Clutch

[Deak]

I've an engine parts cleaner which sits on top of a 35 litre drum. The drum used to be filled tetrachloroethylene.

When I bought my first new GS 10 years ago, as it was winter I parked it up in the garage until the weather improved.

It was standing next to the trike cleaner and within 6 weeks the vapour had melted the whole exterior sheathing of the wiring loom

BMW very kindly renewed the whole loom for me after they diagnosed it as a "manufacturing fault"

 

[Grey Beard]

trike or Tetrachloroethylene used to be the cleaning constituent of brake cleaner, also used in dry cleaning industry (where is a whole lot cheaper) also used to be used for cleaning of all sorts of mechanical parts, seems to have gone out of fashion (some bloody rumour that it was cancer causing or some such bollox), used to have vats of the stuff in the army, and used it like water to clean off metal before welding when I was learning to weld, but you can still get hold of it and it is by far and away the best degreaser in the world.

Tetrachloroethylene is an exceptionally dangerous chlorinated solvent and is now banned, as far as I am aware. It is a well established carcinogen (caner causing agent) so you really don't want to mess with that stuff.

I know I used to be able to buy it at the local chemist when I lived in Scotland - used it for cleaning model railways - but I didn't know then what I now know about that stuff.

Most chlorinated solvents are being phased out or have already been banned as they have dangerous side effects.

The safer alternative is a solvent, which smells of orange peel, but I can't remember the chemical name, though it's easily available in bike shops, etc.

Grey Beard

 

[Grey Beard]

Yup powerful stuff, used to use Perchlorethylene in the Coal Board, gallons of the stuff around, excellent degreaser, but a good whiff could make your teeth drop out ISTR it is the proper equipment cleaner for Hammerite too.

Tetrachloroethylene is classified as a 'probable carcinogen in humans' and therefore is best not used. Most large companies will have already banned the use of this chemical for safety and environmental reasons. Many clhlorinated organic solvents are now banned as they are now considered hazardous to health.

You can use a safe alternative - smells of orange peel and I have bought it for cleaning/degreasing bicycle chains, etc.

Grey Beard

 

[Sparky]

Some buddies of mine mentioned that old Harley clutches that got oil splashed on them due to an overfilled cranckcase could be salvaged by an overnight soaking in gasoline to pull out the oil. Anyone try that with a BMW clutch plate? -- Juan

If you have access try JP8 should be plenty about !

 

[ducatiparts.110mb]

The clutch on my 1150GS is just starting to slip at 43000 miles.
I understand the need to change the pressure plate, friction plate, cover plate as a set, but is there any benefit in changing the spring as well? Sherlocks do a complete set inc spring for £200, or I can save £40 by buying the parts separately and not having the spring.

Its not a bike I'm planning to keep for more than 6 months so I don't want to spend too much money if I'm not going to benefit from it.

Thanks, Mark

 

[Wrigsby1]

The clutch on my 1150GS is just starting to slip at 43000 miles.
I understand the need to change the pressure plate, friction plate, cover plate as a set, but is there any benefit in changing the spring as well? Sherlocks do a complete set inc spring for £200, or I can save £40 by buying the parts separately and not having the spring.

Its not a bike I'm planning to keep for more than 6 months so I don't want to spend too much money if I'm not going to benefit from it.

Thanks, Mark

As above, change all parts. It may even be you it stiffs when it goes early as a combination of new and old bits is often suspect to early failure. You may even want to sell it on UKGSer....

 

[JKU]

Well, I opted to "cook" the contamination out. First I stuck it in the oven at ~400 Fahrenheit for 45 minutes, but it stunk up the whole house, so I finished the job with a propane torch. Fluid bubbled out and it smoldered a bit, but in the end I think I got it all out.

In any event, I reassembled the clutch and it grips better than ever!

I may have a slight problem though, I didn't mark the alignment of the pressure and cover plates, so I followed the Clymer's manual directions - lined up two marks at 180 degrees (I could only find two white paint dabs, which line up at about 160 degrees, and a single red dot on one of the plates (the pressue plate, I think). Anyway, after assembling everything (and I mean the entire bike), I looked at the BMW service manual and it says 120 degrees; _ _ IT! Anyway, it runs okay, but the seat seams to vibrate more than it did before. Not sure if I am just paranoid or if there is something wrong. It seems to be normal at idle and up to about 2000 RPMs; after that I think the vibration it more than it probably should be, but only under throttle. When it coasts (in gear), no vibration.

So, did I completely dork this up, or am I okay? Aligning the frame bolts was butt pain I don't want to experience again anytime soon, but if I absolutely have to, I'll take it apart and fix it (assuming I know the right procedure, that is.)! Juan

 

[argos]

hello JKU,i dont think the spacing make any difference,e assembled several wth no marks to align with no problems.On the subject of the rbr clutch,this company does not have the best of reputations,if you look on the ADV US site it would appear that no one has actually managed to buy one.Lucas make a sintered one that looks promising,think Wunderlicht sell it

 

[JKU]

Thanks for the note argos. My main concern is that excessive vibration will prematurely wear out the bearing and/or seals going into the transmission and leave me stranded in the boonies. If it happens close to home - no problems, I can replace the parts myself at a moderate cost. If it happens on the road - ruined trip and / or high expense to get the bike home or to have BMW do the work.

BTW, my rear master cylinder vibrated loose yesterday. I replaced the nuts and used nylon threadlock bolts to resecure it; never happened before - maybe I didn't tighten them down enough (got them pretty tight initially, but didn't use a torque wrench).

I am no longer in the market for a clutch disk,; after cleaning it up, mine works great! If the slave fails again I think I'll buy one of these oil resistant clutches: http://www.motorcycleparts-hornig.c...html?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=organic!

I am still thinking about tearing the clutch back apart to adjust the offset on the pressure and cover plates. Any other thoughts out there?

Juan

 

[JKU]

So, I talk this all over with a buddy, and we decide that maybe the exhaust is loose. I check it out, and even though everything is bolted on snugly, the slip-on (Two Brothers) is a bit loose. No blow by, but still loose; removing the slip-on clears up the vibration! Anyway, some light sanding and a little bit of high-temp tailpipe sealer later, and everything is back to normal! Problem solved. So other than a bit of anxiety and embarrassment everything seems to have worked out okay. I'll let everyone know if the clutch continues to hold up.
Juan

 

[JKU]

Not much time to ride over the last few months, but after about 800 miles, the clutch continues to hold up well. I drilled a relief / weep hole in the bottom of slave cylinder housing wall as added insurance against future problems too.

During our many recent snow storms I sent my wheels out to Woody's Wheels to have them relaced with SS spokes, to have the rims and hubs powdercoated (satin black), and to have the ABS ring anodized (black). Looks sharp and rides well too.

Going to adjust the valves and synch the TBs this weekend using a homemade manometer. Should be fun. --Juan

 

[johnhorsley5]

Clutch Hydraulic line

I need to replace the hydraulic clutch line on my 99 1150GS.
Does anyone sell an aftermarket or braided version (in UK or Europe ideally, but I could get it posted to a US APO)
Also is there a gasket between the engine block and the clutch housing which will need replacing. I can't see one on the realoem site.
Any other gaskets or parts I need to pre-order?