Clutch removal?

VAL. H.

Thrower of cats at pigeons
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Having now removed the gearbox and swingarm, I now need to remove the clutch from my 1989 R80 Mono. I've seen bits of metal fabricated to bolt to the clutch and the engine casing to lock up the flywheel, but on mine I don't see where I would attach one and be able to undo all the bolts. What am I missing please?


Val.
 
You are not missing anything. Just undo the bolts/screws a turn at a time in a diagonal sequence to ease the spring pressure. They should have been done up to about 20-22Nm so you should be able to do it without any other tool. I think I've gone quickly to 'crack' the thread. Make sure you find the balancing marks before disassembly so you know where to line it all up again on reassembly. If you can't find them, put some paint/tippex on yourself.

The flywheel holder tool is for taking off the flywheel.
 
You are not missing anything. Just undo the bolts/screws a turn at a time in a diagonal sequence to ease the spring pressure. They should have been done up to about 20-22Nm so you should be able to do it without any other tool. I think I've gone quickly to 'crack' the thread. Make sure you find the balancing marks before disassembly so you know where to line it all up again on reassembly. If you can't find them, put some paint/tippex on yourself.

The flywheel holder tool is for taking off the flywheel.
Thanks, pretty much what it says in the book. But How do I stop the clutch/engine from rotating while I undo the bolts? Is there some method for this or do I just ram a big screwdriver in to give me something to pull against?

Val.
 
I think it is possible to loosen the screws by cracking them quickly, with an impulse movement. I minimise the torque to the crank rotation by not increasing the lever arm (this is difficult to explain without a diagram) with your wrench. For example, if you are on the left of the engine, you attempt the furthest away screw (on the right of the engine) and have your wrench pointing towards you. If this isn’t clear enough I’ll draw a picture! If you still have the spark plugs in then compression can help too.
 
Stand to the left side of the bike

Rest your left hand on the assembly and Operate ratchet and short 6mm allen socket with the other
You can quite easily withstand the torque

I like to get a tippex mark on the main bits of the assembly to keep them in that orientation
 
Last edited:
Stand to the left side of the bike

Rest your left hand on the assembly and Operate ratchet and short 6mm allen socket with the other
You can quite easily withstand the torque

I like to get a tippex mark on the main bits of the assembly to keep them in that orientation
I think it is possible to loosen the screws by cracking them quickly, with an impulse movement. I minimise the torque to the crank rotation by not increasing the lever arm (this is difficult to explain without a diagram) with your wrench. For example, if you are on the left of the engine, you attempt the furthest away screw (on the right of the engine) and have your wrench pointing towards you. If this isn’t clear enough I’ll draw a picture! If you still have the spark plugs in then compression can help too.

Thank you guys. I'll give that a go.


Val.
 
Thanks, pretty much what it says in the book. But How do I stop the clutch/engine from rotating while I undo the bolts? Is there some method for this or do I just ram a big screwdriver in to give me something to pull against?

Val.
Just place your ratchet at the angle which is neutral to any flywheel movement as the bolt is undone… Get a grown up to show you 😄. i.e. on the bolt that’s positioned at 12 o clock undo it with the arm of the ratchet at approx 5 o clock
 


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