Clacks , Crunches, or cant get Neutral

[GC6269]

Had mine in for a new clutch line yesterday (it was going rusty) and asked them to have a look at the gearbox.

It came back last night with the line changed and the gearbox mod done. I haven't had a chance to ride it yet but putting it into 1st in the garage and selecting neutral, it's smoother and easier.

Obviously not the best test and it wasn't a massive problem for me anyway, but for now it feels like an improvement.

 

[jonnyp]

Bike mag is out today and Chippy Wood has one on long term test. Only two complaints, notchy great box (difficult neutral etc) and too many of them around !

Just hope the former does not hamper the latter.

Now, if the roads dry up, I'll go for a ride, don't want to get wet .

 

[needlongerlegs]

HI , had my complete clutch and push rod replaced 200 miles ago ,and cannot see any difference !!!
it has never had any problem finding neutral always very easy . never had any problem with down changes .
always been a terrible change from 1st to 2nd but can accept that with the lower gear ratios and the long gear movement inside the box ,
But changes from 2nd to 3rd really grind some times and also 3rd to 4th .
.
I cannot understand how the problem can be so random with other bikes reporting smooth gear changes. will report this back to bmw to see what the response is ,

Question has anyone had the problem totaly rectified from a bike that had poor gear changes, to acceptable changes and is satisfied .or are BMW just fobbing us all off

Hi Big G. Yup mine is fixed. It wasn't in my head. Bike returned the our fav dealer and rode out on a new one, so after 7500 miles n six months of playing hide n seek with neutral and the shittiest changes I've ever made in 42 years of riding all is well. Now done 1500 on MY14 replacement with out a single gearbox / clutch issue hoorah thank f***. Even passed my gold ROSPA on it yesterday with scary policeman riding two inches off my gear lever. I thought he was going to do a Marques on me LOL.

 

[Emoto]

Had mine in for a new clutch line yesterday (it was going rusty) and asked them to have a look at the gearbox.

It came back last night with the line changed and the gearbox mod done. I haven't had a chance to ride it yet but putting it into 1st in the garage and selecting neutral, it's smoother and easier.

Obviously not the best test and it wasn't a massive problem for me anyway, but for now it feels like an improvement.

Eh? What is it?

 

[GC6269]

Eh? What is it?

If that's a pedantic question then fuck off should cover it. If not, my apologies and it's some push rod or other. Been mentioned on this thread once or twice.

Clutch, gearbox, it's all the same thing.

 

[gsman1]

Clutch mod

I have done 1100 mikes since clutch mod. Never had problem with gear changes but getting neutral was like trying to win the jackpot on the national lottery. Since modification finding neutral better, now with more miles on its easy peasy. Clonck into first still there.

I, like others, was told that it can take up to 500 miles to feel the difference/ benefit of this mod. BMW has obviously told this to all the dealers, so it would be interesting to hear from someone that had the mod done over 500 miles ago, how they are getting on.

 

[Delboy777]

I, like others, was told that it can take up to 500 miles to feel the difference/ benefit of this mod. BMW has obviously told this to all the dealers, so it would be interesting to hear from someone that had the mod done over 500 miles ago, how they are getting on.

Im sorry but that is a load of bollocks, it either works or it doesnt. They are feeding you a line AFAIC.By the way the clutch on my new non toilet GSA is silky smooth

 

[Emoto]

If that's a pedantic question then fuck off should cover it. If not, my apologies and it's some push rod or other. Been mentioned on this thread once or twice.

Clutch, gearbox, it's all the same thing.

I am simply trying to gather as much detail as possible, because here in the states "nobody knows nothin'" so if my own problems persist, I'd like to furnish details to my dealer.

 

[DING-DONG]

Had mine in for a new clutch line yesterday (it was going rusty.

Strange you should say the above i noticed on my 2013 bike the brake/clutch Line ends/bango's had clear plastic covering and allowed moisture to strap inside the clear plastic, and noticed them tarnishing so i just removed the plastic on the ends with a blade and used a bit of autosol, problem solved.

 

[Engineer]

Hi Big G. Yup mine is fixed. It wasn't in my head. Bike returned the our fav dealer and rode out on a new one, so after 7500 miles n six months of playing hide n seek with neutral and the shittiest changes I've ever made in 42 years of riding all is well. Now done 1500 on MY14 replacement with out a single gearbox / clutch issue hoorah thank f***. Even passed my gold ROSPA on it yesterday with scary policeman riding two inches off my gear lever. I thought he was going to do a Marques on me LOL.

Does it clonk into first or is it perfectly quiet with no clutch drag?

 

[MattW]

Does it clonk into first or is it perfectly quiet with no clutch drag?

Why are you asking this?
I thought it was all in the mind and riders just aren't 'used to' this new fangled wet clutch gearbox

 

[Engineer]

Why are you asking this?
I thought it was all in the mind and riders just aren't 'used to' this new fangled wet clutch gearbox

You are clearly an idiot - I have always said my bike clonks into 1st like many wet clutch bikes - my question is quite clear, does his 'fixed' bike still clonk into first or not?

 

[Hammy]

Well, my bike is with the dealer. This time it's had the ESA and drive shaft replaced.

While the bikes been in I've had the use of a 1200 rt and a gs adventure. The gearboxes on both were so much better. I liked a lot of things about the adventure but my LC still had the edge for me. The RT wasn't my cup of tea but there were things I did like about it

On both bikes the ESA was much better than mine....but that why mine is in....it makes all sorts of noises

I can't wait to get my LC back. If the ESA/driveshaft have fixed the issue I'll be over the moon. This year I've rode the explorer, cross tourer, gs adventure, 1200 RT, R1 (my last girl) and the GS LC. The LC is easily the best bike (once this issue has been resolved). I will live with the clunky gearbox if I can get the rest of the bike right

 

[GC6269]

I am simply trying to gather as much detail as possible, because here in the states "nobody knows nothin'" so if my own problems persist, I'd like to furnish details to my dealer.

Fair play. Mines had a push rod(?) replaced. Apparently the new has one groove not three. This limits the amount of oil going to the clutch, or so I'm lead to believe.

The bike still crunches into first but it is noticeably smoother. Still not perfect and nowhere near as smooth as the air cooled GS I saw the other day. But it is similar to my old Tuono. The rest of the changes also feel better and neutral is easier to find.

Bar the clank into first, I didn't have an issue with my gearbox, but now it's a bit better I'm happy.

 

[skywalker]

I am simply trying to gather as much detail as possible, because here in the states "nobody knows nothin'" so if my own problems persist, I'd like to furnish details to my dealer.

Emoto - your dealers will have the same access portal as the UK dealers. Its a world wide thing so the will have access to the After sales assistance platform - PUMA measures. Sounds like your dealer has his head up his butt !

 

[Emoto]

Emoto - your dealers will have the same access portal as the UK dealers. Its a world wide thing so the will have access to the After sales assistance platform - PUMA measures. Sounds like your dealer has his head up his butt !

He doesn't seem to think it is a problem.

 

[skywalker]

He doesn't seem to think it is a problem.

He Sir is clearly a balloon !

 

[Wyreflyer]

GoPro video with some crunchy changes.

I'm not familiar with videos or editing, but I borrowed a GoPro as a last resort, to try to show BMW why I'm unhappy. This was a short half-hour ride and I just tried to edit some footage.
Got my bike in May and have had 2 new cluches, a new pushrod and the hydraulic fluid lowered, all to not much improvement.
So only having a suction clamp I managed to take some video with the camera in 2 positions on the tank. The sound could be better but the crunches on some of the changes are audible(although the kick-back through
your foot isn't there). 2nd up to 3rd is bad a couple of times and down changes are bad sometimes.
I sent this to BMW UK, who passed the buck back to Southport. They have contacted Germany and next week the bike is going back in for further inspection. Checking the master cylinder operates OK, checking no water in the system,
checking the clutch plates for heat damage, a whole list of stuff which I can't remember.
My question here ,being none technical, is when the gear change crunches it feels like cogs not properly engaging and grinding over each other, then they clunk into position. Is this a clutch problem or is there a selector in the gearbox, which could be getting damaged?

 

[Hammam]

I'm not familiar with videos or editing, but I borrowed a GoPro as a last resort, to try to show BMW why I'm unhappy. This was a short half-hour ride and I just tried to edit some footage.
Got my bike in May and have had 2 new cluches, a new pushrod and the hydraulic fluid lowered, all to not much improvement.
So only having a suction clamp I managed to take some video with the camera in 2 positions on the tank. The sound could be better but the crunches on some of the changes are audible(although the kick-back through
your foot isn't there). 2nd up to 3rd is bad a couple of times and down changes are bad sometimes.
I sent this to BMW UK, who passed the buck back to Southport. They have contacted Germany and next week the bike is going back in for further inspection. Checking the master cylinder operates OK, checking no water in the system,
checking the clutch plates for heat damage, a whole list of stuff which I can't remember.
My question here ,being none technical, is when the gear change crunches it feels like cogs not properly engaging and grinding over each other, then they clunk into position. Is this a clutch problem or is there a selector in the gearbox, which could be getting damaged?

This seems to me like a rider problem. Don' take offense, but I think your shifting technique is wrong:

1) Way too much cutting of the gas. A few rpms will do, not 2000.
2) Way too much clutch in. Only a tiny pull in wit the tip of your fingers (and sometimes none at all once you get the hang of it) will do.
3) No preload up on the gear lever. Preload the gear lever up with your foot.
4) The whole process takes too long.

In other words: preload the gear lever up with your foot, cut the gas by only a tiny amount while while at the same time slightly pulling the clutch lever in with the tip of your finger AND augmenting pressure up on the gear lever, but only slightly. The preload should almost do the trick on its own. And make it quick.

To downshift, use the same technique, but in reverse: preload the shift lever down, give it a bit MORE gas while pulling the clutch lever in slightly. It should go down the gearbox smoothly.

Try it. I'm pretty confident you will not clonk anymore, Or, at least, not that much. I know I don't.

 

[MattW]

This seems to me like a rider problem. Don' take offense, but I think your shifting technique is wrong:

1) Way too much cutting of the gas. A few rpms will do, not 2000.
2) Way too much clutch in. Only a tiny pull in wit the tip of your fingers (and sometimes none at all once you get the hang of it) will do.
3) No preload up on the gear lever. Preload the gear lever up with your foot.
4) The whole process takes too long.

In other words: preload the gear lever up with your foot, cut the gas by only a tiny amount while while at the same time slightly pulling the clutch lever in with the tip of your finger AND augmenting pressure up on the gear lever, but only slightly. The preload should almost do the trick on its own. And make it quick.

To downshift, use the same technique, but in reverse: preload the shift lever down, give it a bit MORE gas while pulling the clutch lever in slightly. It should go down the gearbox smoothly.

Try it. I'm pretty confident you will not clonk anymore, Or, at least, not that much. I know I don't.

Bollocks.

There should be no need to have to trick a modern motorcycle gearbox into changing smoothly. Pre-loading will just bugger the selector forks in the end - it's a solution to a problem that shouldn't exist and will ultimately shorten the life of the box.