Electrical breakdown - no sparks...

Vulpine2

Vulpine2

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Bike, a recently bought & rather tired 1992 r80gs, died on me as I came to the top of Arthur's Pass (NZ),. Fortunately it was just as I was coming into the village at the top of the pass, as that is the only habitation for miles. Unfortunately it boasts backpacker accomodation and little else - not even a multimeter, let alone a mechanic. Bike turns over, battery healthy & has been charging fine (according to installed voltmeter) just no sparks at the plugs. Wiring under the tank is a rats nest but I've checked what connections I can, inc those to the coil. I know the coil on these bikes has a poor reputation but do they fail quite so suddenly, without any warning? Feels more like a failure on hhe LT side, ignition wiring maybe? Suggestions please? Ta, Rob
 
Vulpine2 said:
Bike, a recently bought & rather tired 1992 r80gs, died on me as I came to the top of Arthur's Pass (NZ),. Fortunately it was just as I was coming into the village at the top of the pass, as that is the only habitation for miles. Unfortunately it boasts backpacker accomodation and little else - not even a multimeter, let alone a mechanic. Bike turns over, battery healthy & has been charging fine (according to installed voltmeter) just no sparks at the plugs. Wiring under the tank is a rats nest but I've checked what connections I can, inc those to the coil. I know the coil on these bikes has a poor reputation but do they fail quite so suddenly, without any warning? Feels more like a failure on hhe LT side, ignition wiring maybe? Suggestions please? Ta, Rob
Click to expand...
Rob, check sidestand switch and clutch lever switch if fitted. Failing that pay my airfare and I’ll bring a bag of tools!
Good luck.
Paul.
 
Take out spark plug, and ground plug on head. Turn on ignition, and flick the kill switch on and off
Watch for sparks as you flick the kill switch.
If t does spark when you do this it’s your hall effect sensor that’s died.
Only fix is a replacement, or fit wedgetail electronic ignition ( other models of elec ignition are available)

Check fuses are okay, and seated properly…. Could be something this simple.
Check connectors under tank, especially those which go towards front of bike…. If these become separated it can kill the bike ( I had this on my ST…. Cleaned connectors and refitted…all okay)

Check battery terminals are tight.
 
Bubb said:
Take out spark plug, and ground plug on head. Turn on ignition, and flick the kill switch on and off
Watch for sparks as you flick the kill switch.
If t does spark when you do this it’s your hall effect sensor that’s died.
Only fix is a replacement, or fit wedgetail electronic ignition ( other models of elec ignition are available)

Check fuses are okay, and seated properly…. Could be something this simple.
Check connectors under tank, especially those which go towards front of bike…. If these become separated it can kill the bike ( I had this on my ST…. Cleaned connectors and refitted…all okay)

Check battery terminals are tight.
Click to expand...
Bubb’s suggestions are very valid. I’ve had both, especially the fuse.
 
You can use a bulb to check for 12V at the input to the coil when you switch the ignition on. Use an indicator bulb. You can check the kill switch that way, too.

None of that circuit should have a fuse on it. However, if you have had ignition modifications in the past some people do add fuses.
 
Done the bean can check, no sparks. Battery connection, fuses and those connectors I can reach already checked. Unfortunately it's the 1990> half fairing version so there may be ones I can't get to without stripping half the bike off. Will check the coil input & kill switch when I can find a length of wire. I suspect coil but it was like I'd flicked the kill switch - no warning whatsoever.
 
Unable to check kill switch or the coil input, bike now recovered to a workshop in Christchurch. Just hoping it's nothing that requires parts, tricky to get hold of in NZ. (When we were dropping the bike at the workshop I was approached by an r80 owner who asked me where I got parts. Ironic or what? I was able to give him a list of the usual suspects.) Will be adding a length of wire to my toolkit.
 
It may be the small ignition amplifier unit that sits under the tank near the regulator.
I’ve had a few bikes come in where that has failed .,
 
I've had a couple of coils fail, but as you allude to they degraded over time (weather-dependent!) rather than kissing out suddenly.

2 coils represent a poor sample size though, I realise.
 
I've had two coils suddenly fail, but it's pretty obvious when they do go. Big cracks appear in the side. One of them actually caught fire and melted.
 
Thanks for the info & suggestions chaps. Workshop diagnosed bean can failure. Fortunately I have a Wedgetail unit available, one that was destined for a bike in the UK That, plus a MOSFET rectifier in case of diode/regulator issues, have supposedly been couriered overnight to Christchurch. I say 'supposedly' as it's late afternoon now, tracking hasn't been updated since patcel was collected yesterday morning & it certainly hasn't arrived at the workshop. Suspect I'm not travelling today... Adventure biking, wot larks
 
I’m glad it has been diagnosed. Let’s hope that fixes it and you can get on your way.

On the positive side, those are probably both decent upgrades that will be really robust going forward.
 
The Other PaulG said:
I’m glad it has been diagnosed. Let’s hope that fixes it and you can get on your way.

On the positive side, those are probably both decent upgrades that will be really robust going forward.
Click to expand...

If your riding off grid or places were spares are scarce I’d fit the old BMW points in a bean can ignition.
:D
 
Bubb for the win… diagnosed from the uk to South Island New Zealand!
Glad you know what the problem was, and can get it fixed and back on the road …

Ride safe. You live in a gorgeous country…. I would love to return to visit NZ….. and bring an airhead of my own to ride there!
 
Bubb said:
Bubb for the win… diagnosed from the uk to South Island New Zealand!
Glad you know what the problem was, and can get it fixed and back on the road …

Ride safe. You live in a gorgeous country…. I would love to return to visit NZ….. and bring an airhead of my own to ride there!
Click to expand...
I live in the UK Bubb but am lucky enough to keep an airhead gs here in NZ for when I visit family, most of whom have moved here. Getting spares locally at short notice is an issue but I tend to bring a few bits over with me when I come and getting stuff shipped from abroad is no problem, just time consuming. This particular gs was bought at short notice before my trip, serviced but not completely gone through. It will now be getting new coil, HT leads & that reg/rectifier as a minimum. And brakes that work… On the upside, I had some great rides (Lewis Pass, Motueka Valley, Takaka Hill as well as half of Arthur’s Pass - twice (once with a trailer…). I did extensive pie research (Kiwis love a hot pie) And I have a new best mate (owner of said trailer who did a 250 mile round trip to get me to Christchurch. NZ can be pretty remote…).
 
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Airheads can be made to brake well.
My ST g/s hybrid has a good front brake, thanks to paralever bigger disk (265mm.) stainless braided hose, and most importantly, a r1150gs four piston brake caliper ( machined to fit by mikeyboy…..thanks Mikey)

Or you can go down the twin disc route, or the big brake disc rotor….. spend enough money and time, and you can have a decent front brake on any airhead.

It’s all a matter of how far you want to go ( or not go after you hit the brakes!)
Paul…. Maybe you should try my ST brakes….
 
Bubb said:
stainless braided hose, and most importantly, a r1150gs four piston brake caliper
Click to expand...
Already done much playing about with airhead gs brakes. This bike came with the stainless/machined caliper set up & got a fluid change before I set off. Better than standard but I still find it underwhelming on what is a heavy - and heavily laden - bike. There was a cast iron disc came with it - no idea why it wasn’t fitted - so I m going to try that together with a new Brembo P4 caliper (40mm mount, as used on mid 90s Ducatis). And there’s always the 300/320mm disc option
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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