Changing the battery - tank off?

[davesc]

Hi all,

I'm sure this must have come up before - I've searched, but couldn't find anything in the multitude of battery threads!

Do I need to take the tank right off to change the battery on a R1100GS? Or should I be able to prop it up enough to get enough clearance?

Cheers

Dave

 

[Flipfly]

You can prop it up, but easier to remove.

Beware of the terminals touching the inside of the tank.

 

[plrb]

Battery oot

Changed mine on the GSA without removal, had a 4 &6 " blocks of wood at ready, worked no problems.

 

[Jon]

should I be able to prop it up enough to get enough clearance?

Yes I used a rubber mallet. Rubber end on the edge of the tank, wooden grip downwards. Bit fiddley, but worked.

Failing that, only takes a few minutes to whip the tank off. Don't try it full though - DAMHIK

 

[Fanum]

Changed mine on the GSA without removal, had a 4 &6 " blocks of wood at ready, worked no problems.

They didn't do an 1100 GSA





FWIW, if it's the first time you've done it and you've not had the tank off before, take it off to change the battery.....it'll be a good exercise to familiarise yourself with how easy it is, plus you'll get to see what's going on underneath the tank.

Make sure you have a lump of carpet on the deck before you remove the tank, so you can plonk it down on that.

You CAN swap the battery out without removing the tank though, if you're short of time

 

[Steptoe]

No need to touch the tank to charge the battery. Just remove the starter motor cover (one bolt) and attach the charger positive lead leads to the starter positive terminal (this is the battery positive terminal) and the earth to the bolt that holds the starter motor in place.

Saves all the fecking about lifting tanks.

 

[Paul G (BHT)]

No need to touch the tank to charge the battery.....

Bakerman is that you?........ he said change not charge

 

[davesc]

FWIW, if it's the first time you've done it and you've not had the tank off before, take it off to change the battery.....it'll be a good exercise to familiarise yourself with how easy it is, plus you'll get to see what's going on underneath the tank.

That's good advice and I probably should take the tank off. I'm mainly concerned about disconnecting the various fuel pipes. I take it they won't just drain fuel out once disconnected, as the fuel supply to the injectors is pumped?

Cheers

Dave

 

[Paul G (BHT)]

.... I take it they won't just drain fuel out once disconnected, as the fuel supply to the injectors is pumped?

Wrong.... one will pish fuel out.

Get yourself an M8 bolt with a couple of winds (only 2) insulating tape wrapped round it. One pipe will be fine and if you're quick you can place the bolt in the other to stop the ensuing deluge of fuel.

Make sure you reconnect the pipes the correct way round.

We will await your next post telling us your bike now runs rough a fek after removing/replacing the tank

 

[ian6760]

Once you put the tank back on you will probably need to reseat the right hand side throttle cable, or the bike will run like a bag of shite and you'll panic and think you've killed it.

We've all been there.

 

[ian6760]

Sorry Paul, I've ruined the surprise.

 

[Steptoe]

Bakerman is that you?........ he said change not charge

Doooooooooohhhhhh

 

[Dragon Master]

When you're disconnecting the fuel lines, a good pair of artery forceps is useful. A good fishing tackle shop should sell them, unless you know a surgen...

I clip the forceps on a line, disconnect it, fold the end 2 inches back on itself, then hold it there with a cable tie. Repeat on other line. Maybe mark both bits of one of the lines before you disconect so you know which re-fits which...

 

[davesc]

Thanks for the advice so far - what's the deal with 'depressurising the fuel system' as described in the Clymer manual?
Everyone is saying just disconnect the lines, but is there a significant amount of fuel pressure in the system, to be concerned about.

Cheers

Dave

 

[Paul G (BHT)]

Everyone is saying just disconnect the lines, but is there a significant amount of fuel pressure in the system, to be concerned about.

That's what the M8 bolt with tape around it is for

 

[Packer]

Before you start this technical exploration buy a pair of metal fuel line quick connectors. Plastic versions were fitted to the later 1150's and made tank removal a two minute job. Fit them opposite ways so that you can never mix up the connections. They also solve the fuel pouring out problem.

 

[MattW]

That's what the M8 bolt with tape around it is for

Exacerly.

Two M8 bolts, one with a washer on so you can tell them apart.

Clamp a fuel line, undo the clamp and separate it from the hard plastic line, insert the M8 bolt, refasten clamp.

Courtesy of Steptoe, yonks ago