Classic Bikes and Dolomites

Daxaar

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I've wanted to do a European tour ever since buying the GS new in 2013 but work and family commitments have never quite aligned until now.

On Thursday 30th June I finished work for twelve weeks of which the first two (and a bit) have been set aside for me to head off to Europe. As this is the first time I've toured Europe this report is unlikely to contain anything you haven't already read about or seen for yourselves.

As much as I tried to plan a route before leaving I simply couldn't muster the enthusiasm and decided beyond a couple of known destinations I'll be making it up as I go along.

The first of those destinations is the 4 hour Classic Endurance race meeting at the Spa Circuit. The second is a hotel booking I've made in Cortina D'Ampezzo in the Dolomites for Wednesday 6th and Thursday 7th July. I'm writing this sat in a campsite in Belfort, France so the first few days of this trip are behind me now. Actually I'm now in Cortina D'Ampezzo! Photo uploading got the better of me so this is somewhat behind.

Here's how it's gone so far...

I left our place in Solihull at 9am Friday morning after seeing the kids off to school for my 13:20 one way crossing on the Eurotunnel. I'm not kidding when I say there's no planning involved here.

Fairly obvious already that I've packed way too much stuff but it's too late now.

Listening to the radio on the M40 on the way down they announced a 3 hour delay on the tunnel. Ah well hopefully they'll have started clearing it before I get there. After the usual drudgery of the M25 and the obligatory tailback caused by accident rubberneckers I arrived at the tunnel just after 12 to be greeted by a queue already forming out onto the M20, oh dear.

My view for the next 45 minutes after filtering to the front of the queue. :rolleyes:



Suffice to say the next 5 hours were spent people watching as the Welsh contingent who were trying to get to Lille for the Euro 2016 game all started kicking off and carnage ensued. :help

I went for some lunch...



I've never had any problems with the tunnel before so I'm not going to complain too much but it became obvious that once it goes wrong, in this case due to two train breakdowns everything goes to shit. I waited patiently like a good boy for my letter (L) to be called but eventually realised nobody was taking any notice of the board and awaiting their call. I therefore decided I'd head up to passport control and was straight through and joined a bunch of other bikers who were letters P, S and R! Another hour in this queue and finally another 30 minutes sat on a stationary train.



My wheels eventually hit French soil at 8pm so my original plan of reaching Spa by early evening had of course long since evaporated. I had friends already at the circuit but decided to check into the Ibis Calais for the evening and start afresh tomorrow.



I've definitely brought too much crap. :blast



Saturday morning I was away by 10 and after a gentle ride down through Belgium arrived at the circuit for 2pm. 25 euros later and I was the proud owner of a piece of prime Spa real estate for the weekend. That'll be me and my two man tent pitched in a car park.

The empty car park is because this one was taken on Sunday evening after the meeting finished and almost everybody had left. I'm the little one in the middle.



Over the course of Saturday and Sunday much alcohol was consumed, a lot of bikes were watched. Warning, from herein there are disturbing selfies of the bald ugly author included.

Hero selfie.



Formula One circuit for classic bikes...

Packed grandstand



VIP bar and terrace. I wonder who you'd need to know to get in here on Formula 1 weekend.



Front row lineup for the classic parade. Of course once away they all quickly forgot they were parade lap, rightly so.



Nice arses



Someone has a bit of spare cash



There's a full weekend of racing but the 4 hour endurance starts at 8pm.



Sunday night campfire saw us burning whatever leftover wood we could find.



As I mentioned I'm now on day 6 in my hotel in Cortina D'Ampezzo. It's just gone midnight so I'll process pics and try and get up to date tomorrow. Essentially it'll involve a single dose of camping, Grimsel, Furka, lost keys, rainbows, Dolomites and 33 degrees. Nothing you haven't already seen :)
 
good man,keep it up
plenty of people should get a boost to their plans reading this!
 
Day 4 - Monday 4th July

Until Sunday evening I wasn't sure if I'd head through Germany into Austria or back down through France after leaving Spa. Well, I decided that I'd head down through France and randomly picked out Belfort as a destination with a view to crossing into Switzerland on Tuesday.

I woke up to a damp but dry Spa car park. However, before everything was packed away it had started raining so some haste was applied and I was on the road just after nine. Apart from the tail end of the day this is my rather boring transit day to get me closer to where the interesting stuff starts.

Wet and cold became the norm for the first half of the day as I headed through Luxembourg. I was undecided on whether to bring my heated jacket on this trip wondering what sort of a wuss I must be to need one in July. However, my Klim gear whilst waterproof doesn't come with any thermal layers so something would be needed and so in it went. Now can anyone please explain what sort of stupidity must have been going through my head whereby I only stopped to put it one once me teeth had actually started chattering! In fairness this was in part because through Luxembourg there just didn't seem to be any covered rest points or services so I kept pushing on reluctant to get off the bike and remove my jacket to fit the heated jacket in the pouring rain.

A suitable stopping point was eventually found, breakfast was consumed and heated jacket adorned. By this point I was ready to leave Luxumbourg behind me.



This was a day of E roads and Autoroute so little photo opportunity. Once I reached Metz the sun started making an appearance but it was short lived and I was soon back into rain again. Only when I reached Nancy did it stop and by 1pm I'd reached Epinal for lunch where the temperature had now climbed from 13 first thing to a rather more accommodating 25 and bright sunshine, that'll do nicely. Lunch was served by the golden arches on this occasion so no gastro shot for this one.

After my stop in Epinal the satnav was telling me I'd arrive in Belfort just after 3pm which got me thinking about pushing on into Switzerland. However, having looked at the route and seeing that it was taking me around the outskirts of the Vosges, I decided to drop a way point right in the middle of the green patch and head in.



My target turned out to be an absolutely stunning town nestled in a valley called Le Val d'Ajol.





As I ascended out of Le Val d'Ajol on some fairly tight single track roads the Nav 4 started acting up constantly switching between the three different screens. I think the wheel on the handlebar is knackered as I never really used it but I have a few times so far on this trip. Anyway, it eventually stopped having a wobbly and allowed me to stay on the map screen where I could eventually figure out which direction I needed to be heading.

Back on course this bike parked at the bus stop in the middle of nowhere presumably by a commuter caught my attention.



I eventually arrived at my destination "Campsite L'Etang des Forges". I had no idea what sort of price they'd charge me so before going into reception I had a quick check on booking.com to see what a hotel would cost me, 35 euros. One night on the campsite (with pool) 18 euros...deal. Belfort is a scenic town overlooked by a large Chateau. The campsite itself is on the outskirts right next to a large lake that appears to host lots of water activities.



For some reason though folk seem to just run around it with large sticks.



Showered fed and watered I've plotted a route to Grimsel Pass tomorrow although looking at the weather it's not looking too good so I'll see how it goes. After I've done Grimsel I'll either head south towards Lake Como and find a campsite or head east towards Stelvio and get a hotel. Is it me or are there very few campsites in Switzerland?

Dinner for the evening was a baguette from the local store and a Wayfarers Chille Con Carne.



Beer, Kindle and Bed. Switzerland tomorrow.

 
I'm in and it's great to hear someone with less planning than I can cope with, mind you I haven't got the same amount of time available.

Keep it up.
 
Day 5 Tuesday 5th

After a poor nights sleep due to my air bed springing a leak I was up and ready to leave the campsite just before 9am. First stop was the local Decathlon to see what sort of replacement sleeping mats they had in stock. 30 euros for a Quencha Exped "substitute". We'll see how that performs when I next camp which won't be for a few nights at least.



Leaving Belfort I plugged the Grimsel Pass into the Sat Nav for no other reason that it's there, the Pass that is, not the Sat Nav. I clock up the miles and quickly find myself across the Swiss border and proudly applying my 40 Euro sticker to the front of my steed.



I'm not sure what type of steed we'd describe this as parked next to me but to make my introduction to Switzerland more interesting they were also blasting out all sorts of cheesy 70 disco from the loudspeaker mounted on the roof. A quick google confirms it was this crazy bunch (http://www.carbagerun.nl/)



I schlepped across Switzerland admiring the general cleanliness, relentless commitment to road infrastructure and amazing lawn mowing abilities of the Swiss.

Lunch before ascending the Grimsel.



Nice view though.



I'm sure most on here have done them many times before but for me the Grimsel was my first Alpine pass and a thoroughly enjoyable one it was too.

On the way to Grimsel. Every corner turned is a photo opportunity and the next corner always seems to be just a bit better than the last.



Having started the climb up the Grimsel, the impressive civil engineering continues.



On towards the top



And finally we make it. Magnificent.



Pretty quiet up here. A welcome theme that will continue.



One with the bike to prove I'm not just stealing someone else's photos :)



And finally just when you thought you'd had enough (bear with me it's my first). A panoramic...



Onward to the Furka having not collected a sticker because at this point I was entirely unaware they were a "thing".

The descent from the Grimsel.




I wasn't so keen on the Furka as the narrower road and tighter switchbacks turned out to not really be my thing. Having progressed a bit further on the trip this is actually more down to my just not being used to them. Amusingly I didn't even plan on doing the Furka or know it was next to the Grimsel. It just happened to be the route the SatNav took me on to my final destination. I only realised when I saw the sign saying it was open "Oh Furka! I've heard of that!". Like I've said, making it up as I go along.



It bit more wordy and less images from herein.

After the two passes I progress east towards my stop for the night at the Hotel Restaurant Hemmi in Churwalden. I'd sorted this on booking.com whilst I waited for the Decathlon to open. It was in the general direction of Cortina D'Ampezzo, my destination for Wednesday so that was good enough for me.

Several stops later to release trapped midges from my helmet it started raining for the first time since Luxembourg. So far the weather has been on my side so long may it continue. I stopped at a service station to put the waterproof cover on the tankbag and after procurring a few beers for the evening I managed to loose my ignition key. I have the spare key in my wallet so it wasn't a huge panic but as I retraced my steps to think where it could be I used the spare to open the topbox. I quickly realised I'd never tested it on the luggage and since all my docs are in the topbox it was a nervous turn of the key. It of course unlocked without any problem. After much searching I eventually located it atop a block of cheese in the fridge of the service station where I'd grabbed the beer.

With just under an hour to go according to the SatNav I realised I'd overstepped the mark on time and distance having done both the Grimsel and Furka. I was getting tired and therefore wasn't enjoying the scenery as much as I otherwise should have had I been a little fresher. Anyway, we live and learn and so far I'm pleased with the results my impromtu planning has produced.

As I headed down into the City of Chur it was clear they'd had some pretty heavy rain and there was a rainbow hanging in the valley. I was desparate to stop and capture a photo but there just wasn't anywhere safe much less practical. Upon hitting the valley floor it became clear there must be a skittles factory nearby because even the spray from the cars was creating rainbows.

During the last hour I'd twice found myself going off road as the relentless Swiss roadworks continued unabated. On many occasions the road gang would simply occupy one lane as they worked leaving the traffic to figure out the use of the single lane for themselves. Amazingly it all worked just fine, no contraflows, traffic lights with useless timing or workers spinning red/green signs for minimum wage.

Checked into my lovely twin room (I'd only booked a single).



I had the Swiss chicken in the hotel restaurant which was expensive but nice, although I'm not convinced on the need for the cauliflower. I know I took a photo but I'll be damned where it's gone!

The view from my room. Thunder loomed and there was a storm on the way



From the front of the hotel. Where the hell do they ski down. Oh, turns out the other side. :rolleyes:



I'm sure just a disc lock will be fine.



I retired to my room exhausted but still contemplating my route for tomorrow.
 
For me the Furka Pass would have been a highlight ! In case you didn't know it was used in Goldfinger
 
Day 6 - Churwalden to Cortina d'Ampezzo

I'd realised over dinner last night that my impromptu planning had left me in a bit of a SatNav black hole with regards to reaching my destination for today of Cortina D'Ampezzo. Both Google Maps and the SatNav were providing routes taking me through Lichtenstein and Austria, which whilst I'm sure this would have been a nice ride I just didn't fancy. I wanted to cross into Italy from Switzerland and therefore having looked at the possible routes on Google Maps asked the SatNav to take me to Davos. From here I would head over the Fluelapass and OfenPass before heading north and crossing into Italy. I was aware that the Stelvio was a possibility for heading into Italy but didn't plan on taking that route.

I left Hotel Hemmi in Churwalden at nine after asking the owner if she had any photos of the area in winter. She proceeded to pull out an A1 size ski slopes wall poster. Not quite what I had in mind but I got the idea. Turns out the slopes were on the other side of the valley so my trying to figure out where the hell they'd ski down was somewhat fruitless.

Off we go and once again the weather is on my side.



This hotel provided some quite contrasting architecture.



Initial start to Fluelapass.



But things quickly improved.



Over Fluelapass everyone was being stopped. She looked at the rear of the bike and waved me on with a smile. No idea if she was checking nationality from the plate or the state of the rear tyre. :nenau



The OfenPass was for me quite simply one of the most wonderful pieces of road ever created. Stunning scenery, smooth tarmac and a nice mix of sweeping undulating corners.



I reached the town of Santa Maria Val Müstair and saw this sign.



I decided it would be rude not to having come all this way and duly ignored the SatNav.



I am enjoying myself honest.:rolleyes:



The view down from the Stelvio.



Interesting roadside artwork at the bottom of the Stelvio.



...and I'm in Italy.



Temperature is climbing.



Time for a late lunch.





Merano Meran and Bolzano Bozen are dispensed with and I discover the SatNav has kindly decided that I should turn right at Barbiano.

I find that browsing the map on the Nav 4 is just an exercise in frustration so I use google maps to get a general feel for the route. However, in this instance GM was routing me over the top via Brunico whereas the SatNav I was now slavishly following had kindly decided that I should turn right at Barbiano. I appreciate the irony in this being a google maps image.



And so we enter the utterly stunning Dolomites.



A long day but nearly there.



The view from my balcony in the Da Beppe Sello Hotel.



I take a quick walk down into town and basque in the absolute beauty of the place. It's like someone has turned on the high definition switch in my head.



Dinner in the restaurant below the hotel.



I have two nights here so tomorrow is all about ditching the luggage and having some more fun.
 
Great stuff !!! I'll be in the Dolomites myself in 2 weeks.


Sent from my iPad using Twattybollox
 
Great stuff. Ride safe. Looking forward to Day 7 onwards :D

Should be there very soon myself. Like the part where there is no set plan. Gives you so much freedom!
 
Day 7 - The Luggage Free Loop

Once again the weather gods were looking down on me and I awoke to this view from my room.



I'm booked into the hotel for another night so today was about ditching the luggage and enjoying a loop. After breakfast and without any real plan I headed east on the SS51 but started realising it wasn't really working out. The view to my left and right was spectacular but the road pretty mundane as I bounced from town to town.

The route I ended up taking.


9:15am and the temperature is already on the up.



This statue caught my eye in a small town.



Although the town notice board next to it had me wondering if Torakiki has yet to be found. That ironing won't do itself.



I couldn't resist googling his name. This is his namesake.



Onward after about 10 miles I pulled over into what I assume to be some kind of drop off point for the loggers and took a look at google maps and decided to head for Auronzo di Cadore.





However, the SS51 hadn't finished with me yet and no sooner had I started on my adjusted course than the road improved somewhat and provided a sign for the SS52 and Passo Mauria, that'll do.



This Pizzeria decided not to go for the usual open sign.



Lots of small buildings usually log cabins as I head up the pass in what really do feel like the middle of nowhere.



Water bottle top up point.



I hit the top of Mauria where the cafe was unfortunately closed



Back to Google Maps I decided on Tramonti Di Sopra as a new waypoint. This town is located on the SR552 which consumed most of the rest of the day.

The first of several dams I'd come across throughout the rest of the day.



The impressive Fiume Tagliamento serving the dam in the pic above. You can see it off in the distance. I'd really like to be back here earlier in the year when I assume these rivers would be in full flow after the melt.



Onward to Pass #2



The SatNav decided to give up on this one declaring it merely a lump of pink bubblegum.




A quick stop on the narrow and tight climb through the forest. Anyone know who the residents of these might be?



The bike is keen to keep moving in the midday heat!



I wasn't expecting the diversity of landscapes that you get in the Dolomites, fantastic.



I stopped mid afternoon towards the end of the SR552 and punched the hotel address into the SatNav to start the ride back. After initially insisting I take the same route back which I had no intention of doing it started playing ball and plotted me a three hour route. A little longer than I would have liked but I could think of worse places to have to partake an extended journey.

A tight left turn had me on the brakes fairly sharpish for this little fella enjoying some afternoon sun.



Regardless of their size the lakes in this area are all stunning.



And a little more civil engineering helping to create them.



As if the natural surroundings weren't enough even the gardens are quite a sight.



Just off to the left were a large scout group about to head out onto the lake. Beats the shit infested "puddle" they called a lake near us that I spent a fair amount of time in as a kid.






Back at the hotel and after a few beers I notice the GS has got some company.



This hotel is a real gem with lots of fantastic old furniture and antiques.



Any guesses on this? Looks like something from Rapture (excuse the video game reference).





Cloud rolling in. Wonder if my luck with the weather is running out?



Total number of UK bikes seen since Belgium...zero. It's now become an obsession, looking back as bikes pass in the opposite direction to check the plate colour. Always white.

Tomorrow I leave the Dolomites behind and head to Lake Garda.
 


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