Dang! G/S warning lights....

[Rob Farmer]

Nice one colt

It just so happens I have the tool for removing those terminals from the housing and a set of new terminals that fit in there if needed

 

[Colt]

looks like it might be a runner then.
now this is a rare part i have

 

[Rob Farmer]

looks like it might be a runner then.
now this is a rare part i have

And we have the photos of you, your "friend" the sheep and some good image manipulation software

 

[bakerlonglegs]

You BEAUTY!!!!!!! GET IN!!
Cheers Colt - PM on the way

 

[Kenny]

Flippin eck guys, what a result !!

Jason, I need a blow up sheep if you have one

 

[Colt]

well ,you got it sorted yet?

 

[bakerlonglegs]

Hi - thanks very much for the wiring

As for the bike, weeeelllllll, it's like this.....

I had intended to get the bike serviced and MOT'ed, ride it over the summer and then rebuild over winter. However, when I started the servicing work the more I found the more I thought 'sod it, let's start now....'

I've done more since that pic was taken - the handlebars, cables, clocks and wiring are off now. (The choke cables are bizarre - they reach out beyond the back end of the bike .) It's a slow job, especially for someone learning their way like me - every single nut, bolt and screw is rusted on . As every part comes off I'm then into cleaning it and working out whether to keep it or relace with new or 2nd hand bits.

It wasn't just the warning light wiring that was cut and taped, there's bodges all over the loom, for example I'm sure there's supposed to be some sort of relay where this yellow/green wire is jammed in (LHS of pic).....

The rear light loom was junk too - it was cut and taped halfway along, and under the lens some of the connectors were missing and bare wires just wrapped around the terminals.

The frame's a little rusty....

After my question on here about frame finishing I'll be contacting companies with a list of bits to blast and finish. There's also the wheels and carbs and the engine and all the nuts and bolts and..... and...... and.....

Of course, what I'd really like is a PD tank to finish it all off....

 

[(RIP) Proff]

it is going to look so so nice when finished
Don't forget it's got to be done by Hogroast !!!!!
I've just collected a basket case for a friend, and he paid way to much for it.
IRO £2K
At least we know yours RUNS and it sounds Luvverly.
He doesn't

 

[bakerlonglegs]

it is going to look so so nice when finished
Don't forget it's got to be done by Hogroast !!!!!
I've just collected a basket case for a friend, and he paid way to much for it.
IRO £2K
At least we know yours RUNS and it sounds Luvverly.
He doesn't

Hi Keith - nice new avatar!

£2K!!!!

Ready for the Hogroast??!!! (I really have to think when spelling that now ) Ermmm.... I was thinking more East Mids...... I'll see what I can do but really dependent on others from next week onwards, as frame, wheels and engine go out for fettling....

 

[Rob Farmer]

Andy,

It's your starter relay thats missing. It could have just screwed up and been bodged. I haven't had a chance to get to the post office with those tools yet, hopefully tommorrow. I'll have a look to see if I've got a spare starter relay laying about, if I have I'll put it in the box with the tools. If you can wait a week I'll make you up a new tail light harness FOC - The insulation on mines cracked so it's no problem to make another one at the same time.

 

[Rob Farmer]

Yep! Got one

 

[bakerlonglegs]

Rob, you are an absolute gent
Thanks very much for the offer, but don't worry about the tail light loom - as soon as I saw what a mess the old one was I got one ordered from Motorworks, it arrived last night (along with a stack of other stuff to replace rusted bits and things I've already banjaxed beyond repair ). However, that starter relay would be very handy. Please let me give you some wedge for it (or at least nominate your fav charity for a donation, s'least I can do).

Final request for the night - got any hints for how to get a seized front engine mount out? The threads are already scrap from the amount of rust and my hammering, but it won't shift . I'm loath to thump it too hard in case I damage the frame or engine. Next step was going to be a small blowtorch to apply a small amount of heat to the frame lugs (not cherry red) then a few more taps. What do you reckon?

Beer o'clock....

 

[(RIP) Proff]

Old trick that still works

You won't believe this
I soaked a cloth in vinegar and Diesel, and wrapped it around the joints of my bolts and frame, left it over night and the rust fairies gave up without much of a struggle
that was in 1980 on my R60/6
Nowadays I'd put a squirt of 3 in 1 oil as well cos Diesel ain't so oily as it was when I was younger

 

[Rob Farmer]

I had the same problem with my r100. It had stood for 10 years leaving just about everything siezed solid. Is there any chance you could get one of the nuts on one of the threads? After a good soaking in diesel or a load of penetrating oil use a socket and long breaker bar to try and get it moving just a bit and then more oil. I'd taken a hammer to just one of the threads so had to use a die to retrieve the thread and then wind it back and forwards using the nuts. It took me two days of inching the bar backwards and forwards a fraction of a turn at a time and then soaking it in oil again.

If you have hammered both ends of the engine bolt I'm stumped I guess i'd spring the frame and cut through the engine bolt with my recip saw and then try to deal with whats left in the block once the engine was out. If it was still stuck in the block once the engine was out I'd be buttering Proff up for the G/S crankcases I gave him

 

[(RIP) Proff]

I had the same problem with my r100. It had stood for 10 years leaving just about everything siezed solid. Is there any chance you could get one of the nuts on one of the threads? After a good soaking in diesel or a load of penetrating oil use a socket and long breaker bar to try and get it moving just a bit and then more oil. I'd taken a hammer to just one of the threads so had to use a die to retrieve the thread and then wind it back and forwards using the nuts. It took me two days of inching the bar backwards and forwards a fraction of a turn at a time and then soaking it in oil again.

If you have hammered both ends of the engine bolt I'm stumped I guess i'd spring the frame and cut through the engine bolt with my recip saw and then try to deal with whats left in the block once the engine was out. If it was still stuck in the block once the engine was out I'd be buttering Proff up for the G/S crankcases I gave him

No Probs
we are the Elite Airhead section after all

 

[bakerlonglegs]

Thanks for the advice chaps!

It's a good job I stopped hammering and asked the question when I did! I really should lock the hammers and power tools away in box with a big sign on the front that says "Are you SURE this is a good idea?"

I've managed to get both nuts back on the bar, but nothing moving yet so it'll be a few days of soaking (I'll give the vinegar ruse a go!) and tweaking to see if I can free it up.

 

[(RIP) Proff]

Thanks for the advice chaps!

It's a good job I stopped hammering and asked the question when I did! I really should lock the hammers and power tools away in box with a big sign on the front that says "Are you SURE this is a good idea?"

I've managed to get both nuts back on the bar, but nothing moving yet so it'll be a few days of soaking (I'll give the vinegar ruse a go!) and tweaking to see if I can free it up.

put some nice washers on the bolt then the nut wind one and see if it will start pulling the bolt[threaded stud] through the engine, softly softly tho.
IF the stud starts turning your halfway there, means it's freeing off in the engine casings.
plenty of GOOD penetrating oil/vinegar/ diesel mix will help.
Once you get nut to end of threaded portion of stud, take off and more washers or spacers of some sort and repeat
We ARE expecting photos of the progress.
Don't worry ALL airhead owners have done this at least once

{ Barring the rich ones who let BWM main dealers do it }

 

[Rob Farmer]

It will come loose eventually. Halfords do some really long breaker bars that have taken everything i've thrown at them. I used a 4ft one to loosen my engine bolt and still had to give it some serious welly to get things moving.

Thats good advice from Proff about building up the number of washers.

 

[(RIP) Proff]

It will come loose eventually. Halfords do some really long breaker bars that have taken everything i've thrown at them. I used a 4ft one to loosen my engine bolt and still had to give it some serious welly to get things moving.

Thats good advice from Proff about building up the number of washers.

Thank you O' obi wan Farmer

 

[Rob Farmer]

Thank you O' obi wan Farmer

Get away you soft sod. it's you giving the info as well...I guess we've both spent too many hours spannering rusty old beemers