Chain replacement coming up...

ILMV

Registered user
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
601
Reaction score
0
Location
Taunton, England
So I'm almost hitting 25k miles, 15k miles ago my original BMW chain was replaced (perhaps with a similar one) because of a snap in a link. Now I'm finding myself with a chain that is perfectly adjusted in one position, but rotate the wheel and the chain soon becomes severely loose, far past the 4.5cm max.

It's making a bloody horrible noise when riding, thus I'm going to change it and the sprockets.

In this thread someone recommends the DID Gold HD chain, do I remember that someone here was selling them... perhaps Greggers? (That's a wild guess by the way).

Also suggests standard BMW sprockets, does anyone know if those supplied by motorworks are original?

I found a DID chain + sprockets (no idea of model) for £156, not sure if that's right or a good price though.


Any advice would be pukker. Cheers!
 
If you are doing sprockets too double check the size of the carrier bolts in the rear - not all bikes have them the same size so if you are ordering a kit it may come with the wrong size. I think earlier models had the 8mm and later ones 10mm.

I've a Renthal front, JT rear and DID 525 VX from www.bandcexpress.co.uk Can't remember pricing but i think it all cost about £120 - £130. If they don't have the kit with exactly the bits you want you can call them and they'll put one together and give a bit of a discount. Also got the chain open with a circlip type link which i had to cut down by a couple of links.

Very happy with the quality of all parts so far...

S
 
And if you're doing 99% road miles, get the front sprocket for an F650GS, as it raises the gearing a little, dropping cruising RPM by 500. Makes for a little better consumption and a less buzzy ride at 70+
 
Greg Masters he sells decent chains

:thumb2

525 faux-Gold plate, HD X-ring chains - 118 links including split link (or cut shorter as required).

Tossers' price - £36
Matching rivet link - £4.50

Postage - UPS £8.99
MyHermes £7.49

Payments by PayPal gift

Greg
 
A little bit off topic but can someone please answer.

Are there any issues with running a conventional spring clip o-ring master link as opposed to a soft rivet link type of master link?

I have been curious about this. I have a proper clamp type tool for fitting a clip type master link but not the rivet type tool. Not that I have anything against buying the riveting tool, I just want to know if it is really necessary or if there is any difference. Thanks and sorry for the brief hijack.
 
Are there any issues with running a conventional spring clip o-ring master link as opposed to a soft rivet link type of master link?

Most trail bike run a spring link quite reliably despite the challenges of the riding terrain.

Failures of spring links are nearly always associated with poor fitting - if the circlip is even the slightest bit bent; if it is not fully secured in the circlip grooves or fitted facing the wrong way, failure is likely.

I now use a rivet link on my trail bike, but only because the circlip on the OE chain was rubbing on a chain guide until it broke in two.

Rivet links also need to be fitted carefully. Later this evening, I'll post a picture of one I did earlier.

Greg
 
I found a DID chain + sprockets (no idea of model) for £156, not sure if that's right or a good price though.


Any advice would be pukker. Cheers!

Have a chat with the guys at Talon engineering regards sprockets, and may do them in different sizes.

I got a front and rear sprocket for my XChallenge for under £40, and my current chain is also one of Gregs, as i think were the previous 2 chains i had on the bike. :thumb

All in i managed to do mine for about £70, though i just opted for a standard O-ring chain.

HTH

nathan
 
Good effort Greg, will probably take you up on that offer.

Will I need a tool to slap a link back in the chain? Also are the sprockets on motorworks sufficient... or should I be looking at something else?
 
:thumb2

525 faux-Gold plate, HD X-ring chains - 118 links including split link (or cut shorter as required).

Tossers' price - £36
Matching rivet link - £4.50

Had a D.I.D gold link on previous bike, loved it...

Looking to get another for my F8... but there's at least a few different types of gold link chains that I've seen: 525vm2, 525zvmx, 525vxgb. My question is what's the difference???

What is the one you're selling and how does it differ from the others?

:beerjug:
 
Have a chat with the guys at Talon engineering regards sprockets, and may do them in different sizes.

I got a front and rear sprocket for my XChallenge for under £40, and my current chain is also one of Gregs, as i think were the previous 2 chains i had on the bike. :thumb

All in i managed to do mine for about £70, though i just opted for a standard O-ring chain.

HTH

nathan

That's handy, as Talon engineering are a client of mine :P, will give them a ring next week.
 
Rivet links also need to be fitted carefully.

IMG_0936.jpg



In my view, the very best chain tool is a DID tool (or a decent copy) like this:

$(KGrHqZ,!h!E6ZZ59PJ-BOu7l4CnQw~~60_12.JPG


Anything that looks like a G-clamp should be avoided.

:hammer

Greg
 
It looks like a G-clamp. The jaws eventually spread when riveting links.

:rolleyes:

Have you personally used this item and found it inferior? I want a chain breaker, ideally that will rivet, for my travel repair kit so it can't be humungous... any ideas? Perhaps these 'G-Clamp' style gizmo's are better suited to the clips rather than the rivets???
 
Have you personally used this item and found it inferior? I want a chain breaker, ideally that will rivet, for my travel repair kit so it can't be humungous... any ideas? Perhaps these 'G-Clamp' style gizmo's are better suited to the clips rather than the rivets???

I haven't used that exact one, but the tool I now keep as a spare looks just as good. I found a problem when using it on a rivet link. As you wind up the pressure to peen the link, the G clamp just spreads slightly resulting in the peening pressure not being applied in the exact line of the chain pin. It did the job, but didn't look very neat.

The tool I showed above is much more robust and cannot possibly splay. It is a little more fiddly to use as it has to be assembled around the chain and similarly disassembled.

Greg
 
Have you personally used this item and found it inferior? I want a chain breaker, ideally that will rivet, for my travel repair kit so it can't be humungous... any ideas? Perhaps these 'G-Clamp' style gizmo's are better suited to the clips rather than the rivets???

I've got a motion pro chain breaker in my bike tool kit- it's proved good enough to get me out of trouble on a few occassions :blast.

Got it from adventure spec.
 


Back
Top Bottom