Clutch change on 1100GS

[dancata]

Hi all,

I am going to change the slipping clutch on my '95 1100gs, 104k km; I have read all the clutch related topics here and on advrider, i know what i have to do but some things are still not clear...

• the guiding pins, what is the correct mounting position, 11 and 5 or 2 and 8 o clock?
• besides the friction plates, guiding pins, graphite vaseline what else do i need to buy in order to be completly prepared?
• can the M8 guiding pins have thread on theire whole length, or do they need to be half threaded, half smooth?
• after the gearbox is removed, does the clutch housing come off by itself? any screws need to be unscrewd?
• besides spline lubrication, what else do i need to grese?

The whole process is going to be performed in a local moto service, but the mechanic there is mostly familiar with wet clutches, nut dry ones like ours.


Thanks,
Dan .

 

[dancata]

anyone?

 

[bowser]

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153714&highlight=clutch

Have a look at this thread.

I did it quite easily with aid of a haynes manual and various threads off the site, its time consuming not difficult.

Make sure you have an alignment tool, If you are lucky you can find a socket that will fit, i used an old plastic clutch tool I had for doing the clutch on a VW beetle, but to be honest, I would go and buy one you can get one for under a tenner, and it just makes the whole job a lot easier.

 

[Steptoe]

Guiding pins at 9 and 3 clock -if there's two people doing the job you don't the guiding pins.

Threaded or not doesn't make any difference.

Clutch unit is held in place with 6 bolts.

Anything else (i.e. copaslip threads) is the same as any other nuts and bolts job.

 

[dancata]

Guiding pins at 9 and 3 clock -if there's two people doing the job you don't the guiding pins.

Threaded or not doesn't make any difference.

Clutch unit is held in place with 6 bolts.

Anything else (i.e. copaslip threads) is the same as any other nuts and bolts job.

the 6 bolts - the ones grouped 2 by 2 - can i reuse them?
i don't intend to get the flywheel down, only change the friction plates.

 

[Superhypo]

the 6 bolts - the ones grouped 2 by 2 - can i reuse them?
i don't intend to get the flywheel down, only change the friction plates.

You're only cheap or you are selling the bike and you don't care anymore?, because it's not a good idea to change only the friction disk and not the whole kit. And hmm...don't re-use the bolts

 

[Pekkavee]

You're only cheap or you are selling the bike and you don't care anymore?, because it's not a good idea to change only the friction disk and not the whole kit. And hmm...don't re-use the bolts

Why it's not a good idea?
I did so and working well. I am not selling my bike.
Buy the new bolts however. I changed them as well.

Pekka

 

[Superhypo]

Why it's not a good idea?
I did so and working well. I am not selling my bike.
Buy the new bolts however. I changed them as well.

Pekka

I think the clutch/pressure plate were changed in 1997 and I doubt you can still find the friction plate for use with old style pressure plate. I still think mixing old style with new style clutch parts is not a good thing.

 

[dancata]

ok, so i am going to get the bike in half, see what is there to change, but if pressure plate is looking good, why change it?

about the 6 bolts (the ones in the clutch housing) - i would buy them from local bmw dealer, but they only get here in 8 days - can i use some new bolts from local hardware store? are the bmw's screws more special?

 

[dancata]

also, do i need to adjust the screws where the clutch cable meets the transmition? after putting in the new clutch?

 

[MattW]

ok, so i am going to get the bike in half, see what is there to change, but if pressure plate is looking good, why change it?

about the 6 bolts (the ones in the clutch housing) - i would buy them from local bmw dealer, but they only get here in 8 days - can i use some new bolts from local hardware store? are the bmw's screws more special?

It's always been my experience that not changing a complete clutch (including the pressure plate) is a false economy. Steptoe has posted several times on here to that effect - something along the lines of "you'll be changing the clutch again in 5k if you don't change the pressure plate" (I might have the mileage wrong, but you get the general idea). If it were me, I'd definitely change the complete clutch (including the pressure plate) - however, your call.

Absolutely, definitely do not use 'any old bolt from a hardware store' instead of the correct BMW bolts. They are special 'use once' high tensile bolts and ordinary bolts will most likely shear when you torque them (or even worse, after you've reassembled everything and are riding).

Yes, you will need to adjust the clutch using the bolt / locknut arrangement on the clutch operating arm at the rear of the gearbox housing after you've refitted the gearbox.

 

[Steptoe]

also, do i need to adjust the screws where the clutch cable meets the transmition? after putting in the new clutch?

Perhaps if you'd have adjusted it before replacing the clutch you might not have needed to do the job

 

[dancata]

It's always been my experience that not changing a complete clutch (including the pressure plate) is a false economy. Steptoe has posted several times on here to that effect - something along the lines of "you'll be changing the clutch again in 5k if you don't change the pressure plate" (I might have the mileage wrong, but you get the general idea). If it were me, I'd definitely change the complete clutch (including the pressure plate) - however, your call.

Absolutely, definitely do not use 'any old bolt from a hardware store' instead of the correct BMW bolts. They are special 'use once' high tensile bolts and ordinary bolts will most likely shear when you torque them (or even worse, after you've reassembled everything and are riding).

Yes, you will need to adjust the clutch using the bolt / locknut arrangement on the clutch operating arm at the rear of the gearbox housing after you've refitted the gearbox.

I ordered new bolts, they were cheap, but now i have to wait;

 

[dancata]

I ordered new bolts, they were cheap, but now i have to wait;

also ordered new pressure plate/spring diapraghm from bmwmotorworks uk; very nice people.

 

[MattW]

also ordered new pressure plate/spring diapraghm from bmwmotorworks uk; very nice people.

Hope the fitting goes well.

 

[dancata]

So... can you help me out here? It seems like I ordered something i did not want to...

My intention was to only change the friction plate, bolts and diaphragm spring;

Should i also change the pressure plate? what is the sign for a new pressure plate?

 

[Butchersdog]

Dancata

Good question I'm going to do mine in the near future and replace the lot but can anyone describe / how pressure plate is monitored ie tell how knackered it is

 

[dancata]

Dancata

Good question I'm going to do mine in the near future and replace the lot but can anyone describe / how pressure plate is monitored ie tell how knackered it is

i'll open the bike, post pictures and measures of everything and then perhaps someone will answer.

Dan

 

[Steptoe]

Dancata

Good question I'm going to do mine in the near future and replace the lot but can anyone describe / how pressure plate is monitored ie tell how knackered it is

Lay it flat and measure the height. But they do tend to go "soft" as they do the miles even if the height is still within spec.

Just buy a clutch kit and replace the whole lot, then all the doubt and possibility of having to pull it all apart again for the sake of a few pounds will be gone . .

 

[Steptoe]

So... can you help me out here? It seems like I ordered something i did not want to...

My intention was to only change the friction plate, bolts and diaphragm spring;

Should i also change the pressure plate? what is the sign for a new pressure plate?

You don't get it do you .................... If the clutch has been slipping it's fecked. The cover plate and pressure plate will have been damaged by heat, although they'll look ok apart from the faces being worn shiney. Bin the lot.

Replace the whole clutch unit. Otherwise you'll be doing the job again ( and having to buy all the parts again) in maybe less than 5K miles.