Chain adjustment

[edwardsinbrum]

The riders handbook for the 800GS gives a recommended slackness for the chain of 35-45 mm with the bike on the sidestand with no weight applied. As it's easier to adjust on the centre stand is there a recommended range for then?

 

[mrjim130]

Set adjustment on side stand, then put on centre stand and make a note of the measurement. Simples

 

[Micky]

Set adjustment on side stand, then put on centre stand and make a note of the measurement. Simples

Indeed .... check for that play on the side stand and pop it on to the centre stand to adjust. Drop it back on to the side stand for final check

Only takes two minutes. Tip ... once the chain does start to wear it will have tight spots, shove the bike backwards and forwards, or while on the centre stand, spin by hand ... and find the tight spot. Adjust to above clearances at the tight spot, possibly slightly less (tighter). It will do far more harm and damage if the chain is too tight, rather than a little slack

Tip ... change the chain and sprockets at the same time, altogether!

Tip ... use original BMW sprockets and a good make chain (DID Gold Professional)

Tip ... pay your twelve quid subs and get far more out of this site than you could ever imagine (if you use it right)

Tip ... welcome to UKGSer

 

[ymfb]

I was hoping this question might unearth so ideas other than checking on side stand and adjusting on centre stand. It's the one thing I dislike about my F800GS and the most likely reason I will end up buying a 1200.

I bought a chain from Greg Masters on here and the sprockets from Touratech.

 

[Micky]

It's the one thing I dislike about my F800GS and the most likely reason I will end up buying a 1200.

It's five minutes work every few thousand miles for heavens sake

103,000 + miles here and even on a European tour might just adjust it once in three weeks

You don't even need to get your hands dirty

 

[Wapping]

Spot on advice from Micky.

I've always thought there is some simple pleasure in adjusting a motorcycle's chain. Basic mechanics ..... But with a very small 'm'

 

[cookie]

Whatever the book says, the most important thing is for the chain adjustment to be correct with the rider on on the bike and the suspension compressed as it would be in use.

Owners of bike with concentric mounted swing arms can disregard that advice

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

Whatever the book says, the most important thing is for the chain adjustment to be correct with the rider on on the bike and the suspension compressed as it would be in use.

Spot on advice

Many people get it wrong & it's too tight - even BMW & it's recommendations

 

[mrjim130]

Chain adjustment is hardly a chore. I've done 7k this year used Wurth dry chain lube and only needed to adjust the chain a couple of times. Chain and sprockets come a lot cheaper than a final drive failure on a 1200!

 

[nig5]

Spot on advice

Many people get it wrong & it's too tight - even BMW & it's recommendations

Every time I have the bike serviced the BM dealer adjusts it too tight and I loosen it off
Had some tyres fitted by an indepandant dealer the other week and they adjusted the chain perfectly "because it has long travel suspension and you don`t want the chain too tight"

I check the chain adjustment on the side-stand, if it needs tightening do so on the main stand and check it again on the side-stand a good quality chain (unlike the original!) will last for ages and hardly need adjusting.

 

[Micky]

Whatever the book says, the most important thing is for the chain adjustment to be correct with the rider on on the bike and the suspension compressed as it would be in use.

Errrrr mmmmmm with respect not quite right

The important thing is that when the gearbox sprocket centre, the swing arm pivot point AND the rear wheel axle are all in a dead straight line THAT is where the chain will be at its tightest, and wants adjusting, irrespective of loads etc.

When on the side stand these three points are just about in a straight line .....

Any wheel movement up or down will make the chain more slack

 

[cookie]

Errrrr mmmmmm with respect not quite right

The important thing is that when the gearbox sprocket centre, the swing arm pivot point AND the rear wheel axle are all in a dead straight line THAT is where the chain will be at its tightest, and wants adjusting, irrespective of loads etc.

When on the side stand these three points are just about in a straight line .....

Any wheel movement up or down will make the chain more slack

yes, you're right. i was just offering a practical way of checking.

if you want the best adjustment possible, take the shock out and jack the swing arm up until it's in line as you suggest. alternatively, put the bike on a bench, on a stand under the swing arm, and winch the bike down on a strap across the rear sub frame somewhere.

or just sit on it and get it as close as possible

try not to trap your thumb between chain and sprocket when rolling forward to check throughout chain run