Drive shaft coming away from gearbox?

Deleted account 211025001

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I've just started a service and first off was the FD unit.

Dropping it down off the swingarm was a right pain and when it finally dropped (only about 100' from vertical) it seems to have taken the drive shaft with it and is still connected. It hasn't split between the UJ and the FD unit as it usually does.

The pictures, I hope, shows where the UJ is positioned which says to me that the shaft has come away from the gearbox end. I thought however that it was held in place at this end with a circlip?

Somebody please tell me I'm a stoopid twat and have missed something obvious, otherwise, it's a swingarm out job - isn't it :nenau

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Andres
 
Andres just to be Helpful of course! You Stoopid Twat

Anyway It's not really a bad thing as you can Do that stoopid right side pivot and grease the swingarm bearings Undo the Speed sensor in the under seat storage thing rather than removing from the fd Cos all yer oil will fall out!

A nice smear of decent optimoly type grease on yer splines and it shouldn't happen next time

There "may" be a chance to get it back in but probably slim!"
 
Andres just to be Helpful of course! You Stoopid Twat

Anyway It's not really a bad thing as you can Do that stoopid right side pivot and grease the swingarm bearings Undo the Speed sensor in the under seat storage thing rather than removing from the fd Cos all yer oil will fall out!

A nice smear of decent optimoly type grease on yer splines and it shouldn't happen next time

There "may" be a chance to get it back in but probably slim!"

Arghhhhhhh...........I wasn't planning on doing a 'MikeP' type service :P

IIRC the drive shaft is held in at the gearbox end with a ciriclip so I don't see a way of just working the shaft back in 'as is' - bollox :(

Andres
 
Are ya sure it's off the gearbox end before you panic any more?

Stick box in gear and rotate disc? Disc Stops = still attached

Spins merrily while you burst into tears beyond all consolation = It's gotta come out :-(
 
What circlip?

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Andres

Edit:

You got me thinking and I've now checked on the WMB CDRom and there is no circlip mentioned there - so should be ok to work back in without dismantling?

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Does anybody have a definitive answer from experience?

Andres
 
I had exactly the same problem.
Removed the FD ,with shaft still attached,eventually seperated FD from the shaft,PITA,hammered,prised,cussed,but it eventually came apart.
Cleaned and greased everything,pulled back the boot at the gearbox end
and refitted the shaft,took about 2 mins,then re fitted the FD.
:nenau
 
I had exactly the same problem.
Removed the FD ,with shaft still attached,eventually seperated FD from the shaft,PITA,hammered,prised,cussed,but it eventually came apart.
Cleaned and greased everything,pulled back the boot at the gearbox end
and refitted the shaft,took about 2 mins,then re fitted the FD.
:nenau

That's the sort of thing I need to hear - think you missed my edit but would seem to tie in with that - thanks :beerjug:

Andres
 
Cleaned and greased everything,pulled back the boot at the gearbox end
and refitted the shaft,took about 2 mins,then re fitted the FD.
:nenau

Spot on. On a 1200 there is no need whatsoever to remove the swingarm. :thumb

As JPR has said, you cut the cable tie on the gearbox gaiter, pull the gaiter back and you can guide the driveshaft onto the gearbox output shaft. Give it a whack when it's in place to secure the circlip (fitted internally in the driveshaft, so don't worry if you can't see it), and swing the final drive back up into place.
 
Spot on. On a 1200 there is no need whatsoever to remove the swingarm. :thumb

As JPR has said, you cut the cable tie on the gearbox gaiter, pull the gaiter back and you can guide the driveshaft onto the gearbox output shaft. Give it a whack when it's in place to secure the circlip (fitted internally in the driveshaft, so don't worry if you can't see it), and swing the final drive back up into place.

On the case now - thanks :)

Andres
 
not a problem.

As per Steptoe. Been there and done it a few times. Leave bike in gear when attaching the shaft to the gearbox. You need to insert a couple of fingers into the tight gap round the gaiter to support the UJ joint and align it before giving it a shove on the other end to pop it onto the output shaft.

Mixed emotions when it does go on. Happy because it has and running round the garage shouting "f*ck" because it pinched your fingers as it popped on. DAMHIK.

Roger.
 
Anyway It's not really a bad thing as you can do that stoopid right side pivot and grease the swingarm bearings Undo the Speed sensor in the under seat storage thing rather than removing from the fd Cos all yer oil will fall out!

This wont fix the damaged/missing circlip issue, but...

Why do bike makers insist on using needle rollers for bearings that move only a few degrees back & forth? The same bits of the same needles running on the same bit of the races get all the stick so they wear rapidly. There's really no excuse all the plain bearing technology we have these days.
 
Hows it going Andres?

Honest answer?

Well, I've been off poorly today so couldn't face doing it :rolleyes: but have done all the other service stuff; fluids, brakes, plugs, valve clearances etc etc :)

I'm under 'pressure' to sand the kitchen work tops and re-oil them so that may have to be done first :( Should be done by the w/e though.......I'll let you know.

Andres
 
I'm under 'pressure' to sand the kitchen work tops and re-oil them so that may have to be done first :( Should be done by the w/e though.......I'll let you know.

Andres

What oil?






Oh ok. Osmo polyx worktop oil, top stuff, just a couple of coats and its fool proof to apply:thumb2
 
... sand the kitchen work tops and re-oil them so that may have to be done first :( ...

ooooh - i love refinishing wood. :bounce1
suggestion;
use a razor blade/stanley blade to scrape first - gets rid of load of cack, highlights the worst bits ( i work to get the worst as good as i can and then match the rest to THAT) and saves on a sh*tload of sanding gear. :thumb2

sorry - a 'little' off topic. :augie
 
What oil?

Oh ok. Osmo polyx worktop oil, top stuff, just a couple of coats and its fool proof to apply:thumb2

ooooh - i love refinishing wood. :bounce1
suggestion;
use a razor blade/stanley blade to scrape first - gets rid of load of cack, highlights the worst bits ( i work to get the worst as good as i can and then match the rest to THAT) and saves on a sh*tload of sanding gear. :thumb2

sorry - a 'little' off topic. :augie

Only on this site can a thread on drive shafts turn into a thread on 'what oil' for wood :D

Shep, I'm using 'Danish Oil' and need to stick with it as it needs to match some other wood surfaces already done this way but ta :) and thanks Og, I'll give that a go :thumb2

Andres
 
Danish oil is very good just a bit 1970's really & so many coats needed as well.:eek

Good luck

:thumb2
 


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