chain damage??

[Greggers]

I had trouble centralising the three legged puller, two legs set into the bottom of the tooth while one was on a tip. I found it easier with a bit of old chain wrapped round the sprocket, the legs grip the links easier (needs a high quality extractor with thin arm tips). I made a small threaded insert with a centralising dimple to fit into the drive shaft end to try stop the puller slipping off, I was applying so much force it stripped the thread on my extractor.
I do not think a slide hammer is a very good idea, the sideways forces are going through the gearbox bearing in a direction they are not designed for.

I agree entirely with you, but I too bolloxed a conventional puller trying to get the fukker off - sometimes impact technology is the only option ...

G

 

[tosh23]

I think the trouble is that heat is not an option, I would imagine that even heating up the teeth on the sprocket would transfer heat through to the rubber seal...
Impacting action I think would be the very last action but as you say when all else fails then you have no option, Perhaps a little of both, a little heat and a little impact force...
I think i'm a little lucky because I have got the time to use penetration oil for a month or so, still that is no guarantee...I cant honestly think of any other way to remove the sprocket from it's interference fit...Why don't they just wipe the tiniest amount of copper slip onto the splines before installation...
Im going to search this wonderful thing called the Internet for any other options....I am also going to go over to the 1150 section because they might have some sort of magical answer that no one else would even consider....Tosh

 

[v8legend]

.I am also going to go over to the 1150 section because they might have some sort of magical answer that no one else would even consider....Tosh

I'd imagine there's quite a large thread relating to chains and sprockets over there.

 

[Dean]

I am also going to go over to the 1150 section because they might have some sort of magical answer that no one else would even consider....Tosh

I'd imagine there's quite a large thread relating to chains and sprockets over there.

I would avoid the 12 huners

 

[JayC]

I cant honestly think of any other way to remove the sprocket from it's interference fit...Why don't they just wipe the tiniest amount of copper slip onto the splines before installation...

It's not an interference fit, if it were you would never get it off!

If you have a month at your disposal then I would suggest using a puller. Set the tension on the puller and leave it overnight. Also apply some penetrating fluid on the first day. The following day try a little more tension on the puller. Keep repeating this process until it gives.

You could apply a little heat around the sprocket, but not the shaft. This area will reach fairly high temps when in normal use anyway so as long as you don't go mad with the the heating process you should be ok.
The idea is to warm it up, not make it hot.

Good luck!

 

[Dave Ett]

If you have a month you could hacksaw through it!

 

[Dean]

there is allways HERE

 

[tosh23]

Now that's a thought...Has anyone ever grind ed through a sprocket ?
Also I know its not an interference fit but it's as tight as one...
Yeah, thinking about it, grinding.....

 

[JayC]

Now that's a thought...Has anyone ever grind ed through a sprocket ?
Also I know its not an interference fit but it's as tight as one...
Yeah, thinking about it, grinding.....

Think about the grinder option very carefully. I don't know the gap behind the sprocket without looking at mine, but lets suppose it is 10mm. In order to get full penetration of the grinder just above the spline (impossible), but right through the sprocket, you will need a grinder that measures 19mm dia + 2x the thickness of the sprocket. This means .020" clearance before your grinding/slitting disc touches the face of the casing behind the sprocket. Although in reality this is impossible because you cannot get to the centre of the disc or get the centre of the disc to the back face (break through point) of the sprocket!
If you use something like a Dremel, where it can be attacked by holding the Dremel at 90* to the sprocket then the cutting disc will need to be a larger dia to allow for the interference between the centre of the disc and the body of the Dremel + the thickness of the sprocket.

The larger dia the disc the further you will be from the sprocket bore, at the spline dia.

Draw a circle the dia of the disc, now measure the gap between sprocket back face and the casing. Record this gap and then from the right hand side of your drawn circle draw a vertical line inside the circle, the same distance as the gap you recorded, and you will now see how far away you are from the bottom/centre line of that circle.
In order to break through the sprocket at the spline dia you need to reach the bottom of the disc- again, impossible without making a real pigs ear of the job!

 

[tosh23]

Jay,
You've just shot me down to bits mate..ohh well.When your right,your right and your right mate..
Ive had a fantastic response on here and on the 1150 side, I will digest all the feedback and get to work....
Pics will obviously included...Tosh

 

[Dave Ett]

There's nothing for it. Have to treat yourself to a lazer cutter.

 

[tosh23]

Dave, that would take one hell of a lot of brownie points....Hmmm ..laser cutter, I wonder how much...Laser cutter...would she ? Hmmm laser cutter...I love tools and I haven't got one of those shiny shiny laser cutters...Tosh

 

[Micky]

Always use the genuine sprocket

Always use the correct grease

Put several chains and sprockets on over the 76,000+ miles

N E V E R had a problem getting the sprocket off, just eased off by hand

 

[tosh23]

Micky, its a new bike to me, the previous owner must have rode through the winters without any acf50 or such..A tiny amount of copper slip goes a very long way....
By the time im finished every nut, bolt, screw and washer will say hello to copper grease, or thread lock...Tosh