Delboy777
Registered user
Yes i meant the alternator AA, the starter wssnt fit to turn engine over because the drive belt is connected to crank pulley as you well know. Eventually the engine turned over when the belt snapped !!
Dead?
- Thread starter G5RJO
- Start date
AberdeenAngus
Registered user
Ouch !
Bendy toy
Registered user
They do that when winter salt gets into the windings.
Delboy777
Registered user
Exactly what had happened to my one bendy. Then it sat in the dealership for almost a year before i bought it. That started it off. I always thought the bat was on its way out. I got it in november then laid it up over winter. When it came time to take it out in spring it was solid. 
Luckily it was under warranty so was repaired by stealer.
Luckily it was under warranty so was repaired by stealer.An update...
Spent some time playing with a multimeter this morning. (Before I had to head off to work in the car again). Now I'm no electrician to be honest, reading volts and continuity... that's your lot.
There's 12v+ at the post on the back of the starter.
The engine / chassis is a good earth.
I pulled the small spade connector off the starter and it does get a 12v+ feed when the starter button is pressed.
I made up a jumper cable and plugged it onto the spade connector, ignition on and touch the bare end of said jumper cable on the live post on the starter...... IT STARTED
I understand that the start button sends 12v+ to the starter relay (That I can hear click) and the relay sends 12v+ to the spade connector on the starter... so... why can I pick up 12v on the feed wire with the press but it doesn't start where the jumper lead works perfectly?
Confused..... Any elictrickery gods out there
I've got a GS911 and for the life of me I couldn't find the function where it tests side stand switches and clutch switches..... age I suppose. Reminders welcome just in case that's the problem.
Roger.
Spent some time playing with a multimeter this morning. (Before I had to head off to work in the car again). Now I'm no electrician to be honest, reading volts and continuity... that's your lot.
There's 12v+ at the post on the back of the starter.
The engine / chassis is a good earth.
I pulled the small spade connector off the starter and it does get a 12v+ feed when the starter button is pressed.
I made up a jumper cable and plugged it onto the spade connector, ignition on and touch the bare end of said jumper cable on the live post on the starter...... IT STARTED
I understand that the start button sends 12v+ to the starter relay (That I can hear click) and the relay sends 12v+ to the spade connector on the starter... so... why can I pick up 12v on the feed wire with the press but it doesn't start where the jumper lead works perfectly?
Confused..... Any elictrickery gods out there
I've got a GS911 and for the life of me I couldn't find the function where it tests side stand switches and clutch switches..... age I suppose. Reminders welcome just in case that's the problem.
Roger.
Hi Roger, I'm no electrician either, but I understand that just because you are getting 12v out of the relay doesn't necessarily mean you are getting many amperes. Apparently you need both to turn the starter and thus the engine. Someone will be along soon with a better diagnosis I hope.
An update...
Spent some time playing with a multimeter this morning. (Before I had to head off to work in the car again). Now I'm no electrician to be honest, reading volts and continuity... that's your lot.
There's 12v+ at the post on the back of the starter.
The engine / chassis is a good earth.
I pulled the small spade connector off the starter and it does get a 12v+ feed when the starter button is pressed.
I made up a jumper cable and plugged it onto the spade connector, ignition on and touch the bare end of said jumper cable on the live post on the starter...... IT STARTED
I understand that the start button sends 12v+ to the starter relay (That I can hear click) and the relay sends 12v+ to the spade connector on the starter... so... why can I pick up 12v on the feed wire with the press but it doesn't start where the jumper lead works perfectly?
Confused..... Any elictrickery gods out there
I've got a GS911 and for the life of me I couldn't find the function where it tests side stand switches and clutch switches..... age I suppose. Reminders welcome just in case that's the problem.
Roger.
Without trawling back through all the posts - and on the assumption that in the post above - you are bypassing the relay?
The relay, and any other connection is capable of delivering 12v, without the capability of delivering significant amps. Usually this happens with loose connections, or a few strands of a conductor only in contact with terminals.
In the case of a relay - it could be burned contacts.
I would get hold of a replacement relay, and try that.
Al
To check side stand, clutch, starter switch etc. with GS911, select model - Engine - Real Time Values.
If the bike has spot lights the spot light relay is next to the starter relay and they are interchangeable. Easy to test.
The coil feeds on the relay come straight from the ECU. ( the fact that the starter relay is clicking means that side stand switches etc. are ok.
Check the voltage at the 1/4" spade on the starter solenoid with the cable connected. ( under load ).
If the voltage drops out under load or isn't there when you activate the relay I would suggest a jumper wire from the battery to the red wire on the relay. ( the feed wire can break in the loom)
If the bike has spot lights the spot light relay is next to the starter relay and they are interchangeable. Easy to test.
The coil feeds on the relay come straight from the ECU. ( the fact that the starter relay is clicking means that side stand switches etc. are ok.
Check the voltage at the 1/4" spade on the starter solenoid with the cable connected. ( under load ).
If the voltage drops out under load or isn't there when you activate the relay I would suggest a jumper wire from the battery to the red wire on the relay. ( the feed wire can break in the loom)
Bendy toy
Registered user
I've had loom wires adjacent to the battery chafe against the frame. They are only just long enough and clipped very tightly.
BigDan
Registered user
Battery can still be the fault even when you try jumping from a car battery. I've had it in the past, the battery showed 12 volts but the minute you tried to draw any power it just collapsed.
Seriously, start with the simplest option. Try a new battery.
Motobatt yellow
Seriously, start with the simplest option. Try a new battery.
Motobatt yellow
Folks,
It's NOT the battery.
It's something to do with the positive trigger to the starter. The battery is solid. When I jump the spade connector to the constant live on the starter motor it starts instantly off the battery. Thats how I'm starting it now. looks dodgy but it works.
My digital multimeter shows +12v at the feed at the starter and a +12v at the trigger feed when I press the start button.
Clearly it doesn't have enough clout (technical term) in the trigger feed to make a connection and trip the relay.
What isn't clear at this stage, and not easily ascertainable (by me anyway) is if the problem in the trigger feed is before or after the starter relay.
I'm going to have the tank off on Saturday when I have more time and will run a parallel wire to replace them both. Whilst in there I'll probably double up on the main earth lead and the leads to the starter from the battery and between alternator and starter... a preventative measure perhaps... can't hurt.
Will let you know the outcome.
Roger.
It's NOT the battery.
It's something to do with the positive trigger to the starter. The battery is solid. When I jump the spade connector to the constant live on the starter motor it starts instantly off the battery. Thats how I'm starting it now. looks dodgy but it works.
My digital multimeter shows +12v at the feed at the starter and a +12v at the trigger feed when I press the start button.
Clearly it doesn't have enough clout (technical term) in the trigger feed to make a connection and trip the relay.
What isn't clear at this stage, and not easily ascertainable (by me anyway) is if the problem in the trigger feed is before or after the starter relay.
I'm going to have the tank off on Saturday when I have more time and will run a parallel wire to replace them both. Whilst in there I'll probably double up on the main earth lead and the leads to the starter from the battery and between alternator and starter... a preventative measure perhaps... can't hurt.
Will let you know the outcome.
Roger.
If you're seeing 12v at the trigger on the starter then the relay is switching (or you'd see nothing at the starter when you press the button) - as you and others have surmised, it looks like you aren't getting enough current to trigger the starter solenoid (they need a reasonable thump - it's a decent sized coil). So the problem is between the relay and the starter. As others have said, I'd start by swapping out the relay and if that doesn't cure it run a jumper to replace the feed between the relay and the starter solenoid.
Alive !!!
Found it...
Firstly thanks to BMW for moving the starter relay to possibly the most inaccessible place .
Buried under the ECU just above the alternator. Thanks.
Panels off, tank off, it was full and a real bugger getting it back on, anyway.....
The 12v feed wire to the starter relay was hanging on by a thread and as soon as I touched it, it disintegrated with all the corrosion.
Rewired it, new connectors straight onto the relay this time. It works
Whilst I was in there I replaced (Well, doubled up) the earth strap that didn't look overly healthy and doubled up on the wiring to the starter solenoid as well. Even put on a new battery lead from the alternator to the battery and starter motor itself. That should last another few miles....
May even wash it now... Perhaps not.
Thanks for all the input..
Roger.
Found it...
Firstly thanks to BMW for moving the starter relay to possibly the most inaccessible place .
Buried under the ECU just above the alternator. Thanks.
Panels off, tank off, it was full and a real bugger getting it back on, anyway.....
The 12v feed wire to the starter relay was hanging on by a thread and as soon as I touched it, it disintegrated with all the corrosion.
Rewired it, new connectors straight onto the relay this time. It works
Whilst I was in there I replaced (Well, doubled up) the earth strap that didn't look overly healthy and doubled up on the wiring to the starter solenoid as well. Even put on a new battery lead from the alternator to the battery and starter motor itself. That should last another few miles....
May even wash it now... Perhaps not.
Thanks for all the input..
Roger.
Maverickfb
Registered user
Mine did this for the last couple of years, I changed the battery once and even though plugged into a good smart optimate when laid up, bike struggled to start.
Until one day, there was some smoke coming from engine , scary lol.
It turns out that the belt snapped, causing a bit of smoke the belt snapped because the alternate totally seized
Any way, with out alternator connected to engine it starts with no issues in fact runs very smooth.
So get someone to check your alternator, you should get around at least 14v through it when running. And chances are cranky noise is a sign of the alternator on its way out
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Until one day, there was some smoke coming from engine , scary lol.
It turns out that the belt snapped, causing a bit of smoke the belt snapped because the alternate totally seized
Any way, with out alternator connected to engine it starts with no issues in fact runs very smooth.
So get someone to check your alternator, you should get around at least 14v through it when running. And chances are cranky noise is a sign of the alternator on its way out
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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