Comfy old boots bike service resto thread

[Comfy Old Boots]

Just realized I'm missing my starter motor cover. Where the 'f' is that?!

So is the pump motor defective because it’s not getting power or does the gs911 know it’s fecked? Is the power supply to the pump motor part of the abs or is that an electrical issue elsewhere I could chase? Or is the power supply to pump motor and the defective pump motor defective the same thing? The power supply to the pump motor is the brushes? Think I’ll be trawling the old threads to get my head around this.

I’ll settle for working brakes. No idea if I’ve made a mess of the rear circuit yet. No rear wheel to attach fir obviously reasons

Yes, these two fault codes almost always go hand in hand. They are two sides of the same coin, triggered by a single physical failure.
Here is exactly how they work together:

• The Root Cause: The ABS computer tries to run the pump motor, but the internal carbon brushes have lost contact with the spinning center (commutator).
• Code 24049 (Power Supply Fault): The computer sends electrical power to the motor, but because the brushes aren't touching, the electrical circuit is completely open. The computer senses that no current is flowing and assumes there is a "faulty power supply" or open circuit to the motor.
• Code 24048 (Motor Defective): Because no current is flowing and the pump is not spinning when it is supposed to, the computer immediately concludes that the pump motor itself is broken or defective.

In short, Code 24049 is the electrical symptom, and Code 24048 is the mechanical conclusion. You do not have two separate broken parts; you have one stuck brush causing the computer to report the issue in two different ways.

Are you planning to remove and repair the module yourself, or would you like recommendations for professional ABS rebuild services that can fix this specific issue?

_______________-

well that answers that.


EDIT EDIT

This is interesting in terms of understanding Bmw wiring for a clown like me:

How to Identify the Proper Wires
Because these cables often use different color codes for the bike's main wiring loom versus the sensor tail itself, look for these common BMW matching cues:

• The Tracer Strip: One wire is usually a solid base color (like brown, yellow, or white), while the other wire has a thin, colored stripe (tracer) running down it. Make sure solid connects to solid and tracer connects to tracer.
• The Stripe Match: If both wires have stripes, match the primary base colors together.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Last diary entry. Bins tomorrow so tidied the shed.

 

[Mistacat]

Sounds like Brushes stuck in ABS Pump , dismantle clean and reassemble.
Nothing to be gained with a newer GS911 on your bike.
When the pump is working it needs cycling with the GS911 to clear air trapped in the pump.
I don't think they still fitted starter motor covers on that year , used on earlier bikes.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Sounds like Brushes stuck in ABS Pump , dismantle clean and reassemble.
Nothing to be gained with a newer GS911 on your bike.
When the pump is working it needs cycling with the GS911 to clear air trapped in the pump.
I don't think they still fitted starter motor covers on that year , used on earlier bikes.

That’s the thing I don’t see that option, nor can I see an option to part the actuators.

 

[Magwych]

As part of the 2008 model update, the starter motor cover was deleted. Stop looking, you won't find it .

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

As part of the 2008 model update, the starter motor cover was deleted. Stop looking, you won't find it .

I’m fairly certain it’s in the attic . Anyway day off today. Off to see my mum. If I can get to the dealer before they close I might spend an hour replacing the final drive bearings.

 

[Mistacat]

You don't need to to part the actuators .
Remove the motor cover and free the brushes . Known fault with motors that have stood a while.
Thread on here somewhere on doing this.
I believe it is the same pump motor as a Ford Fiesta , not sure if it is MK7 or Mk8 again info on this site somewhere.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

You don't need to to part the actuators .
Remove the motor cover and free the brushes . Known fault with motors that have stood a while.
Thread on here somewhere on doing this.
I believe it is the same pump motor as a Ford Fiesta , not sure if it is MK7 or Mk8 again info on this site somewhere.

Considering I can’t even bleed the brakes, that might be a step too far.

The pessimist in me knows I’ll get this old lump back on the road and the clutch will go

 

[landmarkjohn]

The pessimist in me knows I’ll get this old lump back on the road and the clutch will go

Now that DIY would get a lot of likes

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Now that DIY would get a lot of likes

That is a bridge too far! I’ll be happy if I can just bleed the brakes properly. The squish sound when I pull the lever is worrying.

My uncle passed away this morning so not sure what time I’ll have over the coming days. I’m eager to box this off.

I’ve a feeling this is only round one. The fork seals need doing, the seat needs reupholstering and the wheels and luggage rack need powder coating. I suspect the wheel bearings and headstock bearings could use some fresh bearings too but they can wait! Just as well I enjoy doing it all

Have a good day lads. Raining here in Dublin and I love it.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

I think this looks lovely

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Any ideas on how to get the last of the bearing out?? In both side tried heat tried my Dremmel tried prying it out. Seriously? Anyone any top tips cos I’m stuck. Tried a good hss bit and it’s just sliding across it

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Going to to bring this to a machine shop. Dammit anyway.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

They fixed it in two mins and didn’t charge. Legends!!!

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Busy afternoon. Put the final drive back together. Twice. The second time I put the front gaitor on before I fitted the swing arm. Took a lot longer than I was expecting. I’ve put the rear wheel on so I can take a look at it! I put oil in the final drive. I’ll do the rear calipers tomorrow and give everything another good clean, put the shock back on and the mud sling. I’m hoping I can righted the outer lock nut to 140 nm without moving the inner pin. A few pix

 

[CBR 46]

I hope you only put 180ml into the final drive.
Any more and it'll blow the seal.
Joe Duffy seems to be the only one with the special tool for opening the nut and charged me €450 for changing the seal a few years ago.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Can you help? I want to put the dual seat locking mechanism back on. No mention of the springs in the max Bmw fiche. any one help me with how they go back in? I'm stumped.

Also, the other picture, what is this? Came out of the seat area. Any one any idea? Is that the locking for the rear seat? I should have paid more attention when taking apart. EDIT I've figured that out, it's the luggage grid.




?

 

[Davey B]

It looks way better already, hats off to you for properly persevering with it. Good luck with the brakes...I hate messing with them too.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

It looks way better already, hats off to you for properly persevering with it. Good luck with the brakes...I hate messing with them too.

Thanks Davey. That means a lot. I"m going to grind it out tomorrow again. If I can get the back end boxed off I hope I'll feel a bit more positive about it. Feeling my age a bit. getting down to ground level is fine but getting back up after a long day is not!

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

I hope you only put 180ml into the final drive.
Any more and it'll blow the seal.
Joe Duffy seems to be the only one with the special tool for opening the nut and charged me €450 for changing the seal a few years ago.

Yeah, I'd say it was more like 170 that went in, a bit left in the cup and funnel. Which nut is that? I've not had a final drive on a 1200 open but I did a bearing change in an underground carpark in winter on an 1150 ADV!

New rubber seal went onto the drain plug.