Chains...

[Smythson]

Afternoon all,

Being somewhat new to the world of bikes these may be SFQ's but i have just read the 22 page sticky and still have some details i was hoping you guys could firm up -

1. On a 658 with standard gearing (17/41?) i should be looking for a DID X-Ring 525 with 118 links? (any recommended brands or distributers would be great)

2. A spring clip - does this require a special tool to separate? (I'm looking to avoid taking the swingarm off if at all possible)

3. Is it always necessary to change sprockets at the same time? (Current ones have seen a light use for 6000 miles and don't appear worn or hooked as per recent stuck sprocket post)

Any info would be gratefully received,

S

 

[Greg Masters]

No special tools are required to join a chain with a spring clip - but lots of people manage to feck it up and then wonder why the chain fails!

• ALWAYS use a joining link that is made to match the chain you are using - joining links are NOT universally interchangable
• Ensure chain wheels are properly aligned
• Failures of joining links are nearly always due to poor fitting
• If using a cliclip link, remove and fit the circlip with proper chain circlip pliers
• The circlip should not be bent or twisted at all
• The closed end of the circlip should be towards the direction of chain travel
• When fitting the circlip ensure that it is fully seated in both pin grooves
• If you have to force anything, you're doing it wrong!
• Rivet/soft links need to be fitted with a decent chain tool. The DID tool is the best (copies of this tool are plentiful on eBay). Read the tool's instructions BEFORE you cock the job up!

There are lots of decent chains out there. As a benchmark, I sell a 525 HD Gold X-ring to tossers for £36 plus postage.

Greg

 

[Dave Ett]

It's not strictly neccesary to change the sprockets if they're undamaged, but generally they're pretty worn by the time the chain is dead, and since they don't really cost much and should last 20,000 miles it would seem folly not to do it at the same time as the chain.

Be annoying having to change the chain, then 6000 miles later change the sprockets...

 

[v8legend]

Be annoying having to change the chain, then 6000 miles later change the sprockets...

Followed by changing your newly knackered chain!

Change them both at the same time.

A worn chain will knacker new sprockets.
Worn sprockets will knacker a new chain.

 

[Greggers]

Check the pics I posted in the last few days in 'seized front sprocket' ...

My rear was almost unmarked after 14k miles, the front was 7/10 fooked. My chain was slapping about like a ten bob tart and wouldn't stay in correct tension but off the bike it looked fine .

G

 

[divelandy]

Can't you just turn it around and wear the other side?

 

[Greggers]

Yes of course you could - in an emergency lol...

In my case I think it was the chain that gave up first, the rear was certainly useable and had the chain been ok-ish, the front would still ave been serviceable for another few thousand miles.

I've seen sprockets whose teeth have been worn to toothpicks - but with a knackered chain it doesn't really make any difference. It's when the teeth actually disappear to leave nothing but slight depressions in the chainwheel that you really need to think about replacing them - and that's only because it feels like the clutch is slipping lol..

G

 

[old-man-andy]

Been following this thread as my chain has been slowly "stretching" over the last month with the tight spots getting increasingly difficult to adjust out.

Yesterday, over the course a 100 mile ride, the chain developed a rather unpleasant, high-frquency sideways slap and vibration under very light load (motorway cruising speed) causing the plastic chain guard to get a bit thinner in places!!!.

So, a couple of questions before I start wielding tools and swearing a lot;

1. Will a chain splitter/riveter tool split the continuous CZ chain? Or will I need to get the angle grinder out?

2. Greg Masters - what are "chain circlip pliers"? I've searched t'internet but to no avail!

Cheers Andy

 

[Greg Masters]

1. Will a chain splitter/riveter tool split the continuous CZ chain? Or will I need to get the angle grinder out?

2. Greg Masters - what are "chain circlip pliers"? I've searched t'internet but to no avail!

Silverline make motorcycle chain circlip pliers (although they appear to have dropped off their catalogue at the moment). They can be found on eBay - search for chain link pliers.

If you have an angle grinder, grind the head off a rivet before you try to push through with a chain splitter.

The best riveter is the DID KM500R chain tool. They are not cheap but are excellent tools. Cheaper clones are also available from eBay which should be just as good.

Greg

 

[old-man-andy]

Silverline make motorcycle chain circlip pliers (although they appear to have dropped off their catalogue at the moment). They can be found on eBay - search for chain link pliers.

If you have an angle grinder, grind the head off a rivet before you try to push through with a chain splitter.

The best riveter is the DID KM500R chain tool. They are not cheap but are excellent tools. Cheaper clones are also available from eBay which should be just as good.

Greg

Ah, thanks for that.

ps. Chain order on its way to you.

Cheers Andy