Clutch Hose fitting advice please 1150gs

[fatnfast]

I have finally got time to replace the original clutch master to slave cylinder hose with a shiney new one. For those who have done this, is it possible to fit the new hose without removing the slave cylinder? Also I assume its best to tie the old and new lines together to pull the new one into place. Any other tips?
thanks in advance .

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

When I had to change my slave cylinder I fitted it to the bike and then reconnected the hoses.

I'm not sure pulling the hose will help much. IIRC it's quite a convoluted route.

 

[Steptoe]

Much easier to remove the slave cylinder and attach the hoses then put the slave back in place.

And if you look closely there is no need to pull the hose through.

 

[B4ndit]

I have finally got time to replace the original clutch master to slave cylinder hose with a shiney new one. For those who have done this, is it possible to fit the new hose without removing the slave cylinder? Also I assume its best to tie the old and new lines together to pull the new one into place. Any other tips?
thanks in advance .

Are you doing this with the rear wheel, exhaust, et all still in place. Or is the bike in bits? FMOI.

 

[fatnfast]

Thanks for the replies and advice .
To improve access I have just removed the tank, rear shock, end can, and the airbox snorkel.
I also removed the starter cover, and as steptoe says, you can clearly see the hose route and the fact that there is no need to attach the new to old and pull it through. Took a pici just to back up my failing memory as its now to cold to continue in the garage!
I have a long 4mm allen to crack the banjo bolt off the slave cylinder, and access looks ok, but any hassles and the slave will come off as suggested.
As a bonus? its a good chance to give it a real good clean in that area.

 

[fatnfast]

New hose now fitted .
Not a bad job as long as you dont have huge fingers. In the end I also took the starter motor off as its only a couple of bolts and makes life easier.
After disconnecting the old hose, I just copied its route feeding the smaller banjo end in through the loom and nooks and crannies first, starting near the headstock and finishing at the slave cylinder. I also wrapped a bit of tape around the end to stop it getting covered in crap. The easiest way is as steptoe says to remove the slave cylinder and fit the hose this way. I went for the hard way and fitted it with the slave still attached. Very fiddly but do-able. I marked the banjo bolt prior to removal which enabled me to tighten it back up to the position it was in before, so it should be torqued correctly.
Motorworks say to use a chrome banjo bolt at the master cylinder end, which I had ordered. Couldnt see any difference between that and the one I took off though
Also I cut down my long 4mm allen key as otherwise the space was to tight for it.
The old one was pretty rusty, despite having cut the rubber back and use rust killer on it a few years back. Just got to bleed and refit everthing and its done.

 

[B4ndit]

Well done mate. Some good info for when the summer comes and I can get the 1150 in bits during her layup.

 

[fatnfast]

Thanks Bandit, but unfortunately a bit premature. I had obviously not tightned the banjo bolt enough as a few drips of brake fluid appeared. I decided to take the slave cylinder of after all as it was just to fiddly. Pretty easy to do and a lot easier to tighten the banjos

However, when I took the slave of, behind it was a few drops of gearbox oil, so new thread for help on this one about to be opened!