clutch bleed nipple disaster? Tech problem

[emort]

I've got myself in a bit of a situation here.

R1150GS 2003 model. Clutch bleed nipple grub screw was stripped in the end of the bleed unit.

So... I drilled out the grub screw with the intention of using an easy out/Screw puller and now I have clutch fluid seeping from the end.

2 questions.

Should I not be able to close the bleed valve itself and stop the flow?

Is there an easy fix that doesn't involve replacing the bleed valve and line from the clutch ?

 

[Les Wassall]

Had a similar problem, did a fluid change and put the grub screw in to tight, tried to remove and stripped the head, will leave it for now, and on the next change will remove the whole of the black end, which the grub screw sits in, I belive its only for the bm tec's to use there pressure equipment for a fluid change.
When it's off will replace it with a Speedbleeder nipple, does the same thing as the black thingy, only you can do it yourself.

 

[Fanum]

Beneath the grub screw is a likkle ball bearing that's supposed to seal againt the flange inside the housing...it sounds like you've damaged the flange maybe and it's seeping past. (I became a fekkin guru at Adv clutch bleeding at Llangollen this year with the aid of a call to Steptoe after some deep water crossings )

Is the female thread of the grub screw fekked???

If it's not, you can screw in a standard bleed nipple and rely on that to do the non-return thang for you......if it is fekked though, I suspect you may need to either crimp off the flexy tube by bending it in two and cable tying it (assuming the walls of the tube will kink without cracking) as a temporary measure or replace the end assembly.

You may be lucky though and find a bit of swarf from your cack-handed drilling ( )has pushed the ikkle ball bearing in so that fluid can pass- a bit of probing with a thick needle type thingy may let it seat properly and then you can just plug the hole after tapping it out or just stick a rubber bung in it

 

[emort]

Ok, thanks for the info.

I've located the ball bearing, which seems ok and the flow of fluid has stopped ( luckily still above minimum level in clutch lever cylinder). Still seeps if I put any pressure on the lever though. I'm going to continue drilling out the grub screw, see if I can still pull it. Failing that I'll try to tap it out and seal it with an 8mm bolt - at least then I'll be able to put pressure on the lever.

 

[Steptoe]

The bleed unit unscrews from the clutch line -

The end of the clutch line has a hex fitting, and the clutch bleed unit has two flats on -

it's cheaper and quicker to just replace the bleed unit, rather than drill and tap it -

Get a second hand unit - they were also used on the front brake calipers of late K series and the 1100/1150 GS -

 

[emort]

Yup. That's done it.

After aquiring some clutch fluid and topping up the reservoir...

I located the ball bearing and made sure that was clear, still passing fluid. I continued to try and drill/tap the end to fit a bolt or something and then, easy solution. Take off the Clutch vent screw itself from the end and replace with a standard grease nipple. This has sealed up the unit, I can pressurise the clutch again and i've bled off the air that got in.

The bike is now rideable and I can get home.