clutch fluid level check??

ghost-rider

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hiya all, after reading a few posts on here about checkin the oil levels on the brake and clutch lever resevoirs, thought id check mine today, well as suspected, brake fluid level, right to the top, way too full:blast, so corrected that, but the clutch fluid level, im convinced its too full lookin at it, as when you put the lid back on, its overflows slightly, ever so slightly that is, but how do you know what the level should be??, should it be so the the rubber seal in the lid, the bulging bit in the middle just kisses the top of the fluid level etc.??? anybody know????
 
Clutch fluid level= around 10-13mm below top of reservoir. You dont want the rubber gasket dipping into the fluid and raising the level otherwise it will piss out. Mine was brimmed too. Sucked the fluid out with a syringe. My brake fluid was also brimmed and leaking from the gasket top . My engine oil was also brimmed. Drained well over a pint from engine. Must have put the apprentice on my service. Never again..... just about to check my final drive oil which i reckon hasnt been looked at.
 
Thankyou madmartin, confirmed what I already thought! Ive took out about 11mm of fluid out of both clutch and brake lever reservoirs! Got me thinking about me engine oil now as I cant see the level on that, thats way above the glass! Only just had me 600 mile service a week back.

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Mineral oil for the clutch ,,,, don't use normal or your seals will be faked .".... You may know but ...
 
i did mine last week after reading dave's (DINGDONG) post, both reservoir's full to the brim:blast removed the brake res fluid so you could just see the bubble at the top of the glass also the clutch, no glass but removed about 10mm, the gear change was better from the off, i went on a 300ml run at the weekend and it was a big improvement :D
cheers dave:aidan
 
same ere, it was ding dong that got me thinking, as don't get me wrong im chuffed to bits with me lc, but I had noticed the clutch bite/ gear change smoothness does alter depending on how far I am into a ride, first thing in the morning, the gear changes are smooth as silk, but as the engine gets hotter or should I say fully warmed up, no matter how I try I cant always achieve the same smoothness, or I had noticed the bite point seem to vary, not all the time, but enough to make you think:rolleyes:, don't get me wrong Ive had enuf beemas now to know there still two wheeled tracktaz:D but still, ill give it a run out tomorrow an see how I get on:thumby:
 
i did mine last week after reading dave's (DINGDONG) post, both reservoir's full to the brim:blast removed the brake res fluid so you could just see the bubble at the top of the glass also the clutch, no glass but removed about 10mm, the gear change was better from the off, i went on a 300ml run at the weekend and it was a big improvement :D
cheers dave:aidan


Maybe BMW should give me a job, because upto now there fecking dealers are clueless. 10mm - 13mm from the clutch pot is perfect, the rubber boot should just sit on top on the fluid and not push the fluid up, if you don't have a syringe use a bit of kitchen roll, just dip the corner it will soak it up no probs.

Don't forget to check your final drives, 180ml to refill and 2 washers, because it seems not all dealers are changing the oil even tho 600 mile service should have the fd oil replaced as its spec'd on the BMW schedule for it to be done.
 
Ghostrider. Get that engine oil level checked. I couldnt see an oil meniscus line on my engine sight glass either. After reading numerous threads about engine oil level i decided to check. Well no kidding there was easily a pint of oil over filled. Ive now got a nice level at the sight glass just below the red circle. Of coarse you must check level when engine fully warmed and switched off for 5mins,as per riders manual. Get it checked and let us know.
 
Ghostrider. Get that engine oil level checked. I couldnt see an oil meniscus line on my engine sight glass either. After reading numerous threads about engine oil level i decided to check. Well no kidding there was easily a pint of oil over filled. Ive now got a nice level at the sight glass just below the red circle. Of coarse you must check level when engine fully warmed and switched off for 5mins,as per riders manual. Get it checked and let us know.

I got 800ml out of mine to get the level to the top of the red circle!!
 
Had to check, :rolleyes: as soon as I started loosening the screws, it started spilling fluid down the side.

Removed some fluid with a syringe down to approx 10mm from top. :thumb2 :thumb2

Will see if there is any difference on the road tomorrow, not that mine had any probs as described elsewhere in here apart from the 1st gear clunk............:nenau
 
hey lads, could somebody just confirm somat for me if you don't mind, come back from a ride yesterday to find a slight weep from me clutch fluid pot again:blast, so I opens it up and I obviously hadn't took enough fluid out was me thinking coz you could see where it had crept past the seal, so ive took some more out, but its a bit more than the 10-13mm from the top of the pot that's been quoted on here its probably more like 20mm, anyway, obviously the rubber seal/diaphragm in the lid if you aint careful will push the fluid up and cause it to overflow, ive adjusted the fluid now so that the bulge part in the rubber just literally kisses the fluid, is this ok??? or is this too lesser fluid??? clutch works bang on, the fookin difrence is unreal compared to before, really light now and smooth, last week it felt like hard work after a while:blast

got somat else to tell you all aswell but ill sort this first:thumby:
 
10-13mm was a guestimate from memory . The rubber membrane/gasket kissing the clutch fluid will be right. Its not absolutely critical level. Will be right as you have it. Make sure the gasket and reservoir top are bone dry before re assembly and dont overtighten the machine screws for the top. On a side note. .... i dropped the oil from my final drive and its nice and black. Bike has 3k on it. Dont look like it was changed at 600miles service. But not overfilled. Wow.
 
10-13mm was a guestimate from memory . The rubber membrane/gasket kissing the clutch fluid will be right. Its not absolutely critical level. Will be right as you have it. Make sure the gasket and reservoir top are bone dry before re assembly and dont overtighten the machine screws for the top. On a side note. .... i dropped the oil from my final drive and its nice and black. Bike has 3k on it. Dont look like it was changed at 600miles service. But not overfilled. Wow.


Sorry to sound like a dumbass mate, when you say rubber membrane/gasket kissing the fluid, you mean the pronounced bulge in the rubber gasket or do you mean the bit above it which is like more of a platform which would basically be near enuf the under neath of the lid?? like I say dont wanna sound like a twat, but just want it right! Like I said the clutch lever & bite now is perfect a total transformation from last week!

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Ghostrider. Yes mate you got it. When lowering the rubber diaphragm/membrane/black gaskety thing into the reservoir ya dont really want it dipping into the clutch fluid and raising the fluid level. Av ya checked your engine oil level yet?
 
Clutch fluid level= around 10-13mm below top of reservoir. You dont want the rubber gasket dipping into the fluid and raising the level otherwise it will piss out. Mine was brimmed too. Sucked the fluid out with a syringe. My brake fluid was also brimmed and leaking from the gasket top . My engine oil was also brimmed. Drained well over a pint from engine. Must have put the apprentice on my service. Never again..... just about to check my final drive oil which i reckon hasnt been looked at.

Mine going in for 600 mile service on Friday, any way I can check before/after that the FD oil has been done during the service?
 
Mine going in for 600 mile service on Friday, any way I can check before/after that the FD oil has been done during the service?

Mark the bolts or fd filling plug and sump plug with a fine marker/touch up pen at a certain position sat 12 o'clock than you'll no if they been removed because the markings never realign, i do this as normal at work and use this method on service items on my bike.
 
Mark the bolts or fd filling plug and sump plug with a fine marker/touch up pen at a certain position sat 12 o'clock than you'll no if they been removed because the markings never realign, i do this as normal at work and use this method on service items on my bike.

Sneaky, I like it!
Really shouldn't have to at a main dealers, what are things coming to? When I were a lad............:rob
 
Sneaky, I like it!
Really shouldn't have to at a main dealers, what are things coming to? When I were a lad............:rob

Yeah but the dealers are sneaky fookers, how many times you paid to have your breaks stripped and cleaned, when all they probably done is blew an airline tho em ! I don't trust any of them tbh, i no the tricks they get up to. So don't think for once there your mate, were just coin to em all.
 
Ghostrider. Yes mate you got it. When lowering the rubber diaphragm/membrane/black gaskety thing into the reservoir ya dont really want it dipping into the clutch fluid and raising the fluid level. Av ya checked your engine oil level yet?


thanks mate, ive sorted it now:thumby:, right, engine oil as suspected, yep its over filled:blast, this is the best bit, every time I took me gsa to the dealer(same dealer I mite add), id notice when it came back the sight glass was full to the brim, but to be honest I never used to worry bout it, it seemed to just burn off and level itself out no problem, and to be honest that was me first thought with me lc, but you know how things niggle ya:rolleyes:, anyway out of curiosity I rings sed dealer today to see what there take on the subject was, firstly I was asked how I checked the level, to which I replied, ride into me garage after doing 25 mile home from work, engine off onto the centre stand and leave it for five and come back an see etc.:blagblah, too which the reply was, "your doing it wrong, you need to get the engine warmed up properly as you are and then put it on the centre stand with the(wait for it:pullface) engine running, that's the only sure fire way to get a true level, as when the engines off, that's not the correct level, when the engines running the oil will be at the top of the red circle:eek:, well, I said are you sure, that's not what the book says, well I havnt read the book, so I wouldn't know, im an ex technician(now service advisor), I just couldn't get me breath, they expect the customer to actually buy this bullshit!, then he went onto tell me how they wouldn't overfill it, they couldn't do that its all done from an electronic pump:blagblah, right, so out of curiosity I rang three other dealers and near enough word for word they quoted what it says in our handbooks, so I rings sed twat back and ask why other dealers say this and could he please check that this is correct etc., anyway rings me back and basically says yes you are right they've changed the way in which you now check the oil, and this is the new way as per our handbook:blagblah, what a twat, this boils my piss really, to think ive or should I say weve all payed for this shite!, so I either take it back and let them sort it, which they have offered to do I will say, or basically ill do it meself:thumby:
 


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