Drive shaft snap rings

[hutchy]

Took the FD off tonight 2004 1150gsa 41k

I checked the rear wheel at the 3-9 and the 6-12 for movement

Very tiny amount at the 3-9 but about 1mm at the 6-12

Re torqued the paralever bearing no change to the movement

Then I did my usual stunt and pulled the FD (only way to learn if your self teaching!)

Anyways no issues removing FD

But I'm sure the drive shaft attached to the Bevel box is meant to be attached via a snap ring circling call it what you want when the FD is removed, and then you pop it off

Well mine wasn't it remained attached to the main drive shaft and I found this little issue

Look closer, the snap ring is bent out of its recess

And a small nick on the other side taken out of it too

Anyone know what caused it and what the fix is?

The rest of the FD looked grand

And why do I have play at 6-12 am I missing something in the searches I have done?

Thanks all

H

 

[Timolgra]

Steptoe will know more but you may get away with just a new snap ring.

Regarding the play, did you check it with the rear brake applied first?

 

[hops]

Try having a 2nd person apply the rear brake whilst you check for the play, if it goes away your main bearing may be at fault. As for the circlip, if the driveshaft is okay just replace it & refit the shaft. It should be retained on the shaft by the circlip I believe.

 

[Timolgra]

Try having a 2nd person apply the rear brake whilst you check for the play,

I use a block of wood to jam the lever down for that

 

[hutchy]

Steptoe will know more but you may get away with just a new snap ring.

Regarding the play, did you check it with the rear brake applied first?

Ermmmm nope

I'm kind of a mong and am on the curve of knowledge :|

But will do that on post FD refit

Cheers Tim

 

[hutchy]

Try having a 2nd person apply the rear brake whilst you check for the play, if it goes away your main bearing may be at fault. As for the circlip, if the driveshaft is okay just replace it & refit the shaft. It should be retained on the shaft by the circlip I believe.

I'm not sure the drive shaft is ok

Fair wee chunk gouged out of it

 

[hutchy]

I use a block of wood to jam the lever down for that

I will use that idea

Thanks again Tim

 

[hutchy]

Guess I have done it arse about face

I should have checked play with and without the rear brake applied

Lesson learnt

 

[Antti]

Just the other day I managed to bend snapring while changin arm bearings.

I did just dig it out, straightened it and assembled back. And it snapped just OK.
Its made out of quite soft metal.

 

[Steptoe]

Guess I have done it arse about face

I should have checked play with and without the rear brake applied

Lesson learnt

You should have tried adjusting the paralever bearings and taking out the "play" before doing anything else.

can't help with the snap ring as i've never needed to buy one, and never seen one mullered like the one you've shown.

 

[hutchy]

You should have tried adjusting the paralever bearings and taking out the "play" before doing anything else.

can't help with the snap ring as i've never needed to buy one, and never seen one mullered like the one you've shown.

Cheers steptoe


I adjusted the paralever bearings didn't notice any change, still had slight movement at the wheel

As for the ring, fkd I I know how it happened, pulled it apart and there it was

I'll re-shape refit and see if it holds in place on the FD

Thanks mate

 

[hutchy]

Just the other day I managed to bend snapring while changin arm bearings.

I did just dig it out, straightened it and assembled back. And it snapped just OK.
Its made out of quite soft metal.

Thanks Antti

Worked a treat popped it back in cleaned everything up re greased fitted all back together no probs, drive shaft now fitted where is should have been

Bearings looked ok certainly not flat due to their limited movement, cages in tact,


Steptoe/Tim

Rear brake applied paralevers bearings adjusted

Very slight movement 6-12 maybe 0.5mm, 3-9'even less, barely noticeable

For info I greased the bearing and splines torqued the right bearing 150nm, left adjuster 12nm and the locknut 105nm, marked them up for possible movement

Any thoughts? I'm leaning towards new paralever bearings, pure gut instinct is telling me not experience

Regards

H

 

[Timolgra]

12nm is quite high, offhand I think the spec is 9nm back off and retorque to 7nm .......OR tighten it until the play just disappears, but of course if there's wear on the pivots or bearings it throws it all out depending where in the slight range of movement it's been set.

The lock nut and rh pivot bolt should be 160nm for the 1150 GS

 

[hutchy]

12nm is quite high, offhand I think the spec is 9nm back off and retorque to 7nm .......OR tighten it until the play just disappears, but of course if there's wear on the pivots or bearings it throws it all out depending where in the slight range of movement it's been set.

The lock nut and rh pivot bolt should be 160nm for the 1150 GS

You right about the above points so much conflicting info on the web

Lock nut is 160nm, I think 105 is for the 1100

But I've heard more recommendations to put on 10-12 nm on the bearings than the book of 9

To be honest Tim it's still loose, albeit it a very very small amount of play, when I fit new bearings I will use the recommended NM of 9/7

No idea how long the play has been there so bearing are prob goosed, I have OCD so this will bug me no end!!!

Thanks

H

 

[Timolgra]

Hutchy, a small amount of play, as long as it's only in the paralever bearing, isn't the end of the world.

Yes, you may be ready for new bearings but also make sure there's no wear on the pivots themselves.

 

[fatnfast]

Ive just fitted a final drive to my 1100rt and a brand new final drive to my 1150gs.
In both cases I torque the adjustable pin to 10Nm. Ive always used this figure for new/old pivot bearings.
You should have no play at all in either 9-3 or 12-6. When you do the check, watch out that your not picking up movement elsewhere by yanking to hard on the wheel and rocking the bike on its centre stand.

New pivot bearings are easy to fit, I just knock the old ones out, put the outer races of the new ones in the freezer for a few hours and warm the final drive using a hot air gun around the bearing mounts before fitting. 23mm silverline socket (few quid of ebay) makes a perfect driver for them. An old spark plug socket is perfect for getting the old ones out.

Dont for get to 'phase' the drive shaft before slotting it all back together.

Edit: Timolga is right about making sure the actual pins are good as well.

 

[Timolgra]

Dont for get to 'phase' the drive shaft before slotting it all back together.

A 2004 GSA shouldn't need phasing as it has a master spline

 

[hutchy]

Hutchy, a small amount of play, as long as it's only in the paralever bearing, isn't the end of the world.

Yes, you may be ready for new bearings but also make sure there's no wear on the pivots themselves.

Tim pivots themselves looked fine, no polishing or wear anywhere

I will let them roll over next few thou and see how it develops

Thanks for you help mate

 

[hutchy]

A 2004 GSA shouldn't need phasing as it has a master spline

Seen the key on the drive shaft so one less thing to look out for,

Tricky to slot in when splines covered in grease tho

 

[hutchy]

New pivot bearings bought today £38 each

Yes the movement is limited but let's be honest, there should be no movement and there currently is which is just not sitting right with me

10 year old bike, 40k it's time

I don't really want to be 2 days into a euro trip in July and fk about with bearings or the like

I'm also taking a spare crown bearing and seal, just in case it goes and I can't get hold of one immediately

Maybe it's over the top but I want to enjoy the trip and not be held up because I was a lazy bastardo and didn't think to prep the bike properly

Thanks for all the tips, excellent stuff for this GS sprog!

H