Clutch

[juan74]

Hi there,
I am about to replace the clutch on my 1150gs. Last one didn't last very long. I haven't opened, but either by not replacing the cover plate last time, or maybe oil contamination. There is no visible leak, at least that i would consider big enough to cause the clutch to start slipping after one year and 10000 miles only. I don't ride off road, or slipping the clutch.
Anyway, long story short, i want to replace with the ceramic clutch and was looking at the touratech, until i came accross this:
www.rbracing-rsr.com
Has anyone used them? Comments?
Thank you.

Juan

 

[Deleted account 220427002]

do a search for ceramic clutch

and listen to whatever Steptoe says

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=171291

 

[Deleted account 220427002]

and

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115293

 

[brassmonkey001]

Hola, Juan.
I know very little about the 1150 but I am awake at this hour unlike most.
You have replaced the clutch already? How many miles (KM) has your bike done?

edit: Just re-read your post. You have a 10,000 mile bike and you are looking at putting a third clutch in? That doesn't sound at all right to me.
Are you using the correct oil? (I don't know if the 1150 runs a wet or dry clutch ) Have you made sure the clutch cable (or hydraulic) adjustment is OK?

I find it hard to believe that any bike, let alone a BMW GS should eat clutches so quickly.

I hope you get the answer you require soon.

 

[juan74]

I have almost 55.000 miles. Replaced the clutch last year at about 42.000 miles. Did not replace the cover plate. I figured either that, or contamination (although i do not see any leaks) is causing the clutch to slip again. It is only happening on the higher gears giving full throttle from about 3.000 rpms. On "normal" riding, it is not slipping yet.
So i will replace the clutch, rear crankshaft seal, transmission shaft seal, clutch slave cylinder (just to make sure that there are no leaks, or won't be any leaks any time soon, to contaminate the new clutch). I am wondering if anyone has any experience with the ceramic clutches, in particular the ones from RB Racing?
I figure in a couple of weeks, i'll have it in. After that, i'll bring an update.
Thank you guys.

Juan

 

[Steptoe]

I have almost 55.000 miles. Replaced the clutch last year at about 42.000 miles. Did not replace the cover plate.

You must replace the complete clutch unit= cover plate, pressure plate and friction plate.

If you only replace the friction plate or keep any of the other plates you will ( as you've now found out) get clutch slip again usually within 5K miles, so you've done a bit better than normal by getting 7K miles.

In my experience the most common seal to leak is the gearbox input shaft/output end = the small seal in the back of the gearbox where the slave cylinder mounts. Diagnosed by gear oil in the pushrod tunnel.

People do mis-diagnose it for slave cylinder or the gearbox input shaft leaking.

Don't replace the seals if they aren't leaking.

 

[juan74]

Thanks for all the info guys.

 

[JoeC]

Was speaking to a BMW mechanic today about clutches and he always advises to replace ALL clutch parts,as per Steptoe's advice, as well as the slave cylinder. In his experience the old slave cylinder can leak at the same type of mileage of the old clutch need replacing and contaminate the new clutch. Said that cost wise it does not add much more to the overall cost of about £550.

 

[Richard P]

I replaced the clutch on my 13,000 mile 2003 GS - nothing wrong with the clutch, it was the drive shaft.

Might be worth checking the inside of the swinging arm - if there are crumbs of rubber inside, it may be worth replacing the shaft.

I put a s/h one on mine and have just completed 3000 miles arouind the Baltic without another problem ( apart from a low speed spill which is another story)

 

[JKU]

Hi - I'm new to the forum and am fixing my clutch again after putting less than 1000 miles on it (originally replaced at 28,500 miles). Long story short - BMW replaced the clutch, shortly thereafter I deployed to Iraq (bike was stored under a cover in Korea - lots of snow, ice, heat, humidity, you name it), I came back and now have to replace the clutch plate again because of a defective slave cylinder (incidentally, I think BMW screwed me by not replacing the slave cylinder when they originally fixed it). Anyway, I shipped the bike back to the States and am fixing it myself this time to save some $.

The clutch plate is well withing tolerance (6.48mm), and cleaned up nicely; splines are in good shape. Pressure plate and housing cover look a bit discolored (heat?). I have not idea what to look for in the spring, but it doesn't show any wear.

I am trying to decide whether I need to replace all aforementioned parts, or if I should try to save a few bucks by getting a new slave cylinder and just cleaning the clutch pieces and reassembling it. Any informed opinions out there? I don't ride offroad or two-up, so the bike isn't subject to too much torture - just hard acceleration in the twisties.

 

[Colban]

Hi - I'm new to the forum and am fixing my clutch again after putting less than 1000 miles on it (originally replaced at 28,500 miles). Long story short - BMW replaced the clutch, shortly thereafter I deployed to Iraq (bike was stored under a cover in Korea - lots of snow, ice, heat, humidity, you name it), I came back and now have to replace the clutch plate again because of a defective slave cylinder (incidentally, I think BMW screwed me by not replacing the slave cylinder when they originally fixed it). Anyway, I shipped the bike back to the States and am fixing it myself this time to save some $.

The clutch plate is well withing tolerance (6.48mm), and cleaned up nicely; splines are in good shape. Pressure plate and housing cover look a bit discolored (heat?). I have not idea what to look for in the spring, but it doesn't show any wear.

I am trying to decide whether I need to replace all aforementioned parts, or if I should try to save a few bucks by getting a new slave cylinder and just cleaning the clutch pieces and reassembling it. Any informed opinions out there? I don't ride offroad or two-up, so the bike isn't subject to too much torture - just hard acceleration in the twisties.

Hi there JKU,welcome to the forum.
I take it there's no chance of BWM picking up the tab for the repair?.
Clutch slave cylinders do tend to go pop and as far as i'm aware,cannot be rebuilt.
If the clutch has been contaminated with either engine or transmission oil,the recommendation is usually to replace the whole assembly.
In view of the fact it is clutch fluid and not oil that has got onto it,plus the cost of the parts,i would be tempted to simply reassemble after cleaning/spline lubing with a new slave cylinder and hope for the best.
Good luck.

 

[JKU]

Colban - thanks for the note. I think that is the route I'll take. Worst that can happen is that I'll have to disassemble it and replace with a new plate, right?

Some buddies of mine mentioned that old Harley clutches that got oil splashed on them due to an overfilled cranckcase could be salvaged by an overnight soaking in gasoline to pull out the oil. Anyone try that with a BMW clutch plate? -- Juan

 

[bowser]

Colban - thanks for the note. I think that is the route I'll take. Worst that can happen is that I'll have to disassemble it and replace with a new plate, right?

Some buddies of mine mentioned that old Harley clutches that got oil splashed on them due to an overfilled cranckcase could be salvaged by an overnight soaking in gasoline to pull out the oil. Anyone try that with a BMW clutch plate? -- Juan

I would have thought the best way of cleaning would be with "trike" or similar if you can still get hold of it.

 

[Stewart H]

I would have thought the best way of cleaning would be with "trike" or similar if you can still get hold of it.

I have successfully cleaned automotive clutches in situ by washing them off with aerosol brake cleaner, on a GS this might be accomplished by removing the starter and spraying the stuff between the plates with the clutch lever pulled, rotate the motor to different positions and repeat, in the bad old days contaminated brake linings could be cleaned of axle oil by boiling them up with biological washing powder, or in the case of the old riveted ones by burning, we were poor but honest

 

[bowser]

I have successfully cleaned automotive clutches in situ by washing them off with aerosol brake cleaner, on a GS this might be accomplished by removing the starter and spraying the stuff between the plates with the clutch lever pulled, rotate the motor to different positions and repeat, in the bad old days contaminated brake linings could be cleaned of axle oil by boiling them up with biological washing powder, or in the case of the old riveted ones by burning, we were poor but honest

trike or Tetrachloroethylene used to be the cleaning constituent of brake cleaner, also used in dry cleaning industry (where is a whole lot cheaper) also used to be used for cleaning of all sorts of mechanical parts, seems to have gone out of fashion (some bloody rumour that it was cancer causing or some such bollox), used to have vats of the stuff in the army, and used it like water to clean off metal before welding when I was learning to weld, but you can still get hold of it and it is by far and away the best degreaser in the world.

 

[Stewart H]

trike or Tetrachloroethylene used to be the cleaning constituent of brake cleaner, also used in dry cleaning industry (where is a whole lot cheaper) also used to be used for cleaning of all sorts of mechanical parts, seems to have gone out of fashion (some bloody rumour that it was cancer causing or some such bollox), used to have vats of the stuff in the army, and used it like water to clean off metal before welding when I was learning to weld, but you can still get hold of it and it is by far and away the best degreaser in the world.

Yup powerful stuff, used to use Perchlorethylene in the Coal Board, gallons of the stuff around, excellent degreaser, but a good whiff could make your teeth drop out ISTR it is the proper equipment cleaner for Hammerite too.

 

[bowser]

Yup powerful stuff, used to use Perchlorethylene in the Coal Board, gallons of the stuff around, excellent degreaser, but a good whiff could make your teeth drop out ISTR it is the proper equipment cleaner for Hammerite too.

scary thing is that its an organic solvent, so it was used in the food industry for amongst other things, production of De-caf coffer (although why the hell bother) and soy bean oil

 

[Hugh Jardon]

scary thing is that its an organic solvent, so it was used in the food industry for amongst other things, production of De-caf coffer (although why the hell bother) and soy bean oil

Don't know about now but used to use trico in formulation of hairsprays - your missus probably filled the bathroom with it every morning

 

[bowser]

not me, my missus never used hair spray in her life thank god !!

 

[bowser]

not me, my missus never used hair spray in her life thank god !!