Drive shaft coming away from gearbox?

1. Bike in gear. Must be in gear or output shaft will just turn when trying to align it radially.

2. Insert fingers into the bottom of the pulled back gaiter, yes it's tight, there's not much space.

3. Lift the end of the shaft to align it to the output shaft. I found wearing a small head torch helps to see what's oing on.

Left hand twists the wheel end of the shaft to align the splines. Once the end of the shaft is square it will pop on, honest.

Persist, it will go on.

Roger.
 
The other way I've seen it done is ith the hlp of a bit of string.

In post 7 there's an image of the end of the drive shaft. Turn it radially by 90 degrees and tie string thought the UJ to lift it up to align it.

This may help if you have big sausage fingers:blast

Oh, and ignore mention of the circlip, it will be there. What you could do is pull the shaft out completely from the wheel end. You could clean and grease the splines if you fancy it. That 'may' help it pop on.

Don't forget to remove the string after.....

Roger.
 
1. Bike in gear. Must be in gear or output shaft will just turn when trying to align it radially.

2. Insert fingers into the bottom of the pulled back gaiter, yes it's tight, there's not much space.

3. Lift the end of the shaft to align it to the output shaft. I found wearing a small head torch helps to see what's oing on.

Left hand twists the wheel end of the shaft to align the splines. Once the end of the shaft is square it will pop on, honest.

Persist, it will go on.

Roger.

Just use a long screwdriver in the UJ of the shaft (screwdriver does two jobs, it also helps hold back the gaiter ;)) to lift it onto the gearbox output shaft.
 
Off out into the garage now :rob

Just gotta work out how to separate the FD from the drive shaft first, putting back together again seems a piece of piss in comparison :D

Andres
 
Inbetween sanding and oiling kitchen work tops and bouts of man flu (now made worse by a flu jab at the GP's yesterday :blast) I gave up trying to get the drive shaft out of the FD in situ and now have a separated FD still with the drive shaft attached :rolleyes:

I'll be off in a bit to attack it with a lump hammer - in the mean time, has anybody 'been there, done that' and has any top tips :nenau

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Andres
 
Hi Andres,
I tried the big licks with a big hammer and got nowhere.Stuck like shit to a blanket.
In the end I codged up a little mild steel drift that would fit in the gap between the UJ ,there was a few mm of the FD splined shaft showing thru.
Kept tapping,squrting release oil,and eventuall acheived some movement.
Used small washers packed on top of the splined shaft to take up gap and eventuall the FD come away.
Bit Heath Robinson but saved my sanity!
Have fun !
 
Before making up a drift...........

...........I tried one final lump hammer attack :D

FD supported against the vice and clout the damping rod section of the drive shaft and eventually the shaft was separated from the FD :)
What a palaver just to change the FD oil - still, at least it's given me the chance to clean and re-grease everything.......

Just got to put it all back together again now :rolleyes:

Thanks again for all the help :beerjug:

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Andres
 
Piece of p*ss

What about all those people on here who say you might as well change the final drive oil every time you do a service, as it's a piece of p*ss, takes 10 minutes and gives you peace of mind? That is not always true, it would seem from this thread....
 
What about all those people on here who say you might as well change the final drive oil every time you do a service, as it's a piece of p*ss, takes 10 minutes and gives you peace of mind? That is not always true, it would seem from this thread....

Having done it once,shouldnt be a problem after that,with everything cleaned and lubed.
Id advise everyone to have a look at the rear splines to avoid a more serious problem in the future.
Mine were dry as a bone,covered in surface rust,and I couldnt find any signs of lube.:eek:
Jim
 


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