Clutch change on 1100GS

[dancata]

You don't get it do you .................... If the clutch has been slipping it's fecked. The cover plate and pressure plate will have been damaged by heat, although they'll look ok apart from the faces being worn shiney. Bin the lot.

Replace the whole clutch unit. Otherwise you'll be doing the job again ( and having to buy all the parts again) in maybe less than 5K miles.

i guess you're right; i did not know about the heat thing;

but if my bike is running ok and only slipping when accelerating suddenly, and it only happend like 3 times or so, should i change the whole kit? if yos, i promise i will newer ask dumb questions about boxer clutches again

Dan

 

[Gecko]

Don't open anything up yet - if you haven't adjusted the cable look there first . There is a lot of adjustment possible at the handle bar end and the other end of the cable. My clutch was slipping at around 55,000km . I adjusted the cable and am now on 105,000 km and it still seems fine. Listen to what Steptoe said .....

 

[Bear]

Steptoe's advice is sound. Once you've gone to the trouble of removing the gearbox then replace the entire clutch, along with anything else that looks suspect. Why do the job twice to (maybe) save a few euros/pounds/groats?

 

[dancata]

Steptoe's advice is sound. Once you've gone to the trouble of removing the gearbox then replace the entire clutch, along with anything else that looks suspect. Why do the job twice to (maybe) save a few euros/pounds/groats?

i opened the bike today, and the friction plate is way smaller than the new one; didn't got to measure it, but i will;

the pressure plate and the clutch housing have some burns and micro cracks, so i am going to replace them too; i will replace the spring diaphragm also, and the bolts;

i had a real hard time getting the gearbox out of the engine, i left it together with the driveshaft and wheel, but was really hard to get them separated; after unbolting the 6 bolts and putting the guide pins in, it was like 1 hour to get it out! what's the trick? is it going in the same hard way?

what is the correct way with a new clutch installed to adjust the cable? on bot ends, handlebar and gearbox?

 

[dancata]

here are some pics of the bike and used clutch parts:

http://dancata.smugmug.com/gallery/8959545_tokAG#595273556_pPCLS

what do you think? are them burnt enough to buy new ones?

 

[Steptoe]

I'm not going to keep repeating myself .

Thats me finished with this thread.

 

[MattW]

dancata,
As Steptoe, myself and several others have said - get new parts - a complete clutch kit. End of story.

 

[dancata]

I'm not going to keep repeating myself .

Thats me finished with this thread.

sorry i doubted your knowledge, i will get new parts; am planning to keep the bike for a long time cause i really like it and i should/will buy the parts.

can you please explain me how i should adjust the cable when it's all going to be assembled?

and if no oil leak from the transmission or engine, while the bike is appart, should i change the real main seal or the trans seal?

 

[Steptoe]

can you please explain me how i should adjust the cable when it's all going to be assembled?

You must have play at the lever at the end of the gearbox.

and if no oil leak from the transmission or engine, while the bike is appart, should i change the real main seal or the trans seal?

If they're aren't leaking leave them alone.

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

clutch lever play at the g'box is to protect the clutch - 2-3mm

clutch lever play at the handlebar is for the cable play - as reqd.

g'box lever is the first point of adjustment, h'bar second

 

[dancata]

clutch lever play at the g'box is to protect the clutch - 2-3mm

clutch lever play at the handlebar is for the cable play - as reqd.

g'box lever is the first point of adjustment, h'bar second

but i was thinking, if with the used clutch i had 1,5 cm freeplay on the handlebar, prior to installing the new clutch, should i not give the gearbox lever some slack? or can i just assemble the gearbox with the engine and then adjust the gearbox lever?

thanks for the patience,
Dan.

 

[MattW]

but i was thinking, if with the used clutch i had 1,5 cm freeplay on the handlebar, prior to installing the new clutch, should i not give the gearbox lever some slack? or can i just assemble the gearbox with the engine and then adjust the gearbox lever?

thanks for the patience,
Dan.

Hi Dan,

The diagram below is taken from the factory manual - it should help explain the procedure for adjusting the clutch. As others have said, it is very important that you have freeplay at the clutch operating arm behind the gearbox. The diagram below shows a BMW special tool being used to adjust the gearbox lever - it is quite possible (although a bit tight for space) to adjust it without the special tool.

You can download the complete factory manual here:
http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

 

[motobiker]

Having some play just at the lever is only giving you free play in the cable.

If you've no free play at the arm you'll wear out your clutch superfast. It's the biggest cause of clutch slip and subsequent failure. THIS is the area you really should look at frequently.

 

[dancata]

Hi Dan,

The diagram below is taken from the factory manual - it should help explain the procedure for adjusting the clutch. As others have said, it is very important that you have freeplay at the clutch operating arm behind the gearbox. The diagram below shows a BMW special tool being used to adjust the gearbox lever - it is quite possible (although a bit tight for space) to adjust it without the special tool.

You can download the complete factory manual here:
http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

so... from what i understand, the steps are:

set distance A to 12mm
slacken screw #1
then screw or unscrew #2 until you get freeplay distance B to 7mm?

is that correct?

I think i can do this without the special tool.

Thanks,
Dan .

 

[MattW]

so... from what i understand, the steps are:

set distance A to 12mm
slacken screw #1
then screw or unscrew #2 until you get freeplay distance B to 7mm?

is that correct?

I think i can do this without the special tool.

Thanks,
Dan .

Yes - that's correct.

 

[dancata]

Yes - that's correct.

and one more thing... do I need to do any of these steps prior to attaching the gearbox to the engine? like (1)first slacking the gearbox screw and then attaching the gearbox to the engine or (2) leave it all alone, attach the gearbox and then perform the slacking and adjusting?

Thanks,
Dan .

 

[MattW]

and one more thing... do I need to do any of these steps prior to attaching the gearbox to the engine? like (1)first slacking the gearbox screw and then attaching the gearbox to the engine or (2) leave it all alone, attach the gearbox and then perform the slacking and adjusting?

Thanks,
Dan .

Others will have to advise on this - I've not removed the gearbox on my 1100.

On other bikes / cars I usually slacken off the clutch adjustment so that you aren't fighting the clutch spring when you're reinstalling the gearbox but this might be unnecessary

 

[dancata]

Others will have to advise on this - I've not removed the gearbox on my 1100.

On other bikes / cars I usually slacken off the clutch adjustment so that you aren't fighting the clutch spring when you're reinstalling the gearbox but this might be unnecessary

yes, that's why i was concerned... maybe i will be able to install the gearbox, but i don't think it's ok for the spring diaphragm to stay tensioned untill the adjustments are made.

Thanks,
Dan.

 

[dancata]

How come there is no pressure bearing like usually in a car clutch? or is there a metal ball inside the transmision spindle where the clutch acuator rests on it?

Thanks,
Dan.

 

[alexeft]

How come there is no pressure bearing like usually in a car clutch? or is there a metal ball inside the transmision spindle where the clutch acuator rests on it?

Thanks,
Dan.

There is a little on inside the piston that presses the pushrod.