EWS non starter

[DrFarkoff]

Yes it does

Double check if you can get the part but Undo the rear plastics and unplug the alarm and get the alarm system Lock out plug from BMW and fit it ("Sometimes" Just unplugging the alarm was enough to reboot the comms Alarm left disconnected )

I had this with a load of bikes the internal battery had given up and the unit would not comms due to corrosion

 

[botus]

When diagnosing computerized machinery, keep in mind what the warning light tells you.
An EWS warning light claims no signal from Ring Antenna.
Fair enough. But then the diagnostics goes on to tell you: No connection from the controller. Meaning the controller is either busted or not getting power. And this is the very same controller that controls the EWS antenna. Hence the lack of an internal "EWS OK" signal from the controller is caused by a controller issue, not an antenna issue. After all, the EWS warning is set up in such a way that the warning is lit up until the controller confirms it's ok.

I just put a Ring antenna on my bike - thought I give quick heads up - the ring antenna is 44 quid from you main BMW dealer and according to them makes the fuel strip look reliable...

To fit the new part, the ring antenna lifts off over the top of the ignition switch - so you need to remove the whole ignition switch / ring antenna from the top yoke from down below - its held on with two stupid security bolts (and if you want to do this the BMW way you need to buy two new bolts from the dealer with the antenna and the special BM tool (No 510531) to do them up - you don't want these bolts as its no longer a side of the road repair - if anyone can find and get at these they'll be stealing the bike anyway

BMW instructions say to drill a 4.5m pilot hole 6mm deep then use an 8.5 mm drill so the bolt head falls off, and after dropping out the switch, extract the two bolt studs (ignore BMW...)

these days you can buy drill bits with the 1/4 hex shank like the screw driver tips use - buy a 5mm one from screwfix, and also buy a sacrificial T25 torx driver bit and a 6" long screw driver tip extension bit for your drill - and get two 8mm x 30mm cap head bolts. Other stuff a hammer, a magnet on a stick and for good measure some masking tape to hold rubbish back / protect the bottom fork tubes).

1) Up top - pop off the two tiny torx bolts nearest the cluster and get the plastic trim cover from the base of the ignition switch and remove the pair of wiring connections and get them tied out of the way
2) Now down below looking up get your magnet somewhere up in the gods near the bolt head and tape it from falling out. Forget a center punch - the soft strange security bolts have a hole that centers the drill for the thieves to take you bike anyway. Now using the screw driver tip extension and the strange drill bit, a battery operated drill fits quite nicely just off the mudguard and drill a 5mm x 5mm deep hole in the center of each of the two bolts, (trying to use a conventional short drill bit will likely have you trashing brake and clutch hoses doing looms and swearing a lot)
3) get your sacrificial T25 1/4" tip and place in the 6" driver extension - now reach up with a hammer and tap the torx bit into the soft bolt head - they are going to be about 20lb ft tight and the loctite makes them tight all the way out
4) with the bolts out the ignition switch can be wiggled past all the detritus around the headstock. On the bench its obvious a little persuasion with a small pick will allow you to unclip the ring antenna from the switch
5) clip on the new antenna, wiggle the switch back up ensuring nothing is trapped - with BMW even using nice washers to go with your smaller headed cap heads


round of applause to Steptoe for his torx driver top tip... (obviously a few cable ties to get at the part need to be removed and replaced afterwards)

 

[landmarkjohn]

A timely thread revival, this bike is still in my SIL garage, with no progress.

But spring is here and it is starting to warm up a bit so hopefully some news in the coming weeks

 

[knutk]

And 'old' post indeed, but appearently still valid....

Seems like OP is running low on options.

As for the BMS not responding, there are really only two options:
1: Power to BMS interrupted for some reason.
2: BMS is busted.

It's hard to pick the correct option from internet.
However, OP asked in one of the earlier posts if there is an easy way to confirm whether the BMS is working or not.

There is no easy solution beyond what has been suggested allready. But I will suggest what at best may be regarded as a longshot:

Take a look at this picture of part of the R1200 GS Schematics.

First a bit of educated guesswork:
Main power to the BMS is fed from a direct connection to the battery. But in order to not drain the battery, there must be a built in relay that is controlled with power from the ignition switch. I assume this relay will connect as soon as igniton is turned on, regardless of a faulty ECU inside the BMS, as the ECU will only be powered after the relay has been activated.

Looking at the schematics, for some reason that I am not able to explaine, the BMS feeds the right signal light switch, controlled from the right multifunction switch on the right handlebar. The left handlebar multifunction switch is controlled exlusively from the ZFE (The only explanation I may think of is the German vehicles having a feature where the left signal indicator may be turned on even when the vehicle has been stopped as some sort of emergency light).

Anyway, if we luck out, this power, being a dumb 5V signal may be working directly from the BMS voltage regulator powered via the internal relay, even if the internal ECU is busted.
Hence, by turning on ignition and activate the RH turnsignal and operating the Signal Cancel switch as well, a functioning RH turnsignal will only be working if all the powerleads to the BMS are working, thus this will show that the BMS is powered, yet not working.

On the other hand, if the RH signal does not work does not necessarely mean that the BMS is busted, since my hypothese is an assumption only, thus further search for faults is required...

 

[landmarkjohn]

@knutk et al, thanks for the time and effort. I will report back. Sometime.

 

[Santa-2512]

And 'old' post indeed, but appearently still valid....

Seems like OP is running low on options.

As for the BMS not responding, there are really only two options:
1: Power to BMS interrupted for some reason.
2: BMS is busted.

It's hard to pick the correct option from internet.
However, OP asked in one of the earlier posts if there is an easy way to confirm whether the BMS is working or not.

There is no easy solution beyond what has been suggested allready. But I will suggest what at best may be regarded as a longshot:

Take a look at this picture of part of the R1200 GS Schematics.

First a bit of educated guesswork:
Main power to the BMS is fed from a direct connection to the battery. But in order to not drain the battery, there must be a built in relay that is controlled with power from the ignition switch. I assume this relay will connect as soon as igniton is turned on, regardless of a faulty ECU inside the BMS, as the ECU will only be powered after the relay has been activated.

Looking at the schematics, for some reason that I am not able to explaine, the BMS feeds the right signal light switch, controlled from the right multifunction switch on the right handlebar. The left handlebar multifunction switch is controlled exlusively from the ZFE (The only explanation I may think of is the German vehicles having a feature where the left signal indicator may be turned on even when the vehicle has been stopped as some sort of emergency light).

Anyway, if we luck out, this power, being a dumb 5V signal may be working directly from the BMS voltage regulator powered via the internal relay, even if the internal ECU is busted.
Hence, by turning on ignition and activate the RH turnsignal and operating the Signal Cancel switch as well, a functioning RH turnsignal will only be working if all the powerleads to the BMS are working, thus this will show that the BMS is powered, yet not working.

On the other hand, if the RH signal does not work does not necessarely mean that the BMS is busted, since my hypothese is an assumption only, thus further search for faults is required...

Dont know what that diagram is from, but it does not appear to be from the GS

according to the diagram i have, all that comes of the Ecu, is the two brake switches, power in / out and the can bus loop cables.

Also doing some digging, the key data may not be in the BMSk module, it depends on what model and the key amongst other things

If a BMSKP module is fitted then the key data is in there, however if a BMSX module is fitted, you will need to check the key barrel to see where the key data is stored

 

[knutk]

Dont know what that diagram is from, but it does not appear to be from the GS

It is.

according to the diagram i have, all that comes of the Ecu, is the two brake switches, power in / out and the can bus loop cables.

Much more than that. Injectors, sparkplugs, switches etc... Counted a total of 28 items...
etc

Also doing some digging, the key data may not be in the BMSk module, it depends on what model and the key amongst other things

According to RealOem, alle the R1200 GS models, from 2004 up to and including 2012 share the same BMS K partnumber

 

[hadis]

Did you ever solved this. I also have same problem.

No N light, EWS! on display.

Yesterday after turning ignition off-on I started it but it shut down while driving.

Could this be problem with ecu itseld or something else?

 

[landmarkjohn]

Did you ever solved this. I also have same problem.

No N light, EWS! on display.

Yesterday after turning ignition off-on I started it but it shut down while driving.

Could this be problem with ecu itseld or something else?

No, I never progressed any further... YET!
In my head my problem is either an issue with the 4 wires from ring antenna to ECU or ECU. I need to rig a bulb in series and perform a voltage drop test on these 4 wires.
If my voltage drop test is satisfactory I think I could be looking at ECU.
ECU failure seems to be rare, I only found one on these pages.
In your case if not already done I think I would start with the bar wiggle as previously mentioned and then ring antenna. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[hadis]

No, I never progressed any further... YET!
In my head my problem is either an issue with the 4 wires from ring antenna to ECU or ECU. I need to rig a bulb in series and perform a voltage drop test on these 4 wires.
If my voltage drop test is satisfactory I think I could be looking at ECU.
ECU failure seems to be rare, I only found one on these pages.
In your case if not already done I think I would start with the bar wiggle as previously mentioned and then ring antenna. Good luck and keep us posted.

I just checked on my friend’s GS when we disconnect antenna N is still green and lights are off. That is not case on my gs. I also think that is or some signal wires that turns on ecu or ecu itself.

 

[landmarkjohn]

@knutk et al, thanks for the time and effort. I will report back. Sometime.

As promised and to confirm; my fault was bad ECU (BMSPK) and repaired by ECU.de no affiliation.