Coke habit!

katanamangler

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It's not as it sounds. This post goes out to the technical gurus of the all things oilhead. Please bare with me as I tell the story.

I have been chasing a problem with my 03 1150 GSA ( 32K on the clock) since I bought it about a month ago. The symptom was that once up to working temperature it wouldn't pull around 4-5 thousand revs in 5th and sixth gear ( basically under load) MPG were also quite low.

So I changed the stick coils ( ouch) , the plugs, set the valve clearances and changed the fuel filter. I drained the tank and it was as clean as a whistle ( lining intact and no debris) checked the TPS voltage and balanced the throttle bodies.

The bike ran better but the problem was still present. Next I took the injectors off wired them up to a power source and switch and an air line and fired neat injector cleaner through them at about 30psi ( they were clean) the spray pattern was good. But still my problem persisted.

So I had eliminated the obvious Spark issues , fuel supply issues and valve clearance issues. In addition an electronic diagnostic check showed no faults ( thanks Ian)

Another anomaly was a slightly high tick over and the fact that despite no evidence of air leaks I couldn't get the tick over down and and get the a balance even when the BBS were all the way in one side and just a quarter turn out on the other. I got it as low as I could ( 1200) but it smelt like it was running a little rich.

Finally I sprayed AMSoil power foam directly into the throttle bodies while the bike was running and let it soak into the piston crowns and valves for 30 minutes. I then took the bike out for an "Italian tune up" Hallelujah! it pulled freely to the red line all the way through the gears and the stutter under load had gone. But when I returned the the tick over had risen again.

So ( hopefully someone's still listening) my conclusion is that the bike had, over time built up a significant carbon depositing around the valve seats and the piston crowns. The previous owner told me he never rode the bike above 80mph. If the bike was short shifted everywhere and it was still using oil, the lack of spirited riding may have allowed significant build up of carbon deposits on the piston crowns hence the pinking under load when warmed up. I can only surmise that the removal of some of the build up on the valve seats may have allowed the exhaust valves to re-seat slightly making the previous carbon chocked clearance too tight allowing the cylinder to draw air hence the lift in tick over. I'm going to check the valve clearances again and test my theory.

Experienced oilheeds feel free to poke holes in my theory.
 
Around 45 years ago

A friend of my mother had a Vauxhall Viva.
It was 7 years old and had 7,500 miles on it.
Going very badly, Would not go over 2,000 rpm or so and would not exceed 30 mph.
She took to the local Vauxhall dealership, who told her it needed a new engine.
She asked me for a second opinion.
I took it for a run. It was terrible. Once out of her sight, I stuck it in first gear and drove it boot to board for about a kilometre. It started to clear in first, so I grabbed second and continued.
Go to the local motorway (Belfast M1) Stuck it in Third and drove boot to board to Lisburn (10 miles). At Lisburn, I turned round and drove back home flat out in top gear.
Car was now doing it's normal top speed of circa 80 mph.
Gave it back to her. She told me it had never run so well since she bought it.
I did not tell her what I had done, and if I had done so, she would have had me in court.
Myke
 
Cheers Myke, Hope you took her purse and pension book out of the glove box before you gave the car back ;-)

My fear is that there might be a burnt exhaust valve or seat. Time will tell.

I just wondered whether if anyone had seen , heard of or experienced anything similar to my situation with a GS.
 
why didnt you check compression before spending money?
 
Often I had 2CV's in for service that just felt a little less keen to rev than normal. It's an air cooled flat twin designed for a generation of French who thought that the accelerator pedal was a switch. Once I was sure things like valve clearances and ignition timing were spot on the best thing to do was to take the car out and rev it. A quick (well all things are relative) blast along the bypass and the car was transformed.

Sometimes, if I knew the owner might not be persuaded to drive it properly, I would fit a different grade of spark plug that coped better with constant low revs. I called them my "little old lady" plugs and often just mentioning that was enough to get people to rev the engine a bit more like it was designed for.

John
 
why didnt you check compression before spending money?

That's a good question and hindsight is an exacting science. Strangely if I knew nothing about the bike and it wasn't mine I would have started with a compression check.

Instead I posted my original symptoms up here and I got a number of pointers to check the stick coils. I pulled them and sure enough one of them was shorting through the outer coating. So at least one was a duffer and at least now I have a spare.
 
For me it was Toyota Celicas back in the seventies, these then fairly novel five geared sporty cars were often bought by middle aged gents, who the proceeded to pootle about at low rpms forever, returning between services with the complaint "Its missing" a check of the essentials and an Italian tune up down the local dual carriageway used to blow the cobwebs away :D
re your bike having the same, why not, its easy to lug these motors if continually riding them at a sedate pace.
 
give your bike damn good blast

It's not as it sounds. This post goes out to the technical gurus of the all things oilhead. Please bare with me as I tell the story.

I have been chasing a problem with my 03 1150 GSA ( 32K on the clock) since I bought it about a month ago. The symptom was that once up to working temperature it wouldn't pull around 4-5 thousand revs in 5th and sixth gear ( basically under load) MPG were also quite low.

So I changed the stick coils ( ouch) , the plugs, set the valve clearances and changed the fuel filter. I drained the tank and it was as clean as a whistle ( lining intact and no debris) checked the TPS voltage and balanced the throttle bodies.

The bike ran better but the problem was still present. Next I took the injectors off wired them up to a power source and switch and an air line and fired neat injector cleaner through them at about 30psi ( they were clean) the spray pattern was good. But still my problem persisted.

So I had eliminated the obvious Spark issues , fuel supply issues and valve clearance issues. In addition an electronic diagnostic check showed no faults ( thanks Ian)

Another anomaly was a slightly high tick over and the fact that despite no evidence of air leaks I couldn't get the tick over down and and get the a balance even when the BBS were all the way in one side and just a quarter turn out on the other. I got it as low as I could ( 1200) but it smelt like it was running a little rich.

Finally I sprayed AMSoil power foam directly into the throttle bodies while the bike was running and let it soak into the piston crowns and valves for 30 minutes. I then took the bike out for an "Italian tune up" Hallelujah! it pulled freely to the red line all the way through the gears and the stutter under load had gone. But when I returned the the tick over had risen again.

So ( hopefully someone's still listening) my conclusion is that the bike had, over time built up a significant carbon depositing around the valve seats and the piston crowns. The previous owner told me he never rode the bike above 80mph. If the bike was short shifted everywhere and it was still using oil, the lack of spirited riding may have allowed significant build up of carbon deposits on the piston crowns hence the pinking under load when warmed up. I can only surmise that the removal of some of the build up on the valve seats may have allowed the exhaust valves to re-seat slightly making the previous carbon chocked clearance too tight allowing the cylinder to draw air hence the lift in tick over. I'm going to check the valve clearances again and test my theory.

Experienced oilheeds feel free to poke holes in my theory.

I blame the modern fuel thrash it abit:roll
 
compression test

Ok, carried out a compression test this morning and both pots are reading 175psi. Now to me that seems a bit high, which would support my carbon fouling theory.

What's a normal healthy reading for the R1150GS ?
 
Ok, carried out a compression test this morning and both pots are reading 175psi. Now to me that seems a bit high, which would support my carbon fouling theory.

What's a normal healthy reading for the R1150GS ?

What is a normal compression figure cold?
 
The manual states:- page 11.5

Good above 10 bar (142 psi)
Normal 8.5 to 10 bar ( 121- 142 psi)
Poor below 8.5 bar (121 psi)
 
Observation will be key, you'll need eyes in the back of your head as it hits the red line in the higher gears:D

Nah...those wheezy old things are lucky to hit 115 mph, flat out on a good day. :augie
 
Nah...those wheezy old things are lucky to hit 115 mph, flat out on a good day. :augie

I rest my case m'lud.

Mine actually makes 115 on the wee uphill straight at Knockhill before I brake , I'm sure it could manage 116 with enough time.
 
Observation will be key, you'll need eyes in the back of your head as it hits the red line in the higher gears:D

Yes, I should qualify the tests were carried out on private land:augie

Don't get me wrong I'm not looking to hoon around bouncing off the rev limiter all the time. I like a bike that will bumble around riding the torque but the pinging is annoying in 5th and 6th on the motorway.

I could probably learn to live with it but because I know it's there my OCD has taken hold. If I have to I'll strip the heads off and clean them and the piston crowns by hand.
 


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