Clutch replacement parts

[dbambi]

1200GS 2005, 25k mls

Preparing to jump into a clutch replacement operation (usual story - oil leak somewhere inside, most likely one or both of the seals are gone) and need to order the parts needed at some point.

My question is - apart from the oil contaminated clutch plate and leaky seal(s) how would I know if pressure plate and assembly plate also need to be replaced? Are there any specific signs to look for?

If those parts do not need replacing how they should be cleaned from oil residue? Would WD40 do the trick?

Tnx for any help...

 

[Spike]

me personally if I was stripping the bike that far down like I did when I did mine I would replace the whole lot for peice of mind.
I got mine from James sherlock that advertises at the top of this page, same make as BMW origional and it does the job nicely.

I have a how to in the info section that is a sticky on how to do it basically.
Get yourself a copy of the BMW REPROM disc off ebay for a few quid, really useful and better than the haynes manual.

Make sure you have plenty of room to workin as the bike needs to be strapped down and when split the rear section needs to be stored somewhere.

spike

 

[autogs]

do not clean the friction plate with wd 40,anyway as spike says if your striping it down that far its false economy not to renew everything isnt it.

 

[skywalker]

WD40 ??? and your wanting to fit a clutch ??

 

[ihandyman247]

25k and you need a new clutch , sounds like very early days ?!
Are you sure about that ?!
Some bikes they go forever with the original clutch

 

[Sgt Bilco]

25k and you need a new clutch , sounds like very early days ?!
Are you sure about that ?!
Some bikes they go forever with the original clutch

If you get oil on the clutch plate due to the gearbox seal leaking, you have to have a new clutch plate.

I had the same issue and just did my clutch at 70k and although the plate was pretty good we put a new one in. Jonno at Adventure Bike Warehouse suggested I replace everything else whilst the bike was in half because of general wear and tear. Worth the cost while you are there and my clutch is as light as a feather now

 

[dbambi]

WD40 ??? and your wanting to fit a clutch ??

Apologies if that sounded stupid (it probably was) - did not use WD40 in a long time, and kind of remember it was useful for cleaning things especially when sticky and oily.

 

[dbambi]

25k and you need a new clutch , sounds like very early days ?!
Are you sure about that ?!
Some bikes they go forever with the original clutch

It's just slipping, not too badly just yet, but slipping anyway. All the usual signs such as oil residue on the right hand side near the gearbox are there. So no question, it is a slipy clutch, the only issue whether to replace it now or wait to become worse.

 

[skywalker]

Its a safe bet that your gearbox shaft oil seals will be the root cause. The latest type are a brown colour and are pretty good as in not getting repeat issues.
Replace the input shaft seals front and rear as well as the output shaft. It will be worth a visit to your local dealer with your gearbox to get the seals fitted as the correct tools for the job will install them to the correct depth etc in the casings.
At low mileages you will get away with replacing the friction plate assuming the corresponding surfaces of the other components are undamaged either from heat or ressembling something thats been beaten savagely with a ball peen hammer.

Clean everthing with "BRAKE CLEANER" and that includes inside the engine housing where the clutch lives. And finally buy a tube( off your dealer) of the appropriate grease for the clutch and driveshaft splines - not "coppaslip"