Drive shaft U-joint question

lmg said:
I don't think I understood a single part of that statement.

Sent from SYDland...
Click to expand...
Remember the wise words of the late Denis Thatcher:
It is better to keep your mouth shut and be thought an idiot, than to open it and confirm their suspicions.
 
Myke Rocks said:
Remember the wise words of the late Denis Thatcher:
It is better to keep your mouth shut and be thought an idiot, than to open it and confirm their suspicions.
Click to expand...
God forbid someone explains what was actually meant and I learnt something. I was obviously born disabled not knowing everything unlike yourself. Please be patient with us dumbfucks.

Sent from SYDland...
 
Bendy toy said:
He cuts off the old staked grooves, fits a new Hardy Spicer and then create new stakes with a centre pop. The job needs an alignment jig so not really a DIY fix.
Click to expand...

If you have access to a large centre lathe at work and a hydraulic press, it is definitely a DIY job no jig required.
 
lmg said:
God forbid someone explains what was actually meant and I learnt something. I was obviously born disabled not knowing everything unlike yourself. Please be patient with us dumbfucks.

Sent from SYDland...
Click to expand...
OK: You did ask something sensible.
Up until recent years, Hardy Spicer joints were retained in the shafts by 4 circlips, 1 holding in each needle roller assembly.
These were a very reliable and cheap method of assembling the joint, but they also meant that the drive shaft was easily repairable when a needle roller wore out due to brinelling. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brinelling)

This did not suit the drive shaft and motor manufacturers, since it removed the possibility of selling a very expensive drive shaft instead of a cheap Hardy Spicer joint.

They came up with the wheeze of pressing the needle roller assembly into the drive shafts as before, but not having a retaining groove for the circlips.

To keep the joints in place, the metal round it is peened/staked/centre popped to retain the bearing.

Voila! A very difficult to repair shaft, and when it fails, the manufacturer tells you the only safe and recommended route is to replace the entire shaft.

Yes, they can be repaired and re-staked, but the difficulty is that there is no way of knowing that the joint is central on the shaft, so they often vibrate after repair.

Hope this helps.
Myke
 
Coming from the airhead perspective(pre 1996) it looks like little has changed in relation to expensive to replace driveshafts. There is an aftermarket shaft available for airheads which you can easily renew the bearings and shock absorption materials yourself, I wonder if they ever did one for these 1200's?
 
Bendy toy said:
He cuts off the old staked grooves, fits a new Hardy Spicer and then create new stakes with a centre pop. The job needs an alignment jig so not really a DIY fix.
Click to expand...


lmg


"I don't think I understood a single part of that statement."

Myke Rocks

"Remember the wise words of the late Denis Thatcher:
It is better to keep your mouth shut and be thought an idiot, than to open it and confirm their suspicions. "


You clearly did not! If he was an idiot he would have spouted a lot of shite ... which he did not and he made it clear he did not understand what was being said... since when did that ever qualify someone as being an idiot? You on the other hand try to get in a cheap shot and choose to use a totally inappropriate quote to drive home the nail... which of the two is the idiot I ask myself?
 
jwpzx9r said:
lmg


"I don't think I understood a single part of that statement."

Myke Rocks

"Remember the wise words of the late Denis Thatcher:
It is better to keep your mouth shut and be thought an idiot, than to open it and confirm their suspicions. "


You clearly did not! If he was an idiot he would have spouted a lot of shite ... which he did not and he made it clear he did not understand what was being said... since when did that ever qualify someone as being an idiot? You on the other hand try to get in a cheap shot and choose to use a totally inappropriate quote to drive home the nail... which of the two is the idiot I ask myself?
Click to expand...
Suggest you read my post 25 on this thread. It may help you.
 
Myke Rocks said:
OK: You did ask something sensible.
Up until recent years, Hardy Spicer joints were retained in the shafts by 4 circlips, 1 holding in each needle roller assembly.
These were a very reliable and cheap method of assembling the joint, but they also meant that the drive shaft was easily repairable when a needle roller wore out due to brinelling. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brinelling)

This did not suit the drive shaft and motor manufacturers, since it removed the possibility of selling a very expensive drive shaft instead of a cheap Hardy Spicer joint.

They came up with the wheeze of pressing the needle roller assembly into the drive shafts as before, but not having a retaining groove for the circlips.

To keep the joints in place, the metal round it is peened/staked/centre popped to retain the bearing.

Voila! A very difficult to repair shaft, and when it fails, the manufacturer tells you the only safe and recommended route is to replace the entire shaft.

Yes, they can be repaired and re-staked, but the difficulty is that there is no way of knowing that the joint is central on the shaft, so they often vibrate after repair.

Hope this helps.
Myke
Click to expand...

I recon that there is a small chance that the shaft rebuild is being " bigged" up,
If you consider the amount of float on the splines,the chance of having a shaft running without vibes is nil.
All you can do is set the bearing cups to an accurate depth ,with correct end float , :thumb:thumb
 
mikeyboy said:
A word of warning if you decide to do the job for yourself,get the right kit,
The correct type is specifically designed for a stake fitment and is an interference fit.
:D
Click to expand...
Is there a specific brand of UJ replacement components you go for.

Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk
 
mikeyboy said:
If you consider the amount of float on the splines,the chance of having a shaft running without vibes is nil.
All you can do is set the bearing cups to an accurate depth ,with correct end float , :thumb:thumb
Click to expand...

Surely you would be better off mounting the shaft in a 3-jaw chuck of a lathe (possibly by using a split collet) and using a live centre in the tailstock whilst setting the caps to depth before peening/staking ? The only surefire way to keep the shaft components on a common centreline during assembly.
 
It's such a shame the shafts were not built with circlips. But that would cost more money to make and not offer a lucrative spares opportunity. Not that I'm cynical or anything like...
 
Got my repaired drive shaft back today.
Thanks mikeyboy. Superb job.
Thanks very much.
Flo.

Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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