mikecbrxx
Registered user
Me neither.... so email me at: mikecbrxx at gmail dot com
Cosmetic conversion X-Country to X-Challenge
- Thread starter mikecbrxx
- Start date
Me neither.... so email me at: mikecbrxx at gmail dot com
mikecbrxx
Registered user
Right....this information from the BMW dealer was completely WRONG !
I took the ABS off 2 weeks ago and while the bike works, the Speedo does not and the ABS light is permanently on.
Thanks to another forum member who sent me the wiring diagrams, I think that I have a solution....which has been partially confirmed. I can definitely make the ABS light go out, but need the correct connectors to confirm the speedo works.
When its sorted, I'll post the solution.
All the parts I needed arrived last week so I tried out the solution today..... and it works
So, here is what is required. Parts first:
Dataspares.com (UK) stock the correct 26 pin ECU plug and, most importantly, stock the correct crimp connectors for it. You will need to give them a call to order the connectors which come in quantities of 20. £6.40 at the moment for 20, plus postage. You only need 4 for the job.
I also wanted to maintain the correct wiring colour code so I ordered 2 metres each of brown/white, black/white, and brown at kojaycat.com (also UK). You need the 0.5mm squared thin walled cable.
Thats about it except for some sleeving, shrink tube and normal wiring connectors that I guess most people who do this will have lying around anyway. You will also need a crimp tool suitable for the connectors and a very fine (watch makers) screwdriver for pushing the connectors out and into the ECU plug.
I won't describe setting up a little loom for this, just the detail of what to connect where. I also assume that the ABS unit is gone and the front wheel sensor has been taken off....disconnected near the airbox.
So, here goes:
1) Remove the ECU plug from the back of the dash.
2) On 1 side of the plug you will see a long white 'bar' and on the opposite side, 2 smaller white bars. Push the long bar in to the plug, the 2 smaller ones will pop out the other side. This releases the locking mechanism for the connectors inside the plug.
3) identify connectors 22 (white/yellow wire).
NOTE: On the back of the plug there is some numbering to help though not every position is numbered.
4) using the small screw driver, push out the connector from the dash side of the plug. There is a special tool for this but the screwdriver, if its small enough, works fine.
5) Isolate this connector...or just cut it off and isolate the wire. It is no longer needed as it connects to the ABS.
6) repeat steps 3-5 for connector 9. white/black wire.
7) Both connection position (22 & 9) need to be filled and run to earth. So, cut 2 lengths of wire (brown to maintain bike coding). Crimp on a new connector to each piece and, using the small screwdriver, fully insert the connectors into the ECU plug. Be sure that the go all the way to the dash end so they connect properly to the dash. The other ends of the wires need to be spliced into an earth wire. I connected them to the loom side of the sidelight earth wire. This seems to be fine.
8) locate positions 26 and 6 on the connector. You should find that they have a tiny plastic blanking plug in place as they were not used on an ABS bike.
9) Remove the blanking plug.
NOTE: the next steps involve running wire to under the seat of the bike so leave plenty of spare. I created a mini looom using some black channeling and shrink tube and cable tied it to the main loom.
10) using the brown/white wire, crimp on a connector and insert it into position 26.
11) using the black/white, add a connector and insert it into position 6
12) push the 2 small white tabs back into the connector so locking all the crimp connectors in place. Then insert the ECU plug back into the dash.
If you wish, you can put ignition on here to verify that the ABS light is out. Its the earth wires that achieve that.
13) run the 2 wires to near the top of the fuel tank. Here, you should find a connector where the rear wheel sensor attaches to the main loom wiring. If you can find a new loom side connector, you can add that to the end of the 2 new wires and simply plug it in, ensuring the the wire connections correspond to the existing ones (colour).
If you don't have a spare connector;
14) cut the wire on the loom side of the plug ensuring you leave enough wire to add some connectors.
15) connect like coloured wires. brown/white to brown/white etc !
Thats it ! Put everything back together.
Happy, ABS free, riding.
I couldn't have done this without the help of 'Rone'. A belgian X rider from the German X forum and AVRider, who sent me the wiring diagrams.
LATER:
Just been out for a proper test ride and it appears that the saga isn´t over yet. My speedo works so well, that it reads twice the actual speed. SO, several possibilities now; wire in the front wheel too, or there may be a computer fix that can be applied. Will post when I have a solution.
mikecbrxx
Registered user
Working Solution, in full, for Electrics AFTER ABS is removed
As of last night, and the test ride I took this morning, it looks like I have now found a working solution to getting the bike electrics sorted after removing the ABS unit. This solution is a slight variation on what I did above, but the variations are important
I have put everything into this post so its easier to print and its all in context.
Required Parts:
From your BMW dealer, order part number: 61 13 7 696 769. This is the Diode relay which is different between ABS/Non ABS. Cost me €23
Dataspares.com (UK) stock the correct 26 pin ECU plug and, most importantly, stock the correct crimp connectors for it. You will need to give them a call to order the connectors which come in quantities of 20. £6.40 at the moment for 20, plus postage. You only need 4 for the job.
I also wanted to maintain the correct wiring colour code so I ordered 2 meters each of brown/white, black/white, and brown at Kojaycat.com (also UK). You need the 0.5mm squared thin walled cable.
To keep things tidy, you will also need some sleeving, shrink tube and normal wiring connectors that I guess most people who do this will have lying around anyway. You will also need a crimp tool suitable for the connectors and a very fine (watch makers) screwdriver for pushing the connectors out and into the ECU plug.
What to do:
I make the assumption that the ABS unit is gone, the front wheel sensor has been taken off, disconnected near the front right section of the airbox, the back of the dash is exposed, the seat and right hand side panel are removed.
1) Remove the ECU plug from the back of the dash.
2) On 1 side of the plug you will see a long white 'bar' and on the opposite side, 2 smaller white bars. Push the long bar in to the plug, the 2 smaller ones will pop out the other side. This releases the locking mechanism for the connectors inside the plug.
3) identify connector 19 (brown wire)
NOTE: On the back of the plug there is some numbering to help though not every position is numbered.
4) using the small screw driver, push out the connector from the dash side of the plug. There is a special tool for this but the screwdriver, if its small enough, works fine.
5) Keep this (earth) connector as it will be placed in another pin position.
6) identify connectors 22 (white/yellow wire), remove it and then either isolate it or just cut it off and isolate the wire. It is no longer needed as it connects to the ABS.
7) Insert the brown wire that was removed from position 19 into position 22. Be sure that it goes all the way to the dash end so a good connection is made when the plug is re-inserted into the back of the dash.
8) repeat step 6 above for connector 9. white/black wire.
9) cut a length of wire (brown to maintain bike coding). Crimp on a new connector and, using the small screwdriver, fully insert the connector into the ECU plug position 9. The other end of the wire needs to be spliced into the brown wire that was put into position 22 during step 7 above. I used a small (red) scotch lock connector here
10) locate positions 26 and 6 on the connector. You should find that they have a tiny plastic blanking plug in place as they were not used on an ABS bike.
11) Remove the blanking plugs.
NOTE: the next steps involve running wire to under the seat of the bike so leave plenty of spare. I created a mini loom using some black channeling, shrink tube, and cable tied it to the main loom. I will bind this into the loom at a later date.
12) using the brown/white wire, crimp on a connector and insert it into position 26.
13) using the black/white, add a connector and insert it into position 6
14) push the 2 small white tabs back into the connector so locking all the crimp connectors in place. Then insert the ECU plug back into the dash.
REMEMBER: in this next part, you are connecting the rear wheel sensor, to the instrument cluster... bypassing the loom!
15) run the 2 wires to near the top of the fuel tank. Here, you should find a connector where the rear wheel sensor attaches to the main loom wiring. If you can find a new loom side connector, you can add that to the end of the 2 new wires and simply plug it in, ensuring the the wire connections correspond to the existing ones (colour).
If you don't have a spare connector;
16) cut the wire on the loom side of the plug ensuring you leave enough wire to add some connectors.
17) connect like coloured wires. brown/white to brown/white etc !
18) Near the front right hand side of the airbox, you will find the small diode relay. Pull this out (5 pins) and disconnect the additional wiring (3 wires) via the connector next to it. You will understand what I mean here when you look.
19) Put the new diode into the 5 pin connector and hook back up to the airbox mounting point.
20) Cut off the 3 wire connector from the diode relay that was just removed. Leave as much of the wire on the connector side (not the relay side) as possible.
21) Remove the brown wire from the connector, it is not required.
22) Join the remaining 2 wires together using a sealed connector. What this is doing is joining the power wires from the hand brake switch to the foot brake switch so that when either is pressed, the rear brake light comes on. If you don't do this, only the foot brake will work the brake light.
23) reset the instrument cluster. The easiest way to do this is to do the following, straight from the X workshop manual.
a) The battery is disconnected.
b) Ignition key is removed.
c) Press and hold the SET button and temporarily connect battery cables.
d) Software version is displayed (1.9 on my bike) BUT, importantly, at the same time it should NOT say ABS on the display. If you did this before removing your abs and making the electrical changes above, it should say ABS here.
e) continue to hold SET button
f) Display counts down from 15 to 0.
g) Release SET button on 0
h) Display now cycles through 17 and 18.
i) when your correct rear wheel size appears, press the MODE button. Note, if you have an 18 inch rear wheel and are getting the famous 10% speed reading error (over actual) set this to 17 as it will (almost) correct this error.
j) the displayed parameters are now stored in the instrument panel.
k) disconnect the battery again so display goes off.
l) now reconnect the battery correctly, without pressing any buttons.
Job done. Put everything back together and take it for a test ride.
If anyone else makes this mod to their bike, I would really appreciate confirmation that this solution works.
As of last night, and the test ride I took this morning, it looks like I have now found a working solution to getting the bike electrics sorted after removing the ABS unit. This solution is a slight variation on what I did above, but the variations are important
I have put everything into this post so its easier to print and its all in context.
Required Parts:
From your BMW dealer, order part number: 61 13 7 696 769. This is the Diode relay which is different between ABS/Non ABS. Cost me €23
Dataspares.com (UK) stock the correct 26 pin ECU plug and, most importantly, stock the correct crimp connectors for it. You will need to give them a call to order the connectors which come in quantities of 20. £6.40 at the moment for 20, plus postage. You only need 4 for the job.
I also wanted to maintain the correct wiring colour code so I ordered 2 meters each of brown/white, black/white, and brown at Kojaycat.com (also UK). You need the 0.5mm squared thin walled cable.
To keep things tidy, you will also need some sleeving, shrink tube and normal wiring connectors that I guess most people who do this will have lying around anyway. You will also need a crimp tool suitable for the connectors and a very fine (watch makers) screwdriver for pushing the connectors out and into the ECU plug.
What to do:
I make the assumption that the ABS unit is gone, the front wheel sensor has been taken off, disconnected near the front right section of the airbox, the back of the dash is exposed, the seat and right hand side panel are removed.
1) Remove the ECU plug from the back of the dash.
2) On 1 side of the plug you will see a long white 'bar' and on the opposite side, 2 smaller white bars. Push the long bar in to the plug, the 2 smaller ones will pop out the other side. This releases the locking mechanism for the connectors inside the plug.
3) identify connector 19 (brown wire)
NOTE: On the back of the plug there is some numbering to help though not every position is numbered.
4) using the small screw driver, push out the connector from the dash side of the plug. There is a special tool for this but the screwdriver, if its small enough, works fine.
5) Keep this (earth) connector as it will be placed in another pin position.
6) identify connectors 22 (white/yellow wire), remove it and then either isolate it or just cut it off and isolate the wire. It is no longer needed as it connects to the ABS.
7) Insert the brown wire that was removed from position 19 into position 22. Be sure that it goes all the way to the dash end so a good connection is made when the plug is re-inserted into the back of the dash.
8) repeat step 6 above for connector 9. white/black wire.
9) cut a length of wire (brown to maintain bike coding). Crimp on a new connector and, using the small screwdriver, fully insert the connector into the ECU plug position 9. The other end of the wire needs to be spliced into the brown wire that was put into position 22 during step 7 above. I used a small (red) scotch lock connector here
10) locate positions 26 and 6 on the connector. You should find that they have a tiny plastic blanking plug in place as they were not used on an ABS bike.
11) Remove the blanking plugs.
NOTE: the next steps involve running wire to under the seat of the bike so leave plenty of spare. I created a mini loom using some black channeling, shrink tube, and cable tied it to the main loom. I will bind this into the loom at a later date.
12) using the brown/white wire, crimp on a connector and insert it into position 26.
13) using the black/white, add a connector and insert it into position 6
14) push the 2 small white tabs back into the connector so locking all the crimp connectors in place. Then insert the ECU plug back into the dash.
REMEMBER: in this next part, you are connecting the rear wheel sensor, to the instrument cluster... bypassing the loom!
15) run the 2 wires to near the top of the fuel tank. Here, you should find a connector where the rear wheel sensor attaches to the main loom wiring. If you can find a new loom side connector, you can add that to the end of the 2 new wires and simply plug it in, ensuring the the wire connections correspond to the existing ones (colour).
If you don't have a spare connector;
16) cut the wire on the loom side of the plug ensuring you leave enough wire to add some connectors.
17) connect like coloured wires. brown/white to brown/white etc !
18) Near the front right hand side of the airbox, you will find the small diode relay. Pull this out (5 pins) and disconnect the additional wiring (3 wires) via the connector next to it. You will understand what I mean here when you look.
19) Put the new diode into the 5 pin connector and hook back up to the airbox mounting point.
20) Cut off the 3 wire connector from the diode relay that was just removed. Leave as much of the wire on the connector side (not the relay side) as possible.
21) Remove the brown wire from the connector, it is not required.
22) Join the remaining 2 wires together using a sealed connector. What this is doing is joining the power wires from the hand brake switch to the foot brake switch so that when either is pressed, the rear brake light comes on. If you don't do this, only the foot brake will work the brake light.
23) reset the instrument cluster. The easiest way to do this is to do the following, straight from the X workshop manual.
a) The battery is disconnected.
b) Ignition key is removed.
c) Press and hold the SET button and temporarily connect battery cables.
d) Software version is displayed (1.9 on my bike) BUT, importantly, at the same time it should NOT say ABS on the display. If you did this before removing your abs and making the electrical changes above, it should say ABS here.
e) continue to hold SET button
f) Display counts down from 15 to 0.
g) Release SET button on 0
h) Display now cycles through 17 and 18.
i) when your correct rear wheel size appears, press the MODE button. Note, if you have an 18 inch rear wheel and are getting the famous 10% speed reading error (over actual) set this to 17 as it will (almost) correct this error.
j) the displayed parameters are now stored in the instrument panel.
k) disconnect the battery again so display goes off.
l) now reconnect the battery correctly, without pressing any buttons.
Job done. Put everything back together and take it for a test ride.
If anyone else makes this mod to their bike, I would really appreciate confirmation that this solution works.
mikecbrxx
Registered user
I got flamed for suggesting using the scotch lock
. Don't use one of these things, make the connection another way.
mikecbrxx
Registered user
Images of the conversion.....
Just realised that I didn't complete this thread with images.
The conversion is almost complete now. Hyperpro rear suspension went on last Wednesday (NO PHOTOS YET) and I am just waiting for my custom top rack to be powder coated....that would be the last job.
So...here are some photos of the bike going through its transition.
This is the raw material....a 2009 registered X-Country, though according to the VIN, built at the factory in September 2008.
The first job was the cosmetic conversion as I prefer the look of the Challenge over the Country. To expand on that a little. I am short (29inch inside leg) so there was no chance of me riding a stock Challenge. I already knew much of the conversion work I wanted to do would have to be done to either variation of the bike so the choice of raw material became simple. The X-Countries sell cheaper in the 2nd hand market and there are more of them....or there was when I got mine.
I managed to get all the plastics from Boonstra in the Netherlands for a reasonable price.
Fitted the large X-Tank from Hotrod Welding
Added Pivot Pegz, SR Racing Titanium Exhaust, Scheffelmier bash plate, Barkbuster handguards and Wunderlich throttle lock, and the Touratech rear chain guide.
Next job was to replace the front lights and fairing with the 'Lynx' from Britannia Composites in Canada. I didn't opt for the HID upgrade, something I regret now. While fitting this, it became clear that finding a fender that looked right may be a little difficult.
Finally, Britannia suggested using the new (2011) Husky 640E front fender...which worked very well, I think. Obviously, it needed to be black. This raised another issue about getting paint to stick to plastic. Solved through trial and error.
For luggage, we 'adjusted' a Hepco and Becker rear rack to fit. Cut off the rear footpeg mounts, replacing them with brackets welded to the steel subframe. These brackets were used for attaching the rack.
Skipping ahead slightly to now, we then made some bushes to mount a custom built rear rack made out of aluminum. This is not complete yet as the powder coating has not been done. Will pots this picture later.
In the meantime, The rear subframe got powder coated, as did the rack and various other smaller parts including the rear brake reservoir cover, sidestand, lower protection parts from Hotrod (protection for foot brake lever/switch, and Kick stand switch - though that was removed)
The wheels got upgraded to 21/18 with Excel rims, BMW hubs built up by Haan in the Netherlands.
Walter sold me some Marzochi 45mm front forks from a Husky that he wasn't using and Erik at Hotrod got the lower fork clamp machined out by 1mm so that I could use the stock triple with them. We found that the standard axle fitted so the only other part required was a small bracket from Erik to fit the brake caliper. Job done !
I replaced the ignition switch with an aftermarket part. No idea what bike it was off, but didn't need/want all the steering lock bits hanging off the dash. As you can see, from the next photo, the ignition is now in the Dash, along with the Montana 600 mounting, OEM instrument cluster, heated grip controls, and 2 12v sockets. 1 is a waterproof usb socket and the other is a standard 12v socket. This means that I now have 3 12v sockets on teh bike. More than enough.
You can see the sockets clearer from the side.
Last photos at the moment are of the seat I had made by Tony Archer. I haven't tried this yet as it waiting for me in the UK and I won't get it till the end of March.
Nearly forgot. Another mod that has been done is to replace the left bar instrument cluster with one from a KTM. This allows me to turn off my lights to conserve battery when needed. Obviously, this is more for use when off road than on.
Ok...couldn't resist putting this in. Nothing to do with my bike though. This is Erik's (Hotrod) dog, complete with 'doggles'. This is one very well traveled dog and an 'expert' sidecar passenger.
If anyone has any questions on how/why things were done, I will try and answer them.
Just realised that I didn't complete this thread with images.
The conversion is almost complete now. Hyperpro rear suspension went on last Wednesday (NO PHOTOS YET) and I am just waiting for my custom top rack to be powder coated....that would be the last job.
So...here are some photos of the bike going through its transition.
This is the raw material....a 2009 registered X-Country, though according to the VIN, built at the factory in September 2008.
The first job was the cosmetic conversion as I prefer the look of the Challenge over the Country. To expand on that a little. I am short (29inch inside leg) so there was no chance of me riding a stock Challenge. I already knew much of the conversion work I wanted to do would have to be done to either variation of the bike so the choice of raw material became simple. The X-Countries sell cheaper in the 2nd hand market and there are more of them....or there was when I got mine.
I managed to get all the plastics from Boonstra in the Netherlands for a reasonable price.
Fitted the large X-Tank from Hotrod Welding
Added Pivot Pegz, SR Racing Titanium Exhaust, Scheffelmier bash plate, Barkbuster handguards and Wunderlich throttle lock, and the Touratech rear chain guide.
Next job was to replace the front lights and fairing with the 'Lynx' from Britannia Composites in Canada. I didn't opt for the HID upgrade, something I regret now. While fitting this, it became clear that finding a fender that looked right may be a little difficult.
Finally, Britannia suggested using the new (2011) Husky 640E front fender...which worked very well, I think. Obviously, it needed to be black. This raised another issue about getting paint to stick to plastic. Solved through trial and error.
For luggage, we 'adjusted' a Hepco and Becker rear rack to fit. Cut off the rear footpeg mounts, replacing them with brackets welded to the steel subframe. These brackets were used for attaching the rack.
Skipping ahead slightly to now, we then made some bushes to mount a custom built rear rack made out of aluminum. This is not complete yet as the powder coating has not been done. Will pots this picture later.
In the meantime, The rear subframe got powder coated, as did the rack and various other smaller parts including the rear brake reservoir cover, sidestand, lower protection parts from Hotrod (protection for foot brake lever/switch, and Kick stand switch - though that was removed)
The wheels got upgraded to 21/18 with Excel rims, BMW hubs built up by Haan in the Netherlands.
Walter sold me some Marzochi 45mm front forks from a Husky that he wasn't using and Erik at Hotrod got the lower fork clamp machined out by 1mm so that I could use the stock triple with them. We found that the standard axle fitted so the only other part required was a small bracket from Erik to fit the brake caliper. Job done !
I replaced the ignition switch with an aftermarket part. No idea what bike it was off, but didn't need/want all the steering lock bits hanging off the dash. As you can see, from the next photo, the ignition is now in the Dash, along with the Montana 600 mounting, OEM instrument cluster, heated grip controls, and 2 12v sockets. 1 is a waterproof usb socket and the other is a standard 12v socket. This means that I now have 3 12v sockets on teh bike. More than enough.
You can see the sockets clearer from the side.
Last photos at the moment are of the seat I had made by Tony Archer. I haven't tried this yet as it waiting for me in the UK and I won't get it till the end of March.
Nearly forgot. Another mod that has been done is to replace the left bar instrument cluster with one from a KTM. This allows me to turn off my lights to conserve battery when needed. Obviously, this is more for use when off road than on.
Ok...couldn't resist putting this in. Nothing to do with my bike though. This is Erik's (Hotrod) dog, complete with 'doggles'. This is one very well traveled dog and an 'expert' sidecar passenger.
If anyone has any questions on how/why things were done, I will try and answer them.
RoneR6
Registered user
- Joined
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You did really a nice job on your bike 
But, I'm curious about something. As you know, I also took off the ABS from my XChallenge. During my Africa trip, I offen noticed that after a rough piece of gravel, the rear brake came open. (the brake pads came separate from the disc instead of being brushed against) Therefore you need to pump a few times before you rear back is working. On the microfiche you can find that the rear master cylinder different on an ABS bike than on a non ABS bike. That's why I think that this can be the reason.
So I'm wondering if you will notice the same.(but I don't think you will go offen on heavy off road)
But, I'm curious about something. As you know, I also took off the ABS from my XChallenge. During my Africa trip, I offen noticed that after a rough piece of gravel, the rear brake came open. (the brake pads came separate from the disc instead of being brushed against) Therefore you need to pump a few times before you rear back is working. On the microfiche you can find that the rear master cylinder different on an ABS bike than on a non ABS bike. That's why I think that this can be the reason.
So I'm wondering if you will notice the same.(but I don't think you will go offen on heavy off road)
mikecbrxx
Registered user
You did really a nice job on your bike
But, I'm curious about something. As you know, I also took off the ABS from my XChallenge. During my Africa trip, I offen noticed that after a rough piece of gravel, the rear brake came open. (the brake pads came separate from the disc instead of being brushed against) Therefore you need to pump a few times before you rear back is working. On the microfiche you can find that the rear master cylinder different on an ABS bike than on a non ABS bike. That's why I think that this can be the reason.
So I'm wondering if you will notice the same.(but I don't think you will go offen on heavy off road)
Hmmm interesting. I can't really see how it can be associated with the rear master cylinder though. I would have thought that this would most likely be caused by a warped rear brake disc.
When I first bought my bike, I found that the front brake was doing that and we tracked it down to very slight warping of the front disc. The problem went away as soon as it was replaced. Maybe you have the same problem in your rear disc? Maybe it is even as simple as one or more of the small fiber washers that sit between the disk and hub being missing......
If this only happens on rough gravel....is this the time you most use your rear brake? It could explain why it is not noticeable at other times...
mikecbrxx
Registered user
Strange.... I am seeing Bas tomorrow and will mention the problem to him.
I have also driven very fast over speed bumps....both wheels off tarmac, and have not had the same issue.
I have also driven very fast over speed bumps....both wheels off tarmac, and have not had the same issue.
Bumped into Mike today at some services on the A14, must say he has made a superb job of his conversion from x country to x challenge! photos dont do it justice.
Good to have met you Mike.
Good to have met you Mike.
mikecbrxx
Registered user
Great to meat you too
Just got back to the Netherlands after 5 days in UK.....back to work for a rest
mikecbrxx
Registered user
To round off the story, the converted bike is now in Almaty, Kazakhstan......and I will be joining it this weekend for a 5 week blast.
My blog for the trip is here.....http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=804957
Sent from my GT-P6800 using Tapatalk 2
My blog for the trip is here.....http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=804957
Sent from my GT-P6800 using Tapatalk 2
How did the seat fare, was it ok?
mikecbrxx
Registered user
No, very unhappy. Wasn't going to post anything about it as he was very busy at the time so maybe it was a 'glitch'.
What happened was that he did the wrong job on my seat (didn't lower it or put in the gel pad), so I had to send it back. He then charged me again for re-doing it, and due to circumstances and shortness of time before I had to ship the bike, I had to pay an international delivery charge on top.
The seat, even after both attempts at it, was too high and not usable. Even the stitching was not correctly aligned.
I took my standard low seat instead. Have to re-visit this seat issue and see what can be done.
Cheers Mike
How was 10,000 miles on your low BMW seat?
I think if I go over I will take both BMW seats (high and low) and show him exactly the height I want
I have a couple of high seats, so that's the one he'll work on
I'll also see what foams he has and I think I'll choose a 'memory' foam or firm foam
I'll then collect it to make sure the work is satisfactory
mikecbrxx
Registered user
Surprisingly OK. The one thing that must be changed is the cover, plastic to leather. If my high seat isn't salvageable after all the messing, I may just get the low one recovered.
swinfurkon
Registered user
hi Mike
the images you posted dont seem to be loading, are you able to email them to a personal emial address? I have a Xcountry and in the process of turning it into a Xchallenge as well
thanks
the images you posted dont seem to be loading, are you able to email them to a personal emial address? I have a Xcountry and in the process of turning it into a Xchallenge as well
thanks
mikecbrxx
Registered user
Possibly I moved them....I'll see if I can repair the links. However, quite happy to send what I have to you.
mikecbrxx
Registered user
Actually, this is exactly what I did at Tijger Leathers in Den Haag. I'll post am image when I have a moment. They even embroidered my tattoo onto the seat.
mikecbrxx
Registered user
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