Enginge Oil - Am I getting tight?

[bobsayshello]

I normally go for Castrol GTX 20w-50 or Silkoline 20/50

I was at a motor factors yesterday and the very nice chappy at the counter told me to go for Duckhams 20w-50 Classic Engine oil as it was a whopping third of the price of the known brands but was in all reality absolutely identical to Castrol GTX 20w-50.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/22468880@N08/2446016052/


Being a tight-wad I went for el cheapo Duckhams!! Now thing is, it has been sitting on my desk all morning because I cant get it out of my head that something bad will happen to my engine because I went for the cheapo brand.

So question is this -

Having I been penny wise and pound foolish (eg am a tight arse and should always go the well known brand with reputation)

or

Am I rising above all the advertising spin and markup of the well known brands?

I know there is loads on the forum about oil but its not that easy to get a straight forward answer.

Thanks

Bob

 

[D6]

if you buy a better brand, it works out a few pounds more a year

 

[st247]

You'll be fine so long as it meets the required API classification (sf or above i think),in fact you'll probably be fine anyway. Have a look at this thread Oil by Wapping.

For the record i'm using Miller classic 20/50. Probably cheaper than the duckhams - Linky

 

[Steptoe]

This is in the wrong forum.

 

[D6]

This is in the wrong forum.

your right

 

[Greg Masters]

I was at a motor factors yesterday and the very nice chappy at the counter told me to go for Duckhams 20w-50 Classic Engine oil as it was a whopping third of the price of the known brands but was in all reality absolutely identical to Castrol GTX 20w-50.

Bob

I believe that you'd save a bit more if you filled your bike engine with porridge or tomato soup.

The only problem is that neither porridge nor tomato soup have the lubrication properties specified by your bike's maker. But then neither does Duckhams 20w-50.

Do whatever you think is best.

Greg

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

surely this will clear up all those questions once and for all....

http://www.realclassic.co.uk/techfiles/oil030319.html

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

 

[motobiker]

that Duckhams is a bit pricey innit?? is that cause the API spec in it is obsolete?

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

I believe that you'd save a bit more if you filled your bike engine with porridge or tomato soup.

The only problem is that neither porridge nor tomato soup have the lubrication properties specified by your bike's maker. But then neither does Duckhams 20w-50.

Do whatever you think is best.

Greg

Why do you not like duckhams oil ??

http://www.ianbyrne.free-online.co.uk/duckhams.htm

'In 1969 Duckhams was bought by BP and the name remains in use as BP's secondary brand of oil, although ExxonMobil now own the rights to the name for certain industrial lubricants.'

 

[motobiker]

Why do you not like duckhams oil ??

http://www.ianbyrne.free-online.co.uk/duckhams.htm

Possibly because... looking at the link you posted above martin (the carbibles one)
Duckhmas is API SF which according to your link is an obsolete spec for model year 1988 and older engines.... The OP owns a 1200GS

I could be wrong though.

I use a mineral API SJ 15w/40 which is just over half the price of that Duckhams - though i change the oil every 3,000 miles, and filter every 6,000.

 

[Greg Masters]

I could be wrong though.

You're not wrong.

I have nothing against Duckhams oils - I used to use Duckhams R when I raced (very few people even know that Duckhams made such an oil!!). What I really don't understand is why people use out-of-spec oils when the correct stuff can usually be found on shelves.



Greg

 

[cookie]

is the duckhams out of spec? it's API SF, so that's in spec isn't it?

i don't seem to have the enthusiasm to seek out the manual again.

 

[buellbeast]

As quoted from my 2007 manual...

Oil Grades
Engne oils of API classification SF or better

 

[Greg Masters]

As quoted from my 2007 manual...

Oil Grades
Engne oils of API classification SF or better

OK, OK, I concede that the Duckhams Classic is in spec.

However, API SF has been an obsolete standard for some time now (see here) and there are much better oils readily available.

I don't know how much a new BMW engine is, but it's much more than can be saved by using low-spec oils.

Use the best oil you can afford is my advice.

Greg

 

[jefformston]

I normally go for Castrol GTX 20w-50 or Silkoline 20/50

I was at a motor factors yesterday and the very nice chappy at the counter told me to go for Duckhams 20w-50 Classic Engine oil as it was a whopping third of the price of the known brands but was in all reality absolutely identical to Castrol GTX 20w-50.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/22468880@N08/2446016052/


Being a tight-wad I went for el cheapo Duckhams!! Now thing is, it has been sitting on my desk all morning because I cant get it out of my head that something bad will happen to my engine because I went for the cheapo brand.

So question is this -

Having I been penny wise and pound foolish (eg am a tight arse and should always go the well known brand with reputation)

or

Am I rising above all the advertising spin and markup of the well known brands?

I know there is loads on the forum about oil but its not that easy to get a straight forward answer.

Thanks

Bob

Since when has Duckams not been a well known brand? Its; been around for years and on days gone by before all these 'fancy' oils with high price tags came on the market Duckams 'Q' was the market leader along side Catrol GTX. You've nothing to worry about

 

[cookie]

OK, OK, I concede that the Duckhams Classic is in spec.

However, API SF has been an obsolete standard for some time now (see here) and there are much better oils readily available.

I don't know how much a new BMW engine is, but it's much more than can be saved by using low-spec oils.

Use the best oil you can afford is my advice.

Greg

once again i feel compelled to ask, if high priced synthetic is so important, where is the evidence of prematurely worn out engines that run on more prosaic mineral oil?
strikes me that most modern engines don't really wear out at all

 

[Slowdown]

once again i feel compelled to ask, if high priced synthetic is so important, where is the evidence of prematurely worn out engines that run on more prosaic mineral oil?
strikes me that most modern engines don't really wear out at all

And as I think Steptoe said elsewhere - who on this forum is going to put enough mileage on their bike to ever notice?

 

[Flipfly]

Just change it more often

I prefer to run a cheaper oil and change every 3k than pay alot and change at 6k, much better to have fresh cheap oil IMHO as long as it's the right grade and spec.

 

[cookie]

Just change it more often

I prefer to run a cheaper oil and change every 3k than pay alot and change at 6k, much better to have fresh cheap oil IMHO as long as it's the right grade and spec.

this regime has the bonus of removing the contaminants suspended in the old oil too

 

[bobsayshello]

I believe that you'd save a bit more if you filled your bike engine with porridge or tomato soup.

The only problem is that neither porridge nor tomato soup have the lubrication properties specified by your bike's maker. But then neither does Duckhams 20w-50.

Do whatever you think is best.

Greg

Steptoe - Apologies - I thought I had posted this in the Technical section (but could be wrong - I have only posted a couple of new threads since joining)

Thanks for the help everybody. I did do a search and did read all the post but ended up getting ever more confused. I think ill go along with the 'cheap but often' school of thought.

and Greg .. that really was a load of old bollocks you posted I bought 20x-50 because that is the spec recommended in the owners handbook (so you know what you can do with your porridge and tomato soup ) x still love you mind ;-