red wire coming from the front is the feed from the sidelight.
All the cable lengths were worked out in advance whilst the combo was assembled in the warmth of the kitchen. All that's missing from the wiring is the feed from the sidelight into the relay. Terminal spades were insulated before fitting.
The finished installation. Most of the devices will be simple plug ins to each side of the fusebox, the exception will be the aux lights which will also have an on/off switch. Simple.
Tim
__________________________________________________________________________
I want to run quite a few additional electrical devices on my Tenere
- heated grips
- Gerbing heated jacket
- auxilliary spotlights
- Garmin Zumo GPS
- DIN socket to run power into a tank bag
All of these need fuses and the easy way to provide fused power is to connect a Centech fuse box to the battery terminals, then run the wires from there to the devices. You can buy the Centech fuse box at £40 from Nippy Norman.
The Centech unit holds five fuses, the inner three handle two connections each, the outer two handle one connection, so up to eight devices can be powered at once with 5amp, 10amp, 15amp or 20amp fuses.
But in all cases I wanted switchable power--in other words, when the ignition is off, the devices are off. The way to do this is to insert a relay between the positive battery power and the fusebox. The relay is activated by a feed coming from the sidelight near the instrument panel.
The four relay terminals are labelled 30, 85, 86 and 87. These are connected as follows:
- 30: positive battery terminal
- 85: cable from sidelight
- 86: earth (or negative battery terminal)
- 87: Centech unit
There's space for the Centech unit under the seat with the relay tucked away next to the positive battery terminal. The thin red wire coming from the front is the feed from the sidelight.
All the cable lengths were worked out in advance whilst the combo was assembled in the warmth of the kitchen. All that's missing from the wiring is the feed from the sidelight into the relay. Terminal spades were insulated before fitting.
The finished installation. Most of the devices will be simple plug ins to each side of the fusebox, the exception will be the aux lights which will also have an on/off switch. Simple.
Tim
Nice write-up, Tim 
Shep
Shep of the Dessert
I've always run mine without the relay, but i don't ever leave anything connected that would drain it
If I had a garage, perhaps i may be tempted to leave a GPS in place overnight in which case the relay would be an advantage
If I had a garage, perhaps i may be tempted to leave a GPS in place overnight in which case the relay would be an advantage
Onwalkabout
Registered user
I would always prefer a relay. That way if there is a horrible burning smell coming from underneath it is easy to isolate the power to all of the accessories very quickly. Fuses are usually adequate but sometimes they are not enough (such as a wire rubbing through).
1Rider
Registered user
AP-1 versus AP-2
+1 as Tim says for AP-1
An even better solution, may be the AP-2 where you have the flexibility to use a relay for all, none, or about half of the connections
PS I got a Centech AP-2 after a special request to NN
+1
as Tim says for AP-1An even better solution, may be the AP-2 where you have the flexibility to use a relay for all, none, or about half of the connections
PS I got a Centech AP-2 after a special request to NN
Just wondering Tim if you can recommend a make/model of the type of relay you used, looks like a trip to maplins may be on the cards
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Probably this one: http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?TabID=1&criteria=usb&ModuleNo=6436&C=SO&U=Strat15 but 30 amp might be enough--depends on what you are planning to run.
rockchunk
Registered user
thanks for that tim
Best way to take the feed for the relay
I am currently wiring this in and now I have to find the switched feed for the relay. One site recommended using a wire from the diagnostic plug but those wires are very short and I am not sure how to connect to it.
Is there another place you would recommend and again how do I connect the wire from the relay to it.
Sorry if this sounds a dumb question but I try to keep my electrics simple and not tamper with exiting wires
Thanks
I am currently wiring this in and now I have to find the switched feed for the relay. One site recommended using a wire from the diagnostic plug but those wires are very short and I am not sure how to connect to it.
Is there another place you would recommend and again how do I connect the wire from the relay to it.
Sorry if this sounds a dumb question but I try to keep my electrics simple and not tamper with exiting wires
Thanks
mr badger
Registered user
Just done this and took the trigger voltage from the acessory socket under tte tool tray. Used one of those Scotch thingies.
red line
Registered user
DO NOT USE THE WIRE FROM THE DIAGNOSTICS PLUG !!!
i did this and when bike went in for service 2 weeks ago, they could not do any software updates as it was giving error messages. so had to take it off and wired it off the headlight
red line
Registered user
what switch are people using for aux lights and accessories and where have you placed it.
gipsymagpie
Registered user
dangerous amps through aux light switch
Just a thought but doesn't that mean you have the full amps for the Aux lights going through the Aux light switch? Shouldn't there be another relay for the Aux lights?
The finished installation. Most of the devices will be simple plug ins to each side of the fusebox, the exception will be the aux lights which will also have an on/off switch. Simple.
Tim
NLC
Registered user
I went for a Fuzeblock from Nippy Normans. Very good service from the manufacturer in the US and has the ability to convert circuits from switched to constant as it has a built in relay. Installed it and very good. Rather than use the live from the side light I took it from the accessory socket from the plug under the beak plugged into the satnav. I used the satnav loom as if there was ever a problem easy to disconnect.
gipsymagpie
Registered user
Finished install
I have used the dipped headlight as my trigger. The main advantage is that the wiretap I used (Posi-tap) is now inside the headlight unit and therefore away from water's way. The relay supplied with the AP-170R is 70A which let's you use the full potential of the AP-1. As Tim says, you probably don't need that much juice. The AP-170R does make for a really neat install (and really easy for relay newbies because each wire is labeled).
I have used the dipped headlight as my trigger. The main advantage is that the wiretap I used (Posi-tap) is now inside the headlight unit and therefore away from water's way. The relay supplied with the AP-170R is 70A which let's you use the full potential of the AP-1. As Tim says, you probably don't need that much juice. The AP-170R does make for a really neat install (and really easy for relay newbies because each wire is labeled).
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